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Pedal strikes


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Dear, everyone who knows more than me. Thus, everyone.

 

I had a SC Tallboy(large).

 

Now I ride a Specialized Camber XL.

 

I had one or two pedals strikes with the Tallboy but it feels like they bloody well happen all the time with the Camber.

 

Is there something that needs to be setup or am I just not anticipating pedal positions properly?

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pedal strikes happen. There are 3 ways to address them

 

1 - shorter cranks

2 - keep your pedals level and don't pedal through technical sections / rocky sections or time your pedal strokes carefully

3 - get a bike with a higher BB, and see pt. 1

 

Next time I buy cranks I'm getting 165's purely to address pedal strikes. 

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Check the sag on your camber - you might be sitting a bit low.

I wasn't using all my travel, so kept dropping the pressure on the rear shock to soften it up and was eventually hitting everything in site with my pedals (and still not using all the travel).

 

I pumped it back up again and all is well with the world (and I am riding harder to use that rear a bit more)

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Pedal strikes on a Stumpy. Changed to 170mm crank. Changing 6/fattie (27.5 x 3.00) to 29 x 2.6 in the hope that the slight height advantage on the 9ers minimises strikes even more. Also adjust suspension / fork depending on trail conditions. I should add I ride flats...

Edited by keithbe
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When I run flat pedals I tend to pedal strike more so than when using cleats, bigger surface area  to hit I suppose, I'm assuming you have the same pedal setup on both bikes?

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Had 2 or 3 pedal strikes with the Trek EX5

 

The SCOTT Spark 940 is MUCH more prone to pedal strikes !!!  Had another light one this morning ....  Knowing the the bike, and its tendancy for pedal strikes, I am much more selective in my pedal positions for technical sections ....  Happening less now than when I bought the bike.

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pedal strikes happen. There are 3 ways to address them

 

1 - shorter cranks

2 - keep your pedals level and don't pedal through technical sections / rocky sections or time your pedal strokes carefully

3 - get a bike with a higher BB, and see pt. 1

 

Next time I buy cranks I'm getting 165's purely to address pedal strikes.

 

changed my cranks to 165's was a bit concerned in the beginning about longer rides. It has turned out to be 1 of the best chances I have made, except for having no pedal strikes it is easier to spin making it easier to keep my speed up.
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This country... everything and everyone strikes... even the pedals :P

 

According to the 1st formula +-173mm, but according to the 9.5% formula I should be riding 165mm cranks. I wouldn't mind trying 170mm to see what difference it makes.

Edited by Jacquers
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Pedal strikes on a Stumpy. Changed to 170mm crank. Changing 6/fattie (27.5 x 3.00) to 29 x 2.6 in the hope that the slight height advantage on the 9ers minimises strikes even more. Also adjust suspension / fork depending on trail conditions. I should add I ride flats...

Change to 29 it helps a lot, my 2016 stumpy with 650+ tyres striked constantly and almost no strikes when on wagon wheels

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Had 2 or 3 pedal strikes with the Trek EX5

 

The SCOTT Spark 940 is MUCH more prone to pedal strikes !!!  Had another light one this morning ....  Knowing the the bike, and its tendancy for pedal strikes, I am much more selective in my pedal positions for technical sections ....  Happening less now than when I bought the bike.

Do the newer 940's have a flip chip?

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Do the newer 940's have a flip chip?

 

sorry, dont know what that is ....  hope one of the Spark owners can help ...

 

 

I know the Trek has the "mino-link", dont see something similar on the Scott Spark

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This country... everything and everyone strikes... even the pedals :P

 

According to the 1st formula +-173mm, but according to the 9.5% formula I should be riding 165mm cranks. I wouldn't mind trying 170mm to see what difference it makes.

So it should clear up by itself after the elections?

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Thanks, guys.

 

A lot to investigate and experiment with.

 

1. I have crankbrother double shot pedals on

2. It is a 29'er with 2.3" tyres

3. Currently running 175mm crank arms(might try changing these first).

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Its MTB Eugene. Ride hard and pedal strikes will happen. If you dont like pedal strikes, maybe consider road bike riding. Also hard but with no pedal strikes.

P.S. Never ever get rid of a Tall Boy

Edited by Vetseun
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This country... everything and everyone strikes... even the pedals :P

 

According to the 1st formula +-173mm, but according to the 9.5% formula I should be riding 165mm cranks. I wouldn't mind trying 170mm to see what difference it makes.

I am 175cm with 79cm inseam and on both it came to 165mm. So happy with that.
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