About Surfing.

[Duane_Bosch]

Little snappies from yesterdays early morning session at Derdes. Loaner Board circa 2018. The lender doesn't know this yet but he's going to have to pry this out of my cold dead hands to get it back. Hands down the best groveler I've ever ridden.

Edited January 12, 2023 by Duane_Bosch

[Duane_Bosch]

The Sequences

 

[Duane_Bosch]

Another

[Duane_Bosch]

Aand the float to fail.

 

['Dale]

On 1/12/2023 at 9:27 AM, Duane_Bosch said:

Little snappies from yesterdays early morning session at Derdes. Loaner Board circa 2018. The lender doesn't know this yet but he's going to have to pry this out of my cold dead hands to get it back. Hands down the best groveler I've ever ridden.

That’s the biggest smile I’ve seen on your dial ever, @Duane_Bosch Mooi, man. Surf’s up!

[Duane_Bosch]

18 hours ago, 'Dale said:

That’s the biggest smile I’ve seen on your dial ever, @Duane_Bosch Mooi, man. Surf’s up!

That's my I'm falling in love with this bit of foam and fibre face. It's literally a backyard hand shaped EPS that's glassed too thick. I've got a set of fins in there that I bought as a backup set incase my good fins break out. The tail shape isn't really in keeping with the design of the rest of the board. It's 42l which is VERY buoyant.

It really has no right being so good. The mate who I skollied it from did win US open champs on it tho so it does have pedigree. He let me use it while my small wave board was ben repaired.

I've even had it down the Dunes which is a big no no for this style of eps board. Once I'd nursed it through the bottom dropping out of the waves it was a good barrel rider too. It allows me to make something from nothing which I really love.

Edited January 20, 2023 by Duane_Bosch

['Dale]

On 1/20/2023 at 8:37 AM, Duane_Bosch said:

That's my I'm falling in love with this bit of foam and fibre face. It's literally a backyard hand shaped EPS that's glassed too thick. I've got a set of fins in there that I bought as a backup set incase my good fins break out. The tail shape isn't really in keeping with the design of the rest of the board. It's 42l which is VERY buoyant.

It really has no right being so good. The mate who I skollied it from did win US open champs on it tho so it does have pedigree. He let me use it while my small wave board was ben repaired.

I've even had it down the Dunes which is a big no no for this style of eps board. Once I'd nursed it through the bottom dropping out of the waves it was a good barrel rider too. It allows me to make something from nothing which I really love.

Thanx for sharing.
 I firmly believe and hold on to ‘Live a life that brings you inner peace and joy’. It often involves freeing the mind from the daily grind, the schedule of the rat race and reconnecting with nature. 
 

[Robbie Stewart]

On 1/12/2023 at 9:15 AM, Duane_Bosch said:

I only got one noteworthy wave but what I saw will live with me forever.

There is that one barrel I got at Vicbay so many years ago. I scored it off Leanard Giles as he chose not to go. I can still hear the thunder of the lip and see the glass curtain dropping beside me as I weave the spit ball trying to dodge chandeliers. I got pinched on the exit, but that image is seared into my memory bank forever.

[Duane_Bosch]

3 hours ago, Robbie Stewart said:

There is that one barrel I got at Vicbay so many years ago. I scored it off Leanard Giles as he chose not to go. I can still hear the thunder of the lip and see the glass curtain dropping beside me as I weave the spit ball trying to dodge chandeliers. I got pinched on the exit, but that image is seared into my memory bank forever.

My folks used to live in J Bay. One time I went up there and it was absolutely going mental for days. I had one wave where I took off in front of Cheron's house and got tubed through Impossibles. (A very rare occurrence)

It was bonkers. I kicked out at Tubes and paddled into the very next wave and got absolutely thumped. I got out and told my girlfriend that I can stop surfing now coz I'll never get a wave like that ever again.

Fast forward 24 hours. I was standing at the gulley and Dave Lipschitz tells me to jump. So I jump. All 3 fins pulled out of the board. Wetsuit torn to pieces. Mother Nature gives in abundance but she takes too.

[Robbie Stewart]

1 hour ago, Duane_Bosch said:

My folks used to live in J Bay. One time I went up there and it was absolutely going mental for days. I had one wave where I took off in front of Cheron's house and got tubed through Impossibles. (A very rare occurrence)

It was bonkers. I kicked out at Tubes and paddled into the very next wave and got absolutely thumped. I got out and told my girlfriend that I can stop surfing now coz I'll never get a wave like that ever again.

Fast forward 24 hours. I was standing at the gulley and Dave Lipschitz tells me to jump. So I jump. All 3 fins pulled out of the board. Wetsuit torn to pieces. Mother Nature gives in abundance but she takes too.

So January 1996 I drive to JBay with my then girlfriend and a mate for the day for a paddle. Passing Wilderness I see the waves are stacked to the horizon with proper size. these were the pre-internet / surf forecast days - it was a pure gut feel.

Anyway, I pull into the parking lot later that morning and suit up and run to the keyhole. Some locals are standing there timing the jump. It's proper double overhead J-Bay. I jump in with the locals, duck some 8 foot white water and make it to the back. I wait in the line at Boneyards, and see a wide one sneak through. Everyone is riding 7' plus guns. I'm on my 6'8" Hot Buttered.

I turn and paddle in. I make the take-off and drop into the wave of my life. I kick out past Point and try and paddle up to the top again. 2 hours later I'm spent and exit to the beach.

Best day of surfing I can remember. On the drive back I pass Wilderness again and see the lines are still stacked. I detour to Vicbay and paddle out for a few. Its proper Vic 8 foot breaking on the rock beyond Rod Hossack's place. I catch the first wave, get a couple turns in and then fall on a floater. As I pop out the back I find my leash is snapped and the board is being wrecked on the rocks by the pier.

What a day. That was another stand out.

[Duane_Bosch]

Down the beach the other day. Small day but still fun. I got chomped on both of these.

Edited February 7, 2023 by Duane_Bosch