Sunrace 12spd VS NX eagle

[Tatt]

Interesting comments on Shimano!

 

I switched to a Sunrace 42-11 (steel), because of the lack of durability on the Shimano XT M8000. Got a total of 4000 kays from two cassettes, with the one not even getting past a 1000 (and yes my bike is serviced and looked after). 

 

At the beginning of this year I was offered a cracking deal on the 46 - 11 Sunrace, so switched the 42. So far I have completed around 7000 kays, running a 26/36 combo upfront, with not a single issue.

 

In short,  I think Sunrace will give the big 2 a run for their money with this groupset, and I'd happily spend my cash on it if I was upgrading.

 

Tom

[DieselnDust]

34t 11/46 will give you the same ratio on granny with a 36t 11/50 according to an app I've got.

0.74 vs 0.72 is hardly the same..

The app I used is called calculator

[Jewbacca]

0.74 vs 0.72 is hardly the same..

The app I used is called calculator

hahahaha really?

 

0.02 difference?

 

No man.... 32/19 and 34/20 feel pretty much the same to me on the SS.... Are you arguing semantics or genuine gear ratios?

[SCD]

Interesting comments on Shimano!

 

I switched to a Sunrace 42-11 (steel), because of the lack of durability on the Shimano XT M8000. Got a total of 4000 kays from two cassettes, with the one not even getting past a 1000 (and yes my bike is serviced and looked after). 

 

At the beginning of this year I was offered a cracking deal on the 46 - 11 Sunrace, so switched the 42. So far I have completed around 7000 kays, running a 26/36 combo upfront, with not a single issue.

 

In short,  I think Sunrace will give the big 2 a run for their money with this groupset, and I'd happily spend my cash on it if I was upgrading.

 

Tom

 

Hi Tom, the durability statements on your cassettes mean nothing without letting the reader know at what %wear you change your chains and what terrain you ride.

 

EG I got 7000km out of a single XO1 cassette on my good bike with 3No XX1 chains that were changed at 0.5% wear. Riding 50% approach and 50% trail, at all weather, with chains cleaned and lubed after every ride. The cassette now allows new chains to slip under high torque on the 10t and 12t sprockets. It will go for another few thousand Ks onto the commuter bike. My best XT cassette lasted 2000km using the same (right or wrong) technique when I still was on 10 speed.

[ChrisF]

34t 11/46 will give you the same ratio on granny with a 36t 11/50 according to an app I've got.

 

Found some of the other feedback interesting .... so just for those lost on gearing, a bit of semantics ...

 

The 34 and 11-46 setup gives a low and high ratio of 0,739 and 3,091 respectively

 

The 36 and 11-50 setup gives a low and high ratio of 0,720 and 3,273 respectively

 

 

Comparing the 0,739 and 0,720 values the difference is a mere 2,6%, with the better climbing ration in favour of the 36 x 11-50 setup.  But as pointed out already, this is a very marginal gain.

 

REALITY CHECK - many bikes are now sold with a 32 x 11-50 setup, for a 0,64 climbing ratio.  JIP, stronger riders would immediately go for a 34 up front ... with only some managing to churn a 36 on a trail with many climbs.... On the extreme end of the scale a person with bad knees may opt for 30 x 10-50, with a climbing ratio of 0,600 - with this you are spinning at 6km/h up a steep hill !

 

 

 

The very hard reality of 1x systems is the balance between bottom end and top end.  So it is worth nothing that the 36 tooth gear has a 5,9% increase in top speed as compared to the 34 tooth gear, both on an 11 tooth small gear.

 

 

And THIS is where the GX range comes into play.

 

Consider a 34 x 10-50 GX setup :

you now have a 0,680 climbing ratio, which should suit most stronger riders, even in hilly terrain.

On the bottom end you now have 3,4 speed ratio, which means 10% more top end.

 

Now try the GX range on the 36 x 10-50 (ratios of 0,72 and 3,6) setup with the 34 x 11-46 (ratios of 0,739 and 3,091)

 

You are back to the 0,72 climbing ratio, which would require a serious set of legs for hilly trails, still marginally better than the 34x46. 

But man o man, now you have a 3,6 speed ratio, or 16,5% improvement in top end ....

 

 

 

But maths dont account for YOUR legs and the trails YOU ride .....

 

Top end is nice, but means little if you cant get up the hills you ride .....

 

 

For me this means I need the wider range that the GX offers, so that I can still get up the steep hills in our area, and mange an acceptable top end ...

[PeterF]

Found some of the other feedback interesting .... so just for those lost on gearing, a bit of semantics ...

 

The 34 and 11-46 setup gives a low and high ratio of 0,739 and 3,091 respectively

 

The 36 and 11-50 setup gives a low and high ratio of 0,720 and 3,273 respectively

 

 

Comparing the 0,739 and 0,720 values the difference is a mere 2,6%, with the better climbing ration in favour of the 36 x 11-50 setup.  But as pointed out already, this is a very marginal gain.

 

REALITY CHECK - many bikes are now sold with a 32 x 11-50 setup, for a 0,64 climbing ratio.  JIP, stronger riders would immediately go for a 34 up front ... with only some managing to churn a 36 on a trail with many climbs.... On the extreme end of the scale a person with bad knees may opt for 30 x 10-50, with a climbing ratio of 0,600 - with this you are spinning at 6km/h up a steep hill !

 

 

 

The very hard reality of 1x systems is the balance between bottom end and top end.  So it is worth nothing that the 36 tooth gear has a 5,9% increase in top speed as compared to the 34 tooth gear, both on an 11 tooth small gear.

 

 

And THIS is where the GX range comes into play.

 

Consider a 34 x 10-50 GX setup :

you now have a 0,680 climbing ratio, which should suit most stronger riders, even in hilly terrain.

On the bottom end you now have 3,4 speed ratio, which means 10% more top end.

 

Now try the GX range on the 36 x 10-50 (ratios of 0,72 and 3,6) setup with the 34 x 11-46 (ratios of 0,739 and 3,091)

 

You are back to the 0,72 climbing ratio, which would require a serious set of legs for hilly trails, still marginally better than the 34x46. 

But man o man, now you have a 3,6 speed ratio, or 16,5% improvement in top end ....

 

 

 

But maths dont account for YOUR legs and the trails YOU ride .....

 

Top end is nice, but means little if you cant get up the hills you ride .....

 

 

For me this means I need the wider range that the GX offers, so that I can still get up the steep hills in our area, and mange an acceptable top end ...

This is exactly what I said except with a lot more words

[Boerklong]

0.74 vs 0.72 is hardly the same..

The app I used is called calculator

Thanks. My bad. Just saw that now.

[DieselnDust]

hahahaha really?

 

0.02 difference?

 

No man.... 32/19 and 34/20 feel pretty much the same to me on the SS.... Are you arguing semantics or genuine gear ratios?

Well call it semantics but 0.2km/hr at 80rpm is the difference between the ratio feeling slightly heavy or OK, especially when one considers that the gear is going to be used on a very steep climb. Eventually as a rider gets fitter (assuming that is their focus), it does become semantics but if your ptw is less than 3.2W/kg it's going to feel like a big deal.

[ChrisF]

This is exactly what I said except with a lot more words

 

that it is. 

 

 

sad reality is that many people dont really understand the "ratios" as kicked out be the various Apps .....  and even then, very few have any idea what their ideal granny ratio should be ....

 

 

 

hopefully my 2 hour typing session may benefit somebody ... 

[DieselnDust]

Spot on Chris. The Eagle 12 allows one to drop the chain ring size whilst maintaining top end and extending the low end gearing for easier climbing.

[Tatt]

Hi Tom, the durability statements on your cassettes mean nothing without letting the reader know at what %wear you change your chains and what terrain you ride.

 

EG I got 7000km out of a single XO1 cassette on my good bike with 3No XX1 chains that were changed at 0.5% wear. Riding 50% approach and 50% trail, at all weather, with chains cleaned and lubed after every ride. The cassette now allows new chains to slip under high torque on the 10t and 12t sprockets. It will go for another few thousand Ks onto the commuter bike. My best XT cassette lasted 2000km using the same (right or wrong) technique when I still was on 10 speed.

 

I ride the exact same trails week in and week out, so the comparison is good. 

 

Tom

[Jewbacca]

Well call it semantics but 0.2km/hr at 80rpm is the difference between the ratio feeling slightly heavy or OK, especially when one considers that the gear is going to be used on a very steep climb. Eventually as a rider gets fitter (assuming that is their focus), it does become semantics but if your ptw is less than 3.2W/kg it's going to feel like a big deal.

0.2 I can understand, but 0.02 is the difference between having a decent poop before you ride or only having half a decent poop! hahahaha

[DieselnDust]

I pay good money to pinch out that last two grams.

[SCD]

I ride the exact same trails week in and week out, so the comparison is good.

 

Tom

Fair enough it will work for your own comparison. All good.

[Butterbean]

So!

 

Finally got the sms to go fetch the gruppo and of course couldn't wait to pop it on the anthem.

 

Installation was super easy, the kit comes with everything you need.

 

The shifter does feel a little cheap but comparative to SLX at least. The dérailleur is pretty great, is quite slim on its side profile so doesn't protrude a whole bunch.

 

The cassette is actually a lot lighten than I anticipated and fitment of everything was a doddle.

 

Setup easy, it's a rear dérailleur for goodness sake, and I had to leave a little extra in the chain to account for the planned larger chainring, when I can find a direct mount sram pattern 36 tooth. If I have to settle for a 34 then that's fine.

 

The spacing on the "plat" gears is much better than the old ten speed 11-42, and the granny is just ridiculous...

 

Only real stand out feature is the shifter, when you've reached the end of the range, doesn't still loosely shift, it's kinda locks... I like this over Shimano, I don't have to look down to see that I am hail Mary shifting...

 

All in all, and of course so far, it seems a cheap price for my requirements, and quality looks great...

[Skylark]

I'm assuming the Rd must have a clutch and if so what is it like and does it have that look in the down position that some Sram Rd have?