Tubeless on the road

[Furbz]

Use this.

would be interesting to see what pressures you get. 

my bets are at least 1 bar lower in pressure

https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure

[Jbr]

to me it just shows that the harder doesn't mean the better when it comes to RR, at least not when you ride on *** roads (which is mostly the case when we race around wellington/paarl)

[Jbr]

1 minute ago, Furbz said:

Use this.

would be interesting to see what pressures you get. 

my bets are at least 1 bar lower in pressure

https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure

I don't know the answers to half of the questions, but with random guesses I get less than 5bars recommendations 🤣

[nick_the_wheelbuilder]

3 hours ago, W@nted said:

Hi Nick! Apart from the tape/hole difference, are there any structural differences between normal and tubeless ready rims? Or is it the difference in hook design?

On a hooked rim, are the forces not similar when running tubes vs tubeless?

 

I used a single layer of muc off tubeless tape. After the leak at the bead sealed, had a small leak at the valve. Tightening the valve more seemed to do the trick. Held pressure through the night.

 

Will give feedback after the first ride, been raining…

The rim needs the right "shape" - a deeper valley in the center, and raised "shoulders" on the edges onto which the tyre bead stretches and locks.

The exact circumference of these raised areas is critical. If the circumference is too much, the tyre will stretch too much, damaging the bead and risking the tyre failing and blowing off the rim.

If the bead seat circumference is too small, the tyre won't sit tightly enough, and will easily come unseated during cornering or when there's an impact - also pretty dangerous.

Only use rims for tubeless which are specifically approved for the purpose, by the manufacturer.

[Jono]

1 hour ago, DieselnDust said:

That’s the exact same result I get for a 26mm tyre but I’m running 75psi rear and 70psi front.

i used 82kg for bike +rider+gear.

dt Swiss max recommendation for the spline 1400 wheel is 96psi. Yet they have a rider weight limit of 100kg!!!???

st the end of the day these tools spit out recommendations. I hit a railway line hard yesterday and didn’t damage the rim or tyre but the gsrmin broke off its mount. Tabs are still stuck in the mount. I didn’t damage the wheels so I’m inclined to believe the assumptions in the silca tool are heavily conservative

Pop me a DM if you'd like to repair your Garmin with a part CNC machined in Tokai.

 

 

[DieselnDust]

1 minute ago, Jono said:

Pop me a DM if you'd like to repair your Garmin with a part CNC machined in Tokai.

 

 

Cool let me see what they say about it . If they refuse to warranty it I’ll go the repair route 👍🏼🏆

[W@nted]

Some feedback. Done about 150km on the road since the conversion. Wheels seem to hold pressure very well. Slight top up required every 3 days. Running the 26mm pirellis at 5.2 Bar as per zipp website recommendation.

The ride feels great though, compared to tubes at 7 Bar. Definitely less road vibration on the handles.  It feels like the bike is floating better over rougher patches of tarmac.

 

so far so good, very happy with the conversion.

Edited November 18, 2022 by W@nted

[Dexter-morgan]

1 hour ago, W@nted said:

Some feedback. Done about 150km on the road since the conversion. Wheels seem to hold pressure very well. Slight top up required every 3 days. Running the 26mm pirellis at 5.2 Bar as per zipp website recommendation.

The ride feels great though, compared to tubes at 7 Bar. Definitely less road vibration on the handles.  It feels like the bike is floating better over rougher patches of tarmac.

 

so far so good, very happy with the conversion.

every three days!?

[Furbz]

2 minutes ago, Dexter-morgan said:

every three days!?

i'm hoping he means he pumps them every three days...

[W@nted]

Haha yes apologies, topping them up with air, not sealant.

They lose about 0.5 bar over 3 days.

Edited November 18, 2022 by W@nted

[The Ouzo]

2 hours ago, W@nted said:

top up required every 3 days

I found similar

 

2 hours ago, W@nted said:

floating better over rougher patches of tarmac.

was my initial impressions too.

[dexterdent]

I replaced my GP5000 TL with a GP5000 S TR. It's not cheap. I just could not get a sidewall hole (that I got on the first ride) to plug and remain closed for a reasonable length of time. Tried plugs, inside patches, even superglue but no luck.

The new tyre was pretty tough to get on the rim, but once on, it seated without even needing sealant. I've gone with the muc-off sealant this time on recommendation from my LBS, so lets see if that works better than orangeseal (which is still in my front tyre and working great).

The tubeless conversion in terms of comfort and speed feels significant, so let's hope this one stays good for a while.

[fanievb]

What do you guys use for rimtape? 

(I use gorilla tape on my MTB, but it's too thick for the road bike) 

[warick_wrx]

1 hour ago, fanievb said:

What do you guys use for rimtape? 

(I use gorilla tape on my MTB, but it's too thick for the road bike) 

The yellowish colour tubless specific tape. Unfortunately comes on big rolls around R400 but at least it lasts a while. It's far better than duct tape for both mtb and road. 

Edited February 6, 2023 by warick_wrx

[W@nted]

1 hour ago, fanievb said:

What do you guys use for rimtape? 

(I use gorilla tape on my MTB, but it's too thick for the road bike) 

I used tubeless tape from muc off

[fanievb]

54 minutes ago, warick_wrx said:

The yellowish colour tubless specific tape. Unfortunately comes on big rolls around R400 but at least it lasts a while. It's far better than duct tape for both mtb and road. 

Where did you get it from?