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Need a granny ....


ChrisF

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Posted

Thanks for all the feedback.

 

 

 

Was back at Meerendal this morning.  Deliberately played with the gearing on 1 or 2 of the steeper sections.  With the 22-40 at a cadence of 95 to a 100 I am doing just over 7km/h.

 

And yes, dropping below 6km/h on stairway-to-heaven it becomes tricky to stick to the trail ... front tends to wonder.

 

 

Approaching a hill I get my cadence towards 90, and then step up the gears as my knees strain.  Happy to say that with most hills I do get to the top without needed the 40.  Think there were only three short sections I needed it, the rest I have 2 or even 3 gears left at the top.  Just Dorstberg that gets the better of me - FOR NOW ....

 

 

PS - doing a ride with high cadence climbs saves my knees, but I can feel how it works the muscles in my upper legs ... :) 

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Posted

Thanks for all the feedback.

 

 

 

Was back at Meerendal this morning. Deliberately played with the gearing on 1 or 2 of the steeper sections. With the 22-40 at a cadence of 95 to a 100 I am doing just over 7km/h.

 

And yes, dropping below 6km/h on stairway-to-heaven it becomes tricky to stick to the trail ... front tends to wonder.

 

 

Approaching a hill I get my cadence towards 90, and then step up the gears as my knees strain. Happy to say that with most hills I do get to the top without needed the 40. Think there were only three short sections I needed it, the rest I have 2 or even 3 gears left at the top. Just Dorstberg that gets the better of me - FOR NOW ....

 

 

PS - doing a ride with high cadence climbs saves my knees, but I can feel how it works the muscles in my upper legs ... :)

There comes a time in our lives when we just have to accept that we are going to have to walk. Even as a small older oke. I've come to the realisation that walking is faster than granny gear, and uses diff muscles, so I accept that as part of my riding strategy.

Not the answer that you want to hear, sorry.

Posted

Was also keen at one point to get an easier granny but then realised if I go any slower than I currently do up hills I will simply keel over. There comes a point where it is just easier and faster to push. Also gives a bit of rest to the quads...

Posted

There comes a time in our lives when we just have to accept that we are going to have to walk. Even as a small older oke. I've come to the realisation that walking is faster than granny gear, and uses diff muscles, so I accept that as part of my riding strategy.

Not the answer that you want to hear, sorry.

 

At the moment I cycle, then walk a bit, then get home and jump in the pool ... so I am actually doing a micro-ironman ....   :devil:

 

 

all said and done ... once, just once I would love to cycle up Dorstberg under my own power, no ebike, no walking .... Hey, if nothing else, it is a motivation to keep on pushing my limits.  :thumbup:

Posted

At the moment I cycle, then walk a bit, then get home and jump in the pool ... so I am actually doing a micro-ironman .... [emoji317]

 

 

all said and done ... once, just once I would love to cycle up Dorstberg under my own power, no ebike, no walking .... Hey, if nothing else, it is a motivation to keep on pushing my limits. [emoji106]

Me too[emoji23][emoji23]

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Posted

Was also keen at one point to get an easier granny but then realised if I go any slower than I currently do up hills I will simply keel over. There comes a point where it is just easier and faster to push. Also gives a bit of rest to the quads...

 

 

This keeps on popping up in the replies .....

 

 

May just give a 11-42 a try.  Just 5% better climbing, but should not keel over ...  :oops:   Also a LOT cheaper than many of the other options ......  

Posted

The gearing is already good on your bike.

Alternating spinning and mashing works for me on the longer hills. (3 minutes, 2 minutes)

Lock the suspension if it's not too bumpy.

Use Cleats and try to "Pedal in a Circle".

Long Term Develop Core Strength.

Posted

Still learning the ropes after 2 years of falling my ass off.... :w00t:

 

Got a 2x10 with 22 small front and 42 big at the back. Now when I peddle a little hard going uphill the front keeps on popping into a wheelie. (Looks most impressive to see me coming down the trail still stuck to my cleats....)

 

How do I keep the front on the ground???

 

Any advise will be tried (within limits I must say)

Posted

Still learning the ropes after 2 years of falling my ass off.... :w00t:

 

Got a 2x10 with 22 small front and 42 big at the back. Now when I peddle a little hard going uphill the front keeps on popping into a wheelie. (Looks most impressive to see me coming down the trail still stuck to my cleats....)

 

How do I keep the front on the ground???

 

Any advise will be tried (within limits I must say)

Advice I was given was to keep my elbows in and low and sit right on the tip of the saddle, sadly though there are times when 'granny-granny' is not the right gear and too 'easy".

 

Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk

Posted

TREK Fuel EX 5 2017 comes with the following gearing : 2x10, front 36-22, Rear 11-36.

 

I immediately swopped out the rear with an 11-40 cluster.

 

 

I can handle most hills with this gear set - arthritis in the knees, so I often have to resort to the granny and patience to get to the top of a hill.  But the more I ride the better it gets.

 

 

I have tried Dorstberg (Meerendal) a couple of times.  I can handle the first few hundred meters ... then it tilts up a bit and I cant keep my cadence, and wham .... walking ... 

 

 

So now my question(s) - 

 

- what is the largest 10-speed gear that I can get ?  (I do believe that going past a 42-tooth I may need to work on the derailure/hanger)  Not worth going from a 40 to a 42 tooth .....  Looking for 44 or possibly 46 .....

 

- do I have to go 11-speed to get these large discs on the back ?  Apparently it is "possible" to fit an 11-speed cluster on this bike, without doing anything to the rim.  BUT, I would need a new derailure, possibly even a new shifter .....  What about the chain ?  Does this mean the front must also be changed ?

 

 

- frankly, is this a worthwhile exercise ?  

 

- Pro's, Con's ?

 

 

feedback would be much appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

PS - I have searched The Hub, and read various threads.  Learnt a LOT, thanks guys and gals.  Did not find that thread which may answer my question though ....  If it exists, please just direct me in the right direction

 

Have you tried altering your technique? Where is your head relative to the handlebar on the steep sections?

Posted

Have you tried altering your technique? Where is your head relative to the handlebar on the steep sections?

 

I tend to lean forward a bit when peddling harder up a hill.

 

And even with the 22-40 there is that odd pop of the front wheel, so I have to be steady on the peddle and lean forward to keep the front on the ground.

 

Easy enough when going ... but "fun" to get going against a steep incline.

Posted

Advice I was given was to keep my elbows in and low and sit right on the tip of the saddle, sadly though there are times when 'granny-granny' is not the right gear and too 'easy".

 

Sent from my LG-D958 using Tapatalk

 

sometimes typically when I get tired and the hill is not too steep, then it helps to get out the saddle, give it a few hard kicks, get off the granny and keep the cadence up .... if the momentum is there, then it feels easier on the knees, as compared to slowly in the granny gear.

Posted

Okay ....

 

Considered all the options and input.

 

My LBS has ordered an 11-42, 10 speed, should be fitted later this week.  

 

I should soon be able to give feedback on what "5%" extra gear ratio means on steep inclines ....

Posted

Okay ....

 

Considered all the options and input.

 

My LBS has ordered an 11-42, 10 speed, should be fitted later this week.  

 

I should soon be able to give feedback on what "5%" extra gear ratio means on steep inclines ....

I'm assuming you're on 29er

 

22-36 is already quite a low gear.

 

swapping the chainring out for a 20 is probably the easiest. but an 11-42 will do the same thing at the top end but with bigger shifts.

 

good luck.

 

if you're going that slowly uphill, it's a really good idea to work on your balance.

practice track stands

Posted

Okay ....

 

Considered all the options and input.

 

My LBS has ordered an 11-42, 10 speed, should be fitted later this week.  

 

I should soon be able to give feedback on what "5%" extra gear ratio means on steep inclines ....

 

You wont feel much of a difference at all. All it means is that if you are climbing @ 7 km / hr you will now be climbing @ 6,65 Km / hr. The Total effort to climb the whole hill will actually be greater as you will need more revs in total. More Energy will be used up.

A Car Uses more petrol to climb a hill in 1st Gear than if you climb the same hill in 2nd Gear.

Keep your old cassette because as you get "fitter" you might need to go back to it.

The 11-42 Cassette is a nice Cassette for a 10X1 conversion.

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