thebob Posted September 25, 2018 Share Thank you for the tip. now to youtube the how-to of this .... Very easy! First, get hold of a 26mm impact driver socket (example in link below) and take it to an engineering shop for them to remove the chamfer so the socket engages the top cap properly. You must do this or you will ruin the top cap! A friend did this for me, I'll post a pic later! 1. Remove cap2. Check original air pressure and then let out all the air3. Unscrew top cap4. Remove volume spacer5. Reinstall top cap6. Reinflate air spring to original pressure. (i do this in 40PSI increments, equalising the fork every time) Fox instructions:https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=614 Socket:http://www.forcetools.co.za/12-drive/576-12-6pt-impact-socket-26.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted September 25, 2018 Share THANX ! Did you remove one or two of the volume spacers ? (I see in the instruction they remove two) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebob Posted September 25, 2018 Share THANX ! Did you remove one or two of the volume spacers ? (I see in the instruction they remove two) I just took one out and it works for me. I'm around 82kg in full gear and run 100PSI in the fork to get 25% sag. With the stock number of spacers I wasn't using around 40mm of the fork's travel. With the one spacer removed I'm around 15mm short of full travel, but comfort is much improved. Best thing is it is a free mod and you can experiment to find what works for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted September 25, 2018 Share ..... Time to ask Spez to order in a pair of 2FO's for me. ... WOW ! I can see why the Spez owners love their stores ! I have popped in at Tygerberg cycles a few times over the last two years. Each time the service is excellent. They really put in some effort today. Made SURE which shoe fits me ... Euro size 48 They will now try to source a set of 2FO Flats locally, failing which they do have some on order. THANKS to the staff at Tygerberg Cycles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted September 25, 2018 Share Feedback on the Spark 940 - Saturday's ride just did not "gel" .... trying new shoes with 8mm thinner soles messed with my setup, and just could not get comfortable on the trail .... Monday morning was a whole different story !! Saddle set at the correct height for the Scott shoes, front shock pressure dropped just a tad to soften the feel up front, tire pressures just right, weather perfect. And so we set of on our ride. Everything just "clicked" ... I was pumping out a steady pace on the level sections, a good 6km/h more than my normal, without straining. Hills are hills .... but I managed to at least keep my pace. Downhills the setup tweaks helped and I could go just that tadd faster .... Actually did a second run of most of the trail, and still clocked in 1,6km/h faster than my previous average time. only issues :- the Spark is much more prone to pedal strikes than the Trek ! Need to be more alert for this ..- the dropper post is NICE, but also a dangerous item ! So nice to drop the saddle and zoot down the single tracks ... BUT, better be sure to raise the saddle on the level .... not good for the knees to power along on a lowered saddle ... okay, user issue ! Already went a lot better today. Yes this is a knock on effect of having a lower bottom bracket. Many of the new generation geometry longer lower slacker bikes have this problem which is why I don't consider it an improvement, just a current trend. Sure a little more stability is nice but an XCo race bike needs to be pedaled constantly in order to win races. Nino gets way with it because he seldom runs the bike in open mode. He usually plays in the lock out and ascend modes.Its the reason why bikes like Niner RKT RDO still have a massive following. the next step in the geo evolution will be to keep the longer front centers and raise the BB a centimeter. And when the bikes get too long they'll start making them shorter again and we'll be talking about how great short slack and high bike are. We're just rabbits being lead by our noses sniffing carrots. For now enjoy the Scott and by the time you're tired of it the next trend will be upon us Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted September 25, 2018 Share JIP .... brands have to re-invent bikes to keep selling "new designs" ..... the next "new design" - shorter drop-posts .... those of us on the cusp between two frame sizes CAN use a slightly shorter dropper seat post ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W@nted Posted September 25, 2018 Share I just took one out and it works for me. I'm around 82kg in full gear and run 100PSI in the fork to get 25% sag. With the stock number of spacers I wasn't using around 40mm of the fork's travel. With the one spacer removed I'm around 15mm short of full travel, but comfort is much improved. Best thing is it is a free mod and you can experiment to find what works for you!Awesome, thanks for this. I am far from bottoming out with the 20% sag adjustment, so I will look into removing one of the spacers???????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted September 25, 2018 Share Awesome, thanks for this. I am far from bottoming out with the 20% sag adjustment, so I will look into removing one of the spacers Took a drive during lunch time .... Popped in at Good Hope Spares - pretty big auto shop. NOPE .... sockets jumps from 24 to 27mm in size. Got sorted at Nesco, a dedicated engineering shop. now to get rid of that shampher .... will try something tonight, failing which I will have to ask a friend of a friend with a lathe .... holding thumbs for the hack .... the_bob - is it standard thread ? right-to-tighten ? EDIT - thanks, corrected ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebob Posted September 25, 2018 Share the_bob - is it standard thread ? right-to-tighten ? yep! Mine was spun on a lathe. That way it is level and smooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselnDust Posted September 25, 2018 Share Took a drive during lunch time .... Popped in at Good Hope Spares - pretty big auto shop. NOPE .... sockets jumps from 24 to 27mm in size. Got sorted Nesco, a decited engineering shop. now to get rid of that shampher .... will try something tonight, failing which I will have to ask a friend of a friend .... holding thumbs for the hack .... the_bob - is it standard thread ? right-to-tighten ? and you bought from them???!! dedicated maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted September 25, 2018 Share lisdecsies on this Monday that aint exactly a Monday ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alouette3 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Took a drive during lunch time .... Popped in at Good Hope Spares - pretty big auto shop. NOPE .... sockets jumps from 24 to 27mm in size. Got sorted at Nesco, a dedicated engineering shop. now to get rid of that shampher .... will try something tonight, failing which I will have to ask a friend of a friend with a lathe .... holding thumbs for the hack .... the_bob - is it standard thread ? right-to-tighten ? EDIT - thanks, corrected ...Builders Warehouse had 26mm sockets. Can get rid of the chamfer with some masking tape as a guide and an angle grinder with a grinding disc, not a cutting disc.... just be patient and careful and you can have good results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebob Posted September 25, 2018 Share As promised, pics of the modified socket: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisF Posted September 25, 2018 Share It is this easy : start with a HACK .... Standard 26mm hex socket, on an extention, ground down on a bench grinder (I did cool it down in water a couple of times. you dont want to put a heat cycle into the steel...) - Leaving me with a nasty burr - But I was ready for this. Now use a cordless drill and a belt sander to finish it off smoothly, and to round the outer edge - Hack done, time to get to work removing the "volume spacer" 1) Remove the cap, connect the shock pump, and let out the air (dont get a fright when the front ends starts DROPPING !) 2) Use the 26mm socket and undo the top-cap assembly (turning it out ANTI-clockwise) 3) Remove the top-cap assembly and slide out the volume spacer 4) Turn the top-cap assembly back into place, by hand. Used the socket for that very last bit only 5) Use the shock pump to get the shock back up to pressure. I followed the advise above and increased it to 40psi, then pumped the shock a few times, bit more pressure, pumped a few times, repeat until I got it to 95psi. PS - the front end DROPS by 80mm when you let out the air from the shock It took longer typing this post than it took to remove the volume spacer !! (okay, I do type with two fingers, sort off ...) Hacking the socket, removing the volume spacer and stopping each step along the way to take photos the whole process was less than 45 minutes. Then the test ride in the driveway .... noticable difference in the open mode ! Not so much in the half-lockout mode. Cant wait for the weekend to get a chance to TEST it on the trail .... THANK YOU the_bob ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSG Posted September 25, 2018 Share It is this easy : start with a HACK .... Standard 26mm hex socket, on an extention, ground down on a bench grinder (I did cool it down in water a couple of times. you dont want to put a heat cycle into the steel...) - Shock spacer-2.jpg Leaving me with a nasty burr - Shock spacer-1.jpg But I was ready for this. Now use a cordless drill and a belt sander to finish it off smoothly, and to round the outer edge - [emoji106] Shock spacer-3.jpg Hack done, time to get to work removing the "volume spacer" [emoji106] 1) Remove the cap, connect the shock pump, and let out the air (dont get a fright when the front ends starts DROPPING !) Shock spacer-5.jpg Shock spacer-10.jpg 2) Use the 26mm socket and undo the top-cap assembly (turning it out ANTI-clockwise) Shock spacer-6.jpg 3) Remove the top-cap assembly and slide out the volume spacer Shock spacer-7.jpg Shock spacer-8.jpg Shock spacer-9.jpg 4) Turn the top-cap assembly back into place, by hand. Used the socket for that very last bit only Shock spacer-6.jpg 5) Use the shock pump to get the shock back up to pressure. I followed the advise above and increased it to 40psi, then pumped the shock a few times, bit more pressure, pumped a few times, repeat until I got it to 95psi. https://cdn.bikehub.co.za/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif Shock spacer-10.jpg PS - the front end DROPS by 80mm when you let out the air from the shock https://cdn.bikehub.co.za/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif Shock spacer-12.jpg It took longer typing this post than it took to remove the volume spacer !! (okay, I do type with two fingers, sort off ...) Hacking the socket, removing the volume spacer and stopping each step along the way to take photos the whole process was less than 45 minutes. Then the test ride in the driveway .... noticable difference in the open mode ! Not so much in the half-lockout mode. Cant wait for the weekend to get a chance to TEST it on the trail .... [emoji106] THANK YOU the_bob !Very well documented Chris, [emoji6][emoji106] love the idea and it seems quite easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dexter-morgan Posted September 25, 2018 Share Can anyone confirm if a Rock shox sector also has volume spacers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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