Rockshox Reba

[DieselnDust]

Are you trying to kill yourself?

[piotter]

UPDATE

 

Well turns out that the "Arch" is not pure aluminum. Guy managed to weld it, but he reckoned the metal was a pewter compound.

Took her for a test ride, nothing harsh, few kerbs and downhill dodging. Check it out, and yup, she has definitely cracked again.

 

Really  not a smart thing to do, you're very lucky that you managed to get home and find out that it's cracked again...

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Can you afford to go buy your bike for its retail value tomorrow if it got stolen today?

This, and HECK no... 

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

UPDATE

 

Well turns out that the "Arch" is not pure aluminum. Guy managed to weld it, but he reckoned the metal was a pewter compound.

Took her for a test ride, nothing harsh, few kerbs and downhill dodging. Check it out, and yup, she has definitely cracked again.

 

[Butterbean]

Seems some people just can't be helped. All those warning stickers now make sense.

[Jewbacca]

Seems some people just can't be helped. All those warning stickers now make sense.

This coffee is HOT!

 

This is next level 21st century.... 

 

Come to forum, ask advice.

 

Get really good advice from a lot of really experienced people.

 

Do the opposite to the advice given because it wasn't what you wanted to hear.....

 

(Sue rock-shox for losing your face when the repair that everyone told you not to do fails)

[BaGearA]

Please make sure your medical insurance is up to date

 

#jussayin

[Alouette3]

*This post is useless without photos*     

 

Come along Friday

[AdamA]

UPDATE

 

Well turns out that the "Arch" is not pure aluminum. Guy managed to weld it, but he reckoned the metal was a pewter compound.

Took her for a test ride, nothing harsh, few kerbs and downhill dodging. Check it out, and yup, she has definitely cracked again.

 

Fork lowers are usually magnesium or manganese... 

and should only be Brazed and not welded,

Brazing magnesium should be done at 723deg Celsius,

Brazing manganese should be done at 327deg Fahrenheit

 

Please post pics of the repair

[AdamA]

JD, 

 

You might be aware that a REBA fork has a Air spring on the one side and a Lock out and rebound on the other, which means that they resist different forces. the arch is there for a reason... to transfer these forces in the fork lowers in order to have 'almost balanced' forces at the wheel axle.

 

Ridding a broken fork like that will put unbalanced forces on the hub and either snap your QR (15mm TA or 9mm QR) or damage your hub.

 

 

I know finances are tight, but you are wasting your time running around trying to repair this bike.

 

for commuting I would recommend 

 

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/category/26-hardtail-bikes/?s=&price_min=0&price_max=3000&type%5B%5D=1&custom-17=0&custom-2=4

 

 

good luck 

[IcemanGP]

Really  not a smart thing to do, you're very lucky that you managed to get home and find out that it's cracked again...

 

Suppose so, considering the fact that when it first broke on Sunday, I still rode 50k with it, going over jumps, berms, rocks etc at Red Barn ... so if it was gonna hurt me, it would have happened then.

[IcemanGP]

Fork lowers are usually magnesium or manganese... 

and should only be Brazed and not welded,

Brazing magnesium should be done at 723deg Celsius,

Brazing manganese should be done at 327deg Fahrenheit

 

Please post pics of the repair

 

Thank you for your reply ... one of the few that has sincerely tried to offer the best advice to help a guy out with a tight budget.

[IcemanGP]

This coffee is HOT!

 

This is next level 21st century.... 

 

Come to forum, ask advice.

 

Get really good advice from a lot of really experienced people.

 

Do the opposite to the advice given because it wasn't what you wanted to hear.....

 

(Sue rock-shox for losing your face when the repair that everyone told you not to do fails)

 

I need advice that helps a guy on a budget that doesn't exist that cannot afford a "Replacement Shock or Bike" ... I cannot always be begging for some donations, it's bad enough that I find myself in my current life situation.

If I could have done that, I would never have asked for any advice in the first place.

Only one person gave advice that said it cannot be welded, but should be Brazed as it's not Aluminum.

[IcemanGP]

JD, 

 

You might be aware that a REBA fork has a Air spring on the one side and a Lock out and rebound on the other, which means that they resist different forces. the arch is there for a reason... to transfer these forces in the fork lowers in order to have 'almost balanced' forces at the wheel axle.

 

Ridding a broken fork like that will put unbalanced forces on the hub and either snap your QR (15mm TA or 9mm QR) or damage your hub.

 

 

I know finances are tight, but you are wasting your time running around trying to repair this bike.

 

for commuting I would recommend 

 

https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/category/26-hardtail-bikes/?s=&price_min=0&price_max=3000&type%5B%5D=1&custom-17=0&custom-2=4

 

 

good luck 

Thank you for your advice. I suppose that I should consider myself extremely lucky that no further damage happened. I know it's very easy to say "Get another Bike" ... heck I have 14 plugs in my front wheel, I cannot even afford a new tyre.

I don't just commute, it's my sanity.

Thank you again.

[scotty]

If you rode an XL and it was an issue with the frame i could help with a 26" HT frame. Prices for decent 26" wheels, tyres, suspension shocks etc I find more expensive than their bigger brother. 

[Dicky DQ]

OK OP so did you see the post from Simon Kolin? 200ZAR is not a bad price, did you follow up to see it it would work for you. Apparently the bushes were also not shot.

 

So for me that would have been for the win. But that is just me.