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Posted

One ride with the bolt slightly loose and that spline is tickets.

 

It was an issue with older Raceface cranks of similar design.

 

Thanks Droo... 

 

Yes the bolt was more than slightly loose... The crank came off while riding, so was loose for quite a while. I did some trail side repairs with 8mm hex but could not tighten the lock nut enough as i did not have the Cir-clip Pliers needed to do that. the rest of the ride was spent tightening the 8MM hex every couple of km.

Posted

Eish... The I would guess the play is due to wear....

 

So, what you 'could' do, is coat the axle in grease, then fill the crank with an epoxy. Bolt the crank onto the spindle (off the bike) and let the epoxy ooze out but bind to the crank (sand it with a stick or what not). 

 

Wipe up as much of the ooz as possible, then when set, the grease will allow you to slide the crank off.

 

Sand down excess and off you go.

 

Or buy a 2nd hand crank for around a grand.....

Posted

you;ll have ti make a short video of the play that you're refering to.

 

if a spacer is missing you will tighten the crank onto the end of the spline and the axwl will slide in and out of the bottom bracket.

 

for the crank to move in the way you're trying to describe will mean that either the crank bolt is not tightened properly or the bb bearing is shot.

 

If the axle is a GXP arrangement ( doesn't appear to have a step on the end) and the BB is a Shimano  then that can be a reason for the play. Did you replace the BB or have it serviced?

 

Thanks Diesel.

 

The 8mm Bolt was tightened to max ( ie as tight as I could, ignoring the recommended torque) 

 

I haven't replaced or serviced the BB. The bike does not get to much use, as it is my secondary bike.

 

As the 'Expert in all matters bicycle' ( aka Droo) said "its tickets" ... the play would be caused by the loose bolt.

 

I will take a video of the current play and then do some experiments with Loctite, Plumbers tape, and other stuff and document the results as it may help others. 

 

But as Martin said in the second post "Usually results in replacing the crank." 

 

Fortunately I have a spare XO Carbon crank (2x10) that I can on, but that means I will have to put on the front derailer and shifter ( and yes I have a spare Pressfit GPX BB) 

 

Thanks for the help

Posted (edited)

Thanks Droo... 

 

Yes the bolt was more than slightly loose... The crank came off while riding, so was loose for quite a while. I did some trail side repairs with 8mm hex but could not tighten the lock nut enough as i did not have the Cir-clip Pliers needed to do that. the rest of the ride was spent tightening the 8MM hex every couple of km.

 

 

Then I'd say that the crank arm splines are *&&^ed

 

You could try some Pratley Steel Epoxy. Mix and apply to the splines and tighten up while its still curing. Just make sure everything is greased up so that it will come off again!! No grease on the crank arm splines though, just the axle and bolt.

I doubt it will hold for longer than a few rides but it may keep you going for a while.

Edited by DieselnDust
Posted

Fortunately I have a spare XO Carbon crank (2x10) that I can on, but that means I will have to put on the front derailer and shifter ( and yes I have a spare Pressfit GPX BB) 

 

Those cranks have removable spiders. Take the spider off and buy a direct mount chain ring from Rapide or off the hub.

Posted

Eish... The I would guess the play is due to wear....

 

So, what you 'could' do, is coat the axle in grease, then fill the crank with an epoxy. Bolt the crank onto the spindle (off the bike) and let the epoxy ooze out but bind to the crank (sand it with a stick or what not). 

 

Wipe up as much of the ooz as possible, then when set, the grease will allow you to slide the crank off.

 

Sand down excess and off you go.

 

Or buy a 2nd hand crank for around a grand.....

 

Thanks Jewbacca, 

 

This sounds like a plan. I did think of epoxy, but i didn't think of greasing it before applying the epoxy allowing it to be removed and re-assembled.

 

I will try this last, after loctite and plumbers tape.

Posted

Thanks Droo... 

 

Yes the bolt was more than slightly loose... The crank came off while riding, so was loose for quite a while. I did some trail side repairs with 8mm hex but could not tighten the lock nut enough as i did not have the Cir-clip Pliers needed to do that. the rest of the ride was spent tightening the 8MM hex every couple of km.

 

That outer cap is a self extractor, not a locknut, so tightening it wouldn't help. Also the correct tool is a pin spanner, circlip pliers will most likely break.

 

But definitely sounds like the spline is toast if the crank was ridden to the point of falling off.

Posted

One ride with the bolt slightly loose and that spline is tickets.

 

It was an issue with older Raceface cranks of similar design.

Sheesh... I see how that could happen with a loose bolt. That sucks.

Posted

I would use a Loctite or similar retaining compound - note, not the usual thread locker but a retaining compound. I have successfully used Loctite 660 Quick Metal in worn aluminium housings and it has been very successful.

 

The only negative is that it might be cheaper buying a new Crank than buying Loctite!

Ain't that the damn truth, unfortunately I thi k most people buy knockoffs when they see the price of the real stuff

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