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Scott Spark 'diy' Respray


CScriba

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Posted

Where did you get the "2_part car paint mixed in to a can" from?

This was in Cape Town, At Economic Motor Spares in Observatory.

 

391 Main Rd, Observatory, Cape Town, 7925

 

They worked extremely well, its the first time I've used them, but i am very impressed by the evenness and consistency which is achievable.

Posted

This was in Cape Town, At Economic Motor Spares in Observatory.

 

391 Main Rd, Observatory, Cape Town, 7925

 

They worked extremely well, its the first time I've used them, but i am very impressed by the evenness and consistency which is achievable.

May I ask what their pricing is like compared to what you would normally find at builders?

Posted

Yes, i just had the decals/vinyl cut so that i could only use the "negative" image, covered the rest of the frame with plastic using some masking tape etc, and then just dipped that portion.

 

Pretty easy, and the vinyl peels off really easy after you are done.

We didn't want an obnoxious logo paint job, so we quite liked how subtle and slightly faded the end product came out.

 

If anybody want, i still have the .vector and .pdf files for the vinyl cutting, should they need them.

I was just confused as in the one pic the positives were on the frame and not the negatives.

 

Did you remove the positives then add the negatives?

Posted

May I ask what their pricing is like compared to what you would normally find at builders?

It was about R170 per can, the primer from Builders was something like R150 , and normal rustoleum paints at builders are also around R140 i think.

I only needed one of each - 1x primer, 1x base, 1x clear.

 

I was just confused as in the one pic the positives were on the frame and not the negatives.

 

Did you remove the positives then add the negatives?

Yes, so i did two rounds of masking and painting. The first was a 'positive' logo, as on the photo, which was sprayed over to leave a two tone black on black logo (masking the logo so that the primer is left as the imprint and the rest of the frame became base coat black) so very subtle.

the second was a negative mask, which allowed me to apply a new colour only onto the logo area - there was no photo of this, i was too excited in the moment to get a picture.

 

so in the end, i had two types and phases of vinyl masks, one positive and one negative.

Posted

It was about R170 per can, the primer from Builders was something like R150 , and normal rustoleum paints at builders are also around R140 i think.

I only needed one of each - 1x primer, 1x base, 1x clear.

 

Yes, so i did two rounds of masking and painting. The first was a 'positive' logo, as on the photo, which was sprayed over to leave a two tone black on black logo (masking the logo so that the primer is left as the imprint and the rest of the frame became base coat black) so very subtle.

the second was a negative mask, which allowed me to apply a new colour only onto the logo area - there was no photo of this, i was too excited in the moment to get a picture.

 

so in the end, i had two types and phases of vinyl masks, one positive and one negative.

THAT MAKES SENSE!!! Kudos dude!

Posted

Step 8:

 

Lunchtime update.

 

Once you have finished pulling your teeth from waiting so long, its back to the spray booth, isopropyl alcohol for any oiliness, and 2 finishing coat of Clear.

 

The automotive shop mixed some 2 part (2k clear) in a can.

For best results, also let the can lie in some warm water to allow better flow – we opted for a Satin/semi-gloss sheen.

 

Once finished, when realising that its already 00:30 in the morning, say goodnight and pray for the best!

Drown out the urge to look and touch the next morning by destroying yourself with an interval ride on Zwift.

 

Note: be very careful of how you rub, or hold the frame before spraying, the enamel and base coat is technically not yet fully cured, and still open to marking and softness(even if it feels dry). Unfortunately I left a few small marks on the paintwork from silver rubbing onto the latex gloves, transferring silver smudges to some areas. Nothing too visible luckily, but lesson learnt.

 

Also, spray in a well ventilated area, in a proper booth if possible. The clearcoat created a crazy “mist” in the room, which settled like dust on the frame. Luckily it didn’t have any effect on the finish, i could simply wipe it off without problems, but easily could have ruined it.

 

Photo: the final, double/triple clear coated frame, left to dry and cure for a full 24 hours.

It can be handled lightly before this, but I would suggest giving it a good few days.

 

post-4213-0-85068700-1566472100_thumb.jpg

 

Posted

Step 9:

 

After waiting a day or two for the paint to cure, its time to remove all the masking.

Still be carefull, dont handle too violently, apparently paint does take a good few days, if not weeks to cure to 100%. i will be letting the frame 'bake' in the sun over the weekend to help this out a bit.

 

Photo 1: Main logo detail

post-4213-0-54808200-1566486176_thumb.jpg

 

Photo2: Obligatory couch photo

post-4213-0-50085900-1566486184_thumb.jpg

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