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Tubeless on the road


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Just now, W@nted said:

😂 Busy as I am typing. Sealant in and spinning slowly at low pressure

Low pressure but still seated ? Once the sealant is in you want to hold the wheel horizontal both sides to make sure sealant goes everywhere in the tyre, then it should hold pressure

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44 minutes ago, Jbr said:

Low pressure but still seated ? Once the sealant is in you want to hold the wheel horizontal both sides to make sure sealant goes everywhere in the tyre, then it should hold pressure

Thanks! Enduroseal in, spun the wheels horizontally. All seems good 👍🏻 No more bubbles at the bead.

Pirelli box recommends 6.5 bar for 26mm tire on 19c rim for my weight. Seems a bit high?

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1 minute ago, W@nted said:

Thanks! Enduroseal in, spun the wheels horizontally. All seems good 👍🏻 No more bubbles at the bead.

Pirelli box recommends 6.5 bar for 26mm tire on 19c rim for my weight. Seems a bit high?

I run 6 bars in 25mm and 5.8 in 28mm (gp5000)

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Just to reiterate - on the road you NEED rims and tyres designed for tubeless use, or you risk a major incident. 
 

Almost all new carbon rims are tubeless ready, and most of the big name alloy rims too. 
 

Plastic type thin rim tape is also a must, 2 layers to deal with the higher pressures of road use. 
 

Never use Gorilla tape or duct tape type stuff on road tubeless rims. The tyres fit too tightly and this can compress the rims, causing loss of spoke tension. 

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On 11/5/2022 at 8:23 PM, Jbr said:

I run 6 bars in 25mm and 5.8 in 28mm (gp5000)

Interesting - I'm running my front (GP5000 TL 25mm) at 5 bar on a tandem, so 6 seems high.

The rear runs at 7 bar and isn't tubeless because I have found it starts giving issues at this pressure.

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19 minutes ago, Jbr said:

interesting -

weight distribution on the big bike is probably more like 60:40, and I have no idea how to class Joburg's roads (poor pavement/chipseal?), but I'm running tubeless up front to deal partly with snakebite risk on road holes. So silca.cc is about 0.5bar above where I'm running them for both tyres

Edited by 100Tours
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Very happy with my tubeless. I have -sworks 28 mm and on semi gravel 32 mm  Roubaix with  Roval carbon rims. 
 

First two month each had one punctures. Easly plug and pumped and on my way. About 4 month in the 32mm had another, plug it -18 months later so far so good!!! I say this great caution ⚠️.   


They seem to take time to toughen up! Is that possible ? 
 

They handle very well and are light.
 

My weight+Bike and kit 85 kg -and running 28mm  at 5,5 and 5 back 32mm 3,8,3,5 back. 

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9 hours ago, nick_the_wheelbuilder said:

Just to reiterate - on the road you NEED rims and tyres designed for tubeless use, or you risk a major incident. 
 

Almost all new carbon rims are tubeless ready, and most of the big name alloy rims too. 
 

Plastic type thin rim tape is also a must, 2 layers to deal with the higher pressures of road use. 
 

Never use Gorilla tape or duct tape type stuff on road tubeless rims. The tyres fit too tightly and this can compress the rims, causing loss of spoke tension. 

Hi Nick! Apart from the tape/hole difference, are there any structural differences between normal and tubeless ready rims? Or is it the difference in hook design?

On a hooked rim, are the forces not similar when running tubes vs tubeless?

 

I used a single layer of muc off tubeless tape. After the leak at the bead sealed, had a small leak at the valve. Tightening the valve more seemed to do the trick. Held pressure through the night.

 

Will give feedback after the first ride, been raining…

Edited by W@nted
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43 minutes ago, Furbz said:

Not sure i like this link...

it totally omits the rims inner width which has a huge impact on tire volume.

gave me figures for 28mm higher than max inflation figures for my zipp wheels.

i'd rather use the zipp calculator - seems more comprehensive  

I think measured width is supposed to take care of that. What is the recommendation that you get ? I find it surprising as I used to pump my tires up to 7 bars and only started doing 6 bars after I saw Silca's recommendations (I must say I've had a lot less sealant showers since then as well)

Edited by Jbr
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11 hours ago, Jbr said:

There’s something wrong with this calculator. It’s slots out crazy low pressure for Mtb and too high for road. I agree with Furnz the zipp calculator aligns closer to my real world experiences 

Edited by DieselnDust
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4 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:

There’s something wrong with this calculator. It’s slots out crazy low pressure 

image.png.c06d2945da0eaf4ba99e640fe8873fe1.png

Still seems pretty good to me, at least that's +/- what I use as I tend to aim for 6 bars

Edited by Jbr
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That’s the exact same result I get for a 26mm tyre but I’m running 75psi rear and 70psi front.

i used 82kg for bike +rider+gear.

dt Swiss max recommendation for the spline 1400 wheel is 96psi. Yet they have a rider weight limit of 100kg!!!???

st the end of the day these tools spit out recommendations. I hit a railway line hard yesterday and didn’t damage the rim or tyre but the gsrmin broke off its mount. Tabs are still stuck in the mount. I didn’t damage the wheels so I’m inclined to believe the assumptions in the silca tool are heavily conservative

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