Appropriate chainring size

[Scott roy]

Hi all. Ever since I rebuilt my bike with lighter components I’ve felt it just wants to go faster and faster. I’m currently running a 36t chainring with Sram xx1 10-50t cassette. I have a hard time on serious climbs so I want to go to a smaller chainring like a 34t but I am afraid of loosing out on my top speed. then on flats my 36t feels to small and I want a 38t chainring so I’m wondering should I go the 38t direction and maybe get out the saddle more on climbs or the 34t option and loose my top speed a bit? I’ve also thaught of going oval but I am not to sure about it’s benefits and loses

[dasilvarsa]

You already have The Ultimate Drive Train.

[Jbr]

if you have a hard time on climbs then go 34T, it's pointless peddaling like crazy on downhills to go +2/3km/h imo, you're going to lose a bit on something that doesn't make much of a difference, and gain on something that can make a massive difference. Or you get stronger and own that 36T   

[Nico van Loggerenberg]

Hmmm, chainring too big for the climbs, too small for top speed... If only... someone invented a kind of chainring that had two different sizes.. maybe with a device to switch between them?

[Super Sywurm]

if you have a hard time on climbs then go 34T, it's pointless peddaling like crazy on downhills to go +2/3km/h imo, you're going to lose a bit on something that doesn't make much of a difference, and gain on something that can make a massive difference. Or you get stronger and own that 36T

I second this 100%.

[Scott roy]

if you have a hard time on climbs then go 34T, it's pointless peddaling like crazy on downhills to go +2/3km/h imo, you're going to lose a bit on something that doesn't make much of a difference, and gain on something that can make a massive difference. Or you get stronger and own that 36T

[Scott roy]

Thanks. That’s what I’ve been wondering if it’s better to climb faster and then go a bit slower on flats or downhills or climb even slower but blast flats

[Super Sywurm]

Thanks. That’s what I’ve been wondering if it’s better to climb faster and then go a bit slower on flats or downhills or climb even slower but blast flats

Where are you from?

[Super Sywurm]

36T oval maybe?

[Eugene]

Hmmm, chainring too big for the climbs, too small for top speed... If only... someone invented a kind of chainring that had two different sizes.. maybe with a device to switch between them?

Where is the like button?

[sirmoun10goat]

Thanks. That’s what I’ve been wondering if it’s better to climb faster and then go a bit slower on flats or downhills or climb even slower but blast flats

 

The type of riding and terrain will dictate this

 

Also, work on your cadence if you are spinning out - unless you are spinning at the max cadence humanly possibly (whatever this may be), you have room to improve

 

An chainring/gearing is not all about top/bottom end - it affect the torgue and how yo lay the power own. A smaller chain ring wi lead to less torgue, which reduces the chances of making the back wheel slip on lose terrain.

[Eugene]

34/50? Your legs will be spinning like crazy.

 

Call me old fashioned, but if you are struggling on the hills, you don't need easier gears, you need to train harder.

[Scott roy]

Where are you from?

I’m from Pretoria. I ride out in zwavelspoort side

[Jbr]

Hmmm, chainring too big for the climbs, too small for top speed... If only... someone invented a kind of chainring that had two different sizes.. maybe with a device to switch between them?

Hahaha

[Scott roy]

Hmmm, chainring too big for the climbs, too small for top speed... If only... someone invented a kind of chainring that had two different sizes.. maybe with a device to switch between them?

I have considered going back to 2x but my frame is 1x specific

[Super Sywurm]

I’m from Pretoria. I ride out in zwavelspoort side

I personally would ride a 34T in PTA.