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Rims width affect on tyre width


Joe Soap

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I tried searching but me and this search function are not big friends.

 

This morning I bent my front rim (FFS!) and I'm starting to shop around for replacement rims.

I currently have 24mm internal width rims running 2.3/2.2 tyres and there isn't a lot of space left at the back.

 

Has anyone done an exercise to see the rim width is effecting the tyre width?

Is there a way to know for sure that if I move to a 30mm rim that there will be space?

Do I do it in any case and buy narrower tyres with the wider rims (i.e. wider rims are more beneficial than wider tyres)

 

Does anyone know of a good special on wheels somewhere?  :blush:

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Run the 30mm ID rims and run a 2.25 or 2.3 tyre it a Maxxis 2.3 isn't that wide too.

 

Then check out some of Lyne Components rims, especially the newer versions.

 

Great support and after sales, they also offer multiple hub/axle configurations

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You can use a 30mm Rim no prob.

The tyre will become 1 or 2 mm wider.

You can also replace the rim with one of the same size.

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Entirely depends on what tyres you are running. Not all 2.3's are created equal.

 

A 30mm rim "wants" a wider tyres, like 2.3 and 2.4 specifically beneficial for the #enduro market. It fattens oit the contact patch, making more of the rubber available at a less of a lean angle.

 

If your current bike has space while running 2.3's the 30's will be fine. You will be experiencing tyre rub while corenering if you currently dont have enough clearance for a 2.3 using your current rims, due to the tyre having more movement on a thinner rim.

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Stans wide right worth looking at. 30mm rim should run a 2.5 inch tyre or wider. If you running narrower tyre then save unsprung weight and go narrower rim.

 

https://www.notubes.com/technology/wide-right

 

https://www.notubes.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/MTB-WideRight-Graphic-V2.jpg

 

Really wide rims and narrower then ideal tyre combos distort tyre shapes and can make for sketchy control issues when transitioning into the hard shoulder. Inversely too rounded lacks support.

 

24mm on 2.25 - 2.35 is great for xc and light trail with light 450 gram 29" rims.

 

Personally I'd keep the 24mm on the rear with a 2.25 tyre and run a 30mm rim up front with a 2.6 inch tyre (Foow mk3 etc). Fat grip on the front, fast rolling on the rear.

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I am running 30mm with 2.25 Schwalbe and works great tyre is not squared out at all as some would have you believe.

I went with the 30mm because all the narrower rims I looked at weight limit was to low.

I have to say it did make quite a difference with clearance at the back but I had 20mm rims so 10mm is quite a big jump because the tyre not only get wider but taller to.

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I've been running 35mm internal rims and had to change my tyres as my standard ones started being odd when I stepped up from 25mm internal. Seemed like the profile flattened off and side knobs came into play when rolling. 

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I tried searching but me and this search function are not big friends.

 

This morning I bent my front rim (FFS!) and I'm starting to shop around for replacement rims.

I currently have 24mm internal width rims running 2.3/2.2 tyres and there isn't a lot of space left at the back.

 

Has anyone done an exercise to see the rim width is effecting the tyre width?

Is there a way to know for sure that if I move to a 30mm rim that there will be space?

Do I do it in any case and buy narrower tyres with the wider rims (i.e. wider rims are more beneficial than wider tyres)

 

Does anyone know of a good special on wheels somewhere?  :blush:

Stans MK3 arch has a 26mm internal diameter .Combined with a 2,35 tyre works great and enough clearance for mud .Race face makes a 27mm internal width rim and works great also .For my 100kg ,i will reluctantly go to 30mm carbon rims on a MTB

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