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MTB Disk Brake shudder/ vibrations at very low speed


Matuka

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Posted

 Have you made sure the caliper is tight.?

 

This is a good point and maybe I should have mentioned. The vibration has been there for a awhile but on one ride it got really bad and I checked the caliper and it had come loose. I tightened it immediately thinking that was the issue but the vibration persisted. I dont know if a loose caliper could have damaged the rotor in some way? It couldnt have been loose for long as I check it quite regularly. The rotor looks fine and straight to my untrained eye though. 

Posted

Quick put your flame suit on!!!

 

I have some second hand shimano 2004 or 2005 XTR STI mtb brakes (complete set) looking for a home.

You just need to arrange and pay for the shipping.

I could be persuaded to include the bike they are attached to as well..... old S Works Epic.

 

 

Flippy Shifters???!! Those are my favourite in like ForrrrrEverrrrrrrr :drool:

Posted

Flippy Shifters???!! Those are my favourite in like ForrrrrEverrrrrrrr :drool:

Yeah ahead of their time they were!

Wonder how long it will take the marketing “agents” (said with a julius malema accent) to reinvent them.

Posted

OP, did you replace pads or just sand them? Sanding, baking and setting on fire occasionally work for contamination, but in my experience only about half the time. The rest of the time they're properly oily and need replacing, despite what 900 Youtube mechanics will have you believe.

 

If you replace pads and clean the rotor with IPA (Isopropanol, not beer...) and the squealing persists, it's highly possible, as others have said, that the sound wave has been worn into the rotor and you'll have to replace that too. Or, at the very least, sand it down on a belt sander or similar.

 

Good luck, squeaky brakes are a pain in the scrotum.

Posted

OP, did you replace pads or just sand them? Sanding, baking and setting on fire occasionally work for contamination, but in my experience only about half the time. The rest of the time they're properly oily and need replacing, despite what 900 Youtube mechanics will have you believe.

 

If you replace pads and clean the rotor with IPA (Isopropanol, not beer...) and the squealing persists, it's highly possible, as others have said, that the sound wave has been worn into the rotor and you'll have to replace that too. Or, at the very least, sand it down on a belt sander or similar.

 

Good luck, squeaky brakes are a pain in the scrotum.

'About half the time' ...jeez you are a lot luckier than I have been!
Posted

'About half the time' ...jeez you are a lot luckier than I have been!

 

Or more optimistic. Haven't done it in a while, nearly set my workbench on fire the last time so canned the idea.

Posted

OP, did you replace pads or just sand them? Sanding, baking and setting on fire occasionally work for contamination, but in my experience only about half the time. The rest of the time they're properly oily and need replacing, despite what 900 Youtube mechanics will have you believe.

 

If you replace pads and clean the rotor with IPA (Isopropanol, not beer...) and the squealing persists, it's highly possible, as others have said, that the sound wave has been worn into the rotor and you'll have to replace that too. Or, at the very least, sand it down on a belt sander or similar.

 

Good luck, squeaky brakes are a pain in the scrotum.

 

 

Just sanded them. Youtube said it would work! Very good point though thanks I'm going to replace them this weekend. Thanks!

Posted

With disc brakes i always refer back to disc brakes on performance cars . I drive a Chev Lumina SS which has more than enough power but the stock brakes ( rotors and pads ) are below par . At 10;000 km+- i was traveling at well over 220kph and had to brake hard down to below 100kph twice in within seconds of one another . The very next normal braking i did then produced a shudder . I then stripped the front brakes and noticed the rotors had bluish burn marks as well as hairline cracks in them . The pads had much the same look . I then talked to Power Brake about upgrading to better brake kit and explained what had happened . Their technical manager explained it . The stock rotors and pads are not designed for high speed braking continually and because of the heat build up in the rotors the metal actually changes consistency and you get the cracks  This is exactly what will happen to entry level brake sets and result in shuddering . Change the rotors and pads it wont be the calipers . Never sand rotors on water paper them using a flat surface to work the rotor up and down on . Dont use a machine like belt or orbital sander .The slightest imperfection left will result in shuddering .

Posted

Just sanded them. Youtube said it would work! Very good point though thanks I'm going to replace them this weekend. Thanks!

 

Pootube is called pootube for a reason...

 

parktool.com is a great starting point for DIY mechanic advice.

Posted

The only way to clean up a scorer rotor is to grind it flat with a precision grinder. far cheaper to replace with a new set. They don’t last forever unfortunately. Metal pads accelerate the rotor wear but can absorb more force.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Belated follow up. I have (touch wood) fixed the squeak by doing all of the following.

Replacing a broken spoke (no idea how I didnt notice that). 

Replacing the disk rotor and pads.

Resetting the calipers a few times.

Burping the brakes with the flick technique shown here. 

 

Nothing to do with the squeak but helped to firm up the brakes. 

 

Now there's just a lovely hiss when I brake. Long may it last. Thanks from all the advice!

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