AlanD Posted June 14, 2018 Share All, The time has almost come to replace my cassette and chain as the chain is quite worn (according to the chain wear tool) and the cassette has seen many miles and looking a bit worn. Currently i have a 32t oval with 10-42 cassette and i haven't really needed anything more but have had a few times where i have run shy of gears in terms of getting the speed up on fast flat sections. The hills i have ridden lately are covered adequately with the current setup. I do find myself on the 42t quite a number of times been i have been riding a bit more than usual and wondering if going up to a 34t upfront would make a massive difference. I don't want to be left struggling but at the same time, would like to get a bit stronger. Any suggestions? Is there a large difference between the 32t and 34t? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 14, 2018 Share the difference is 6.25%... Not huge, but you can definitely notice it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted June 14, 2018 Share "going up to a 43t upfront" I assume this is a slight dislexic moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikeisLife Posted June 14, 2018 Share If your cassette is dead why not go up to a 34t oval and get a 11-46 cassette? Therefore more upper and lower end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted June 14, 2018 Share Seriously though this is what makes the range of the SRAM cassettes so great. The 10t makes quite a difference, at 90rpm you would be going +- 4km/h faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 14, 2018 Share If your cassette is dead why not go up to a 34t oval and get a 11-46 cassette? Therefore more upper and lower end.I'd do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lechatnoir Posted June 14, 2018 Share "going up to a 43t upfront" I assume this is a slight dislexic moment. THAT would be noticeable... back to the topic though... https://www.bikemag.com/gear/absoluteblack-launches-spiderless-32t-oval-chainring/ this indicates that a 32t oval ring gives you 34t in the efficient part of your pedal stroke and 30t in the inefficient part (probably why it feels weird). a 34t will push those numbers up (32t, 36t?), so check your frame clearance. What Myles says is right... ~6% because the 30 goes up and the 34 goes up too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popcorn_skollie Posted June 14, 2018 Share If a weekend warrior like myself can survive a 32 with a range of 11-40 (while seriously contemplating a 34) then you should be fine with your lighter granny. Plus your trance probably weighs less too. It will feel like a bit of a mission to begin with but I'm pretty sure you'll get use to it after a ride or two. I'm not even fast. But I run out of gears too. Not often, but there are sections where I wished I had some traction on tap. Just do it. After a couple rides you'll wonder why you even wondered about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted June 14, 2018 Share A 34x11 gives you a speed of 38.5km/h at 90rpm where a 32x10 will give you 39.8km/h at the same cadence. Calculations based on 29er wheels with 2.2 tyres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSG Posted June 14, 2018 Share If a 34T oval doesn't clear, why not use a 34T round? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 14, 2018 Share THAT would be noticeable... back to the topic though... https://www.bikemag.com/gear/absoluteblack-launches-spiderless-32t-oval-chainring/ this indicates that a 32t oval ring gives you 34t in the efficient part of your pedal stroke and 30t in the inefficient part (probably why it feels weird). a 34t will push those numbers up (32t, 36t?), so check your frame clearance. What Myles says is right... ~6% because the 30 goes up and the 34 goes up too.That is, quite frankly, pseudoscientific BS. You're still rotating an ellipse with the same circumference as a normal, round chainring, therefore the effort required is exactly the same. Whether you perceive a difference or not is beside the point. A 34 remains a 34. It may allow you to activate a certain muscle group for more of the rotation than the normal one would, but other than that, tooth count is tooth count. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaco-fiets Posted June 14, 2018 Share If your cassette is dead why not go up to a 34t oval and get a 11-46 cassette? Therefore more upper and lower end. This is what I did a week or 2 ago. Went from 32 round and 10-42 at the back to 34 oval and 11-46 at the back. Well I bought everything but still need to put it on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadenceblur Posted June 14, 2018 Share Did similar, but fitted the E Thirteen 9 - 46. I did this primarily because I was battling to find my sweetspot cadence. I drew up a little spreadsheet detailing the differences between the old set up (11 - 42 with a 32) and the 9 - 46 with a 34.You can clearly see what you're in for. I have been happy with the set up and only use the 46 as a last resort. Had a toughen up a bit though as most of the gears were "harder" with the 34 up front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lechatnoir Posted June 14, 2018 Share That is, quite frankly, pseudoscientific BS. You're still rotating an ellipse with the same circumference as a normal, round chainring, therefore the effort required is exactly the same. Whether you perceive a difference or not is beside the point. A 34 remains a 34. It may allow you to activate a certain muscle group for more of the rotation than the normal one would, but other than that, tooth count is tooth count. how so myles? remember, you don't pedal an ellipse, you pedal a circle... (these are ellipses). If power is constant throughout the 360 deg (it isn't) the torque (is that the correct term?) exerted on the chain will remain constant using a circular chainring. If the chainring is elliptical, and all else is equal, surely (don't mind if i call you surely) the torque (?) on the chain will vary? i'm asking. if my thinking's wrong, educate me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaynejG Posted June 14, 2018 Share Did similar, but fitted the E Thirteen 9 - 46. I did this primarily because I was battling to find my sweetspot cadence. I drew up a little spreadsheet detailing the differences between the old set up (11 - 42 with a 32) and the 9 - 46 with a 34.You can clearly see what you're in for. I have been happy with the set up and only use the 46 as a last resort. Had a toughen up a bit though as most of the gears were "harder" with the 34 up front. Would it be possible for a copy of the spreadsheet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadenceblur Posted June 14, 2018 Share Did similar, but fitted the E Thirteen 9 - 46. I did this primarily because I was battling to find my sweetspot cadence. I drew up a little spreadsheet detailing the differences between the old set up (11 - 42 with a 32) and the 9 - 46 with a 34.You can clearly see what you're in for. I have been happy with the set up and only use the 46 as a last resort. Had a toughen up a bit though as most of the gears were "harder" with the 34 up front. Would it be possible for a copy of the spreadsheet? sure, send me a mail to cadenceblur@gmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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