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Posted
On 1/5/2025 at 9:16 PM, W@nted said:

Thanks for the replies. I have had no slippage or creaks from the d fuse seatpost. Made sure it has carbon paste on all the contact areas and insert the front and rear wedges as per the instructions (small lip of wedge outside the frame) and torqued to spec.

I checked my pedals and swopped my spd pedals with my favero road power meter pedals. Creaking noise still there. 
 

I am pretty certain that the noise is from the rear through axle. When I loosen the axle it gives a loud creak and then quietens when I tighten it. 

I’ve fixed my Revolts creak. Removed the crankset. Cleaned and greased the crank spindle and the creak is gone. Weird thing is the bike is only a few months old and there was some rust on the crap crankset spindle that comes on the Advanced pro 2. 

Posted

I have never had this problem before, but a known Shimano Hollowtec crankarm issue is delamination of the crankarm structure ............................ result is the inevitable complete snap of the arm. There are threads on the www about this issue.

I am not implying that this is the case with your Revolt. Just something to park in the back of your head. 

Has this happened to anybody here?

Posted
1 hour ago, SSCC said:

I’ve fixed my Revolts creak. Removed the crankset. Cleaned and greased the crank spindle and the creak is gone. Weird thing is the bike is only a few months old and there was some rust on the crap crankset spindle that comes on the Advanced pro 2. 

Riding on the beach again?

Seriously saw a guy riding a new Cannondale through the shallows at Churchaven a few weeks ago.....

Posted
On 1/6/2025 at 10:09 AM, Mongoose! said:

bike has a flip swich - to change the wheel base of bike

It is two small plates bolted into each other - maybe remove both sides from frame - clean and re grease them / lock tight.

Also ensure the hanger is secure - mine rattled lose after some heavy corrugation / sinkplaat roads after a while. 

 

Bit off topic ...

 

When flipping those chips, must the brakes be repositioned ?  Hanger ?

Posted
3 hours ago, SSCC said:

I’ve fixed my Revolts creak. Removed the crankset. Cleaned and greased the crank spindle and the creak is gone. Weird thing is the bike is only a few months old and there was some rust on the crap crankset spindle that comes on the Advanced pro 2. 

Just had a guy asking me to replace the bb on his mtb because it was making a noise . It was one of the headset bearings .

Have had lots of wild goose chases after noises . 

Posted
6 hours ago, SSCC said:

I’ve fixed my Revolts creak. Removed the crankset. Cleaned and greased the crank spindle and the creak is gone. Weird thing is the bike is only a few months old and there was some rust on the crap crankset spindle that comes on the Advanced pro 2. 

Well done!

I get a recurring creak on my Cannondale Supersix Evo (roadbike). I use a Wheels Manufacturing thread together BB with Shimano 10 speed cranks.

The BB has a thin o ring each side on the portion that goes into the frame but I have added a very thin one on each side as I think it creaks where the faces of the BB contacts the frame.

The rust could be from washing and underlubed in the build process? I've had a Rockshox fork underoiled from new and Enduro bearings with less than adequate grease in from new.

Good luck!

 

 

Posted

If you think it’s the rear axle, I suggest you try run a washer on the driver side and see if that might eliminate the problem, otherwise check the rear hub for any out of place wear. Sometimes the hub can creak under cassette torque. Let us know how you go…

Posted
5 hours ago, Baracuda said:

Riding on the beach again?

Seriously saw a guy riding a new Cannondale through the shallows at Churchaven a few weeks ago.....

There are several races in Europe that the course go onto beaches, the guy was properly training for just that. 🤓

Posted
3 hours ago, ChrisF said:

 

Bit off topic ...

 

When flipping those chips, must the brakes be repositioned ?  Hanger ?

On certain bikes you gotta do it. As you introducing new dimensions. What would be more interesting is, do riders actually utilise this feature? 🤔

Posted
8 hours ago, Mook said:

I have never had this problem before, but a known Shimano Hollowtec crankarm issue is delamination of the crankarm structure ............................ result is the inevitable complete snap of the arm. There are threads on the www about this issue.

I am not implying that this is the case with your Revolt. Just something to park in the back of your head. 

Has this happened to anybody here?

My bike developed a creak at some point. I couldn’t not find the source. I was cycling one day and I felt my right foot twist. Looked down and saw my DuraAce crank had snapped.

Free warranty replacement. And just like that, the creak was gone.

Posted (edited)

I loosened the rear through axle slightly. Now it is quiet. Will need to see how long it stays quiet though.

 

will report back after this weekends ride

Edited by W@nted
Posted

When reading your post I was reminded of a similar story that puzzled my brother who owns a large bike shop in Austria 

The owner of the bike said it took around 50km to start noticing the sound 

 

It turned out to be the welding inside the frame just heating up and rubbing and causing the creaking 

It was solved by using deep penetrating grease on the inside of frame weld points 

The problem was immediately solved.

The bike manufacturer rep was the person who told him about the fix, and it was not an isolated incident 

Might not be your issue but thought I would mention 

Posted
14 hours ago, Mook said:

but a known Shimano Hollowtec crankarm issue is delamination of the crankarm structure ............................ result is the inevitable complete snap of the arm. There are threads on the www about this issue.

GRX crank arms are solid and not bonded together. The issue you referring to is only for road cranks (Ultegra and Dura Ace)?

Posted
52 minutes ago, Zebra said:

Never even THOUGHT of this - needing to change disk caliper position - when ‘flip-chipping’; of course it NOW makes sense, ah, the complexities (yet customisability!) of modern life!

 

Looking at the bike it was clear the caliper had to move.

 

Not that obvious how ...

 

THANKS @thebob

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