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About Surfing.


'Dale

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Grew up in Jbay and never learned to  surf  :blush: (Although I  did bodyboard) Didn't have a surf board or the interest back then. Would like to give it a try though, I think my balance is also much better now.

 

The surfers had some gross initiation practices.

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I got my bell properly rung on Saturday. Yassas. I think I was lucky not to pass out and thank goodness i was wearing a hoodie.

 

Pulled into a barrel at Crons and my board got sucked out from under me and bliksemmed me in the side of the head. Dizzy. Game over. Home time.

 

How's the ol' head feeling today, DB?

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How's the ol' head feeling today, DB?

All good. Luckily it's mostly empty space in there. I can feel there's swelling in my ear and a bit of "tenderness" between my ear and jawbone but that's about it.

 

These things are good for you. You have to know you aren't made of glass and there's only one way to test that.

 

I think it's time to reacquaint myself with Dunes

Edited by Duane_Bosch
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Just a note about the correct name of a surf spot.

 

The high tide beachie to the north of the Long Beach main peak. It offers up nice tubes at high tide and the odd ramp. Especially if the swell is a little broken up.

 

The name of this surf spot is NOT Kraans,Krans, Craans.

 

 

It's Crons. The name does not come from the chronic nature of the takeoff or the kraans that you drop into. It comes from the name of the old Crons dairy which was owned by the Cronwright family, located where the Valleyland shopping centre now is. Their dairy herds used to float between Sunvalley and where Immoff's farm is now. And surfers would often spot the herd on the way to Long Beach.

 

 

post-83454-0-35933400-1599562069_thumb.jpg

Edited by Duane_Bosch
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I used to body board alot there, when I could still see without my specs. 

 

Just a note about the correct name of a surf spot.

 

The high tide beachie to the north of the Long Beach main peak. It offers up nice tubes at high tide and the odd ramp. Especially if the swell is a little broken up.

 

The name of this surf spot is NOT Kraans,Krans, Craans.

 

 

It's Crons. The name does not come from the chronic nature of the takeoff or the kraans that you drop into. It comes from the name of the old Crons dairy which was owned by the Cronwright family, located where the Valleyland shopping centre now is. Their dairy herds used to float between Sunvalley and where Immoff's farm is now. And surfers would often spot the herd on the way to Long Beach.

 

 

attachicon.gif2593895_151107194744_20151107194743-0.jpg

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Great looking Bougainvillia :ph34r:

Hahahaha, thank thing was planted when my folks built the house in the 60's...ate many tennis balls and hid the neighbourhood cats....once fell down during one of PE's legendary storm floods!

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Some surf silverware....EP Champ, Varsity Team champ (UPE), Varsity Individual Champ (UPE) ....'85 was a good year!!! :clap:

attachicon.gifChamp.jpg

Pottz or Dane?

 

My one board had a pink lightning flash design based on a T&C that I saw Matt Archbold riding in a movie called Amazing Surf Stories

Edited by Duane_Bosch
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Pottz or Dane?

 

My one board had a pink lightning flash design based on a T&C that I saw Matt Archbold riding in a movie called Amazing Surf Stories

I landed a "sponsorship" with the guys from T&C/CHP in Durban at the time...pretty sure Graham Smith was shaping under their label back then) and was "given" a few boards ie I paid for them but not full price!! This was the best of the lot but I did blow out the back fin, you can see the repairs to the box...another was a green and black quad, also cool but didn't have the same down-the-line drive...Unfortunately, I lost this "rainbow" one...flew off the roof of my yellow Passat station wagon...forgot to tie it down when leaving the Seal's carpark!!!!!!! 

I found some footage of a day at Bruces that year, May, 1985, cooking...I'm trying to recover it with editing cause its a really bad copy of a bad VHS video but here are some frame grabs of the Rainbow flying!...some legends out that day..Trevor Hansen, Larry Levin, Richard McDonald (goofy), Karl Weischtra, Greg Smith, Bradley Wanwig, David Gelderbloem, Neville Hulett...as soon as I got the best edit out, I'll post it...it's Bruces when the dune was still there and there was no harbour to stop the swell at the top of then point, Santarem was a twinkle in a developer's eye and if the Kromme flooded you were stuck in St Francis!!!

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post-35907-0-38218900-1600083853_thumb.png

Edited by capediver
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Duane, I use 'Surf Ears' and they work.

 

After years and years of punk concerts, playing loud music, being mashed around in the sea etc I have 2 permanently perforated ear drums, very limited hearing in my right ear, a twisted ear canal in my left ear and pretty bad tinitis, they seem to have 'stopped the rot' while allowing some sound in you don't feel 'off balance' like you do with the cheap stuff.

 

IMHO they are worth the spend.

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Good luck getting out there without a ski at that size.

 

I surfed Ulu's at high tide and paddling out of the mouth of that cave is one of those seminal moments as a surfer. Forget the fact that it stinks of piss and the locals are harrasing your bird for massage, braid your hair, hashish, cocacola, caps, watches, pay for parking etc etc etc etc.

 

Like jumping off the point at Supers for the first time. Except supers is about 4000% cleaner.

 

Another Seminal moment is hanging your bike on the Chavannes lift in Les Gets and seeing the trail below you and spotting Mont Blanc through the trees.

Edited by Duane_Bosch
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I got my bell properly rung on Saturday. Yassas. I think I was lucky not to pass out and thank goodness i was wearing a hoodie.

 

Pulled into a barrel at Crons and my board got sucked out from under me and bliksemmed me in the side of the head. Dizzy. Game over. Home time.

About a year ago my brother had the same thing, only difference was it was the nose of the board and it hit him in the face.

He called me to say he needs to be taken to a doctor, blood was pouring out of the gaping hole in his face.

So I rushed off to pick him up and get him to hospital. We arrive and he proceeds to tell the security guard that I did that to him thinking he is a funny bugger... next thing I have the security guards wanting to keep me there until the police arrive!!

He had to explain nicely to some very unimpressed security guards that he was joking.

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