Eugéne Alberts Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 Dear, everyone who knows more than me. Thus, everyone. I had a SC Tallboy(large). Now I ride a Specialized Camber XL. I had one or two pedals strikes with the Tallboy but it feels like they bloody well happen all the time with the Camber. Is there something that needs to be setup or am I just not anticipating pedal positions properly?
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 pedal strikes happen. There are 3 ways to address them 1 - shorter cranks2 - keep your pedals level and don't pedal through technical sections / rocky sections or time your pedal strokes carefully3 - get a bike with a higher BB, and see pt. 1 Next time I buy cranks I'm getting 165's purely to address pedal strikes.
splat Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 Check the sag on your camber - you might be sitting a bit low.I wasn't using all my travel, so kept dropping the pressure on the rear shock to soften it up and was eventually hitting everything in site with my pedals (and still not using all the travel). I pumped it back up again and all is well with the world (and I am riding harder to use that rear a bit more)
keithbe Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 Pedal strikes on a Stumpy. Changed to 170mm crank. Changing 6/fattie (27.5 x 3.00) to 29 x 2.6 in the hope that the slight height advantage on the 9ers minimises strikes even more. Also adjust suspension / fork depending on trail conditions. I should add I ride flats...
Albatross Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 When I run flat pedals I tend to pedal strike more so than when using cleats, bigger surface area to hit I suppose, I'm assuming you have the same pedal setup on both bikes?
ChrisF Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 Had 2 or 3 pedal strikes with the Trek EX5 The SCOTT Spark 940 is MUCH more prone to pedal strikes !!! Had another light one this morning .... Knowing the the bike, and its tendancy for pedal strikes, I am much more selective in my pedal positions for technical sections .... Happening less now than when I bought the bike.
Me rida my bicycle Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 pedal strikes happen. There are 3 ways to address them 1 - shorter cranks2 - keep your pedals level and don't pedal through technical sections / rocky sections or time your pedal strokes carefully3 - get a bike with a higher BB, and see pt. 1 Next time I buy cranks I'm getting 165's purely to address pedal strikes. changed my cranks to 165's was a bit concerned in the beginning about longer rides. It has turned out to be 1 of the best chances I have made, except for having no pedal strikes it is easier to spin making it easier to keep my speed up.
Me rida my bicycle Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 Here's 2 ways to see what length cranks you should be riding.
MrJacques Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 This country... everything and everyone strikes... even the pedals According to the 1st formula +-173mm, but according to the 9.5% formula I should be riding 165mm cranks. I wouldn't mind trying 170mm to see what difference it makes.
ChrisF Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 Do the newer 940's have a flip chip? sorry, dont know what that is .... hope one of the Spark owners can help ... I know the Trek has the "mino-link", dont see something similar on the Scott Spark
Eugéne Alberts Posted February 23, 2019 Author Posted February 23, 2019 This country... everything and everyone strikes... even the pedals According to the 1st formula +-173mm, but according to the 9.5% formula I should be riding 165mm cranks. I wouldn't mind trying 170mm to see what difference it makes.So it should clear up by itself after the elections?
Eugéne Alberts Posted February 23, 2019 Author Posted February 23, 2019 Thanks, guys. A lot to investigate and experiment with. 1. I have crankbrother double shot pedals on2. It is a 29'er with 2.3" tyres3. Currently running 175mm crank arms(might try changing these first).
Vetseun Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 Its MTB Eugene. Ride hard and pedal strikes will happen. If you dont like pedal strikes, maybe consider road bike riding. Also hard but with no pedal strikes.P.S. Never ever get rid of a Tall Boy
Me rida my bicycle Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 This country... everything and everyone strikes... even the pedals According to the 1st formula +-173mm, but according to the 9.5% formula I should be riding 165mm cranks. I wouldn't mind trying 170mm to see what difference it makes.I am 175cm with 79cm inseam and on both it came to 165mm. So happy with that.
Knersboy Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 What I like about pedal strikes is that they always remind me how damn strong Shimano spd pedals are
Jewbacca Posted February 23, 2019 Posted February 23, 2019 I always regard pedal strikes as bad riding..... I tend to see avoiding them as part of the collective skill set one develops the more one rides. Fatigue amplifies bad technique and timing, so if you're less fit they tend to happen more frequently. I do however agree with shorter cranks. Not for the pedal strikes, but because they just make more sense. Sky were riding 162.5's on their road bikes and even shorter on some of their TT setups a while back. I ride 170mm on all my geared bikes. 165 are definitely an option for the trail bike. Have 180mm on the SS........
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