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Rear MTB tyre rubbing against frame.


Leon O

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I need some assistance please. Rear tyre is just about rubbing against frame on brake side. I have found that when doing some rougher terrain, the wheel axle seems to "relocate" slightly, causing rubbing of tyre against frame. Although properly tightened and settled into frame location. The tyre size is 29x2.25. The gap difference between chain side and brake side is clearly visible, and is about 2mm from frame on brake side. What can be done to bring the rim more to the center - re-align with spokes?

 

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Maybe the drive side might need a chain tensioner depending on the age of the frame. This will keep the wheel from slipping away from its tighter position and help keep the axle from falling out of alignment. DM if you don’t come right.

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4 hours ago, splat said:

Does the rear wheel have a thru axle or QR skewer ?

 

Exactly what I thought…

also, not saying OP doesn't know or it even is QR….but you’d be shocked how many people don’t know how to properly use a QR lever. This kind of sounds like something i’ve seen before👀
 

that or the bike is TA but has sliding drop outs which are slipping.

@Leon O, share a pic of the rear axle / drop-out ?

Edited by MORNE
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9 hours ago, MORNE said:

that or the bike is TA but has sliding drop outs which are slipping.

My suspicion also. Dishing on a wheel does'nt go out by "fluke" and OP states that the wheel runs true. Assuming the wheel runs perfectly fine in another frame, the only problem must then be frame related.

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1 hour ago, Mook said:

My suspicion also. Dishing on a wheel does'nt go out by "fluke" and OP states that the wheel runs true. Assuming the wheel runs perfectly fine in another frame, the only problem must then be frame related.

If it aint the wheel, its the frame..🤷🏼‍♂️

simple enough, but then again we are talking about bicycles.. sooo

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If you put the wheel in the frame and the alignment is correct but after riding awhile it goes out the dropouts could be worn out. I think there is a way to machine the drop out correctly.

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19 hours ago, splat said:

Does the rear wheel have a thru axle or QR skewer ?

 

It has a QR skewer. The wheel does not buckle, and I will be checking the dropouts next. 

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19 minutes ago, Leon O said:

It has a QR skewer. The wheel does not buckle, and I will be checking the dropouts next. 

Please don’t take this the wrong way or anything. I’m not questioning your intelligence either, i’m just covering all basis.

please have a look at this: around 1:30 ish

that's the proper wat to use a QR skewer. Ignore the fact that it’s a road bike and a front wheel. It’s the same for any.  
I've seen too many people use the ‘wing’ of the skewer as a lever to try and tighten down the axle like a normal bolt. It wont work and WILL slip like you are describing. 
 

hopefully is something ‘dumb’ like this and nothing more serious that needs more fixing.

 

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3 hours ago, Leon O said:

It has a QR skewer. The wheel does not buckle, and I will be checking the dropouts next. 

Ok, so that helps explain the 'relocation' that you mentioned.
The wheel must be slipping slightly under braking (disc).
This is one of the reasons the thru axles came about.

It sounds like you need to generate more clamping force and friction through the QR skewer to stop that slippage.

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Its already been mentioned, but I'm placing my money on a worn drop out. 

Someone mentioned dishing your wheel. I don't think that is the issue here, but dishing may actually help. With time the dropout will wear more and you'll be back where you were. 

You don't mention what the dropouts are made of, but carbon dropouts have a reputation for wearing. 

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On 10/31/2024 at 6:06 PM, betaboy said:

Maybe the drive side might need a chain tensioner depending on the age of the frame. This will keep the wheel from slipping away from its tighter position and help keep the axle from falling out of alignment. DM if you don’t come right.

Huh? 

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