Post your mtb SS

[Wyatt Earp]

It's a steel frame Azonic Steelhead. Got the inspiration from you.

Ah, I see.

Looks like alloy tubing from the pic   

[Ryanpmb]

Updated the ENVEs. Replaced old decals with new ones...

 

[the nerd]

Updated the ENVEs. Replaced old decals with new ones...

 

Niner SS.jpg

 

Shame...

[Ryanpmb]

Shame...

 

Need to do something about the dodgey saddle! 

[the nerd]

Need to do something about the dodgey saddle! 

 

Ya flip man, gross.. ha ha

[Flowta]

question to the foondies, i've recently changed the chain and chainring on my SS, thanks to Bogus for the excellent spray job on my cranks, as well as supplying me with a rapide NW chanring. I bought a SS chain, but what i'm seeing now is that there is uneven tension on the chain, almost as if i were running a Q or O ring, anyone experience this before...

 

I'm gonna do process of elimination, put old chain back see, put old chainring back see... but what are the other possibilities?

 

Sounds like the chainring or the mounting of the chainring is slightly out.

 

From Sheldon Brown (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension)

 

Centering Chainwheels

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/oldeng24/t.gifhe chain tension on a fixed gear is quite critical, and is regulated by moving the rear axle back and forth in the forkends. If the chain is too tight, the drivetrain will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, which is quite dangerous on a fixed gear.

Set the rear axle so that the chain pulls taut at the tightest part of the cranks' rotation. One at a time, loosen up each of the stack bolts, and tighten it back just finger tight. Spin the crank slowly and watch for the chain to get to its tightest point. Strike the taut chain lightly with a convenient tool to make the chain ring move a bit on its spider. Then rotate the crank some more, finding the new tightest spot, and repeat as necessary.

This takes a little bit of your hands' learning how hard to hit the chain, and how loose to set the stack bolts, but it is really quite easy to learn.

Tighten up the stack bolts a bit and re-check. Tighten the stack bolts in a regular pattern, like the lug nuts on a car wheel. My standard pattern is to start by tightening the bolt opposite the crank, then move clockwise 2 bolts (144 degrees), tighten that one, clockwise 2 more, and so on. Never tighten two neighboring bolts in a row. You may prefer to go counterclockwise, but try to get in the habit of always starting at the same place and always going the same way. This reduces the chances of accidentally missing a bolt.

Once you have the chainrings centered and secured, adjust the position of the rear axle to make the chain as nearly tight as possible without binding. Notice how freely the drive train turns when the chain is too loose. That is how freely it should turn when you are done, but with as little chain droop as possible.

 

 

Believe it or not Biopace works because the number of teeth in contact with the chain remains the same.

 

Once again check what Sheldon has to say

http://sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html

 

Not 100% sure about Q-rings but I think it's the same.

[Meezo]

Are you sure the chain is not a directional chain? It may not be running smoothly if it is upside down or the wrong way around. That is all I can think of!!!

So Saturday i rode it at Contemans and it was absolutely terrible. When i got home i put a 10spd chain i had lying around and used it this morning it was fine. It still does seem abit like it, but definitely rideable and unnoticed...

 

The crank's i had redone by the master, BogusOne. My other assumption is that paint might just offset the chainring ever so slightly causing this...

 

I'm also gonna try putting my 20T back on the rear and see maybe it eliminates completely!

Sounds like the chainring or the mounting of the chainring is slightly out.

 

From Sheldon Brown (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension)

Centering Chainwheels

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/oldeng24/t.gifhe chain tension on a fixed gear is quite critical, and is regulated by moving the rear axle back and forth in the forkends. If the chain is too tight, the drivetrain will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, which is quite dangerous on a fixed gear.

Set the rear axle so that the chain pulls taut at the tightest part of the cranks' rotation. One at a time, loosen up each of the stack bolts, and tighten it back just finger tight. Spin the crank slowly and watch for the chain to get to its tightest point. Strike the taut chain lightly with a convenient tool to make the chain ring move a bit on its spider. Then rotate the crank some more, finding the new tightest spot, and repeat as necessary.

This takes a little bit of your hands' learning how hard to hit the chain, and how loose to set the stack bolts, but it is really quite easy to learn.

Tighten up the stack bolts a bit and re-check. Tighten the stack bolts in a regular pattern, like the lug nuts on a car wheel. My standard pattern is to start by tightening the bolt opposite the crank, then move clockwise 2 bolts (144 degrees), tighten that one, clockwise 2 more, and so on. Never tighten two neighboring bolts in a row. You may prefer to go counterclockwise, but try to get in the habit of always starting at the same place and always going the same way. This reduces the chances of accidentally missing a bolt.

Once you have the chainrings centered and secured, adjust the position of the rear axle to make the chain as nearly tight as possible without binding. Notice how freely the drive train turns when the chain is too loose. That is how freely it should turn when you are done, but with as little chain droop as possible.

 

Believe it or not Biopace works because the number of teeth in contact with the chain remains the same.

 

Once again check what Sheldon has to say

http://sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html

 

Not 100% sure about Q-rings but I think it's the same.

[the nerd]

So Saturday i rode it at Contemans and it was absolutely terrible. When i got home i put a 10spd chain i had lying around and used it this morning it was fine. It still does seem abit like it, but definitely rideable and unnoticed...

 

The crank's i had redone by the master, BogusOne. My other assumption is that paint might just offset the chainring ever so slightly causing this...

 

I'm also gonna try putting my 20T back on the rear and see maybe it eliminates completely!

 

I have a feeling the SS chain is too thick and wide for the N/W ring...

[Meezo]

I have a feeling the SS chain is too thick and wide for the N/W ring...

 

This is/was my initial thoughts...

[the nerd]

This is/was my initial thoughts...

 

I have always used 8spd chains, i find the SS ones are to hefty for normal chain rings..

[Hairy]

Need to do something about the dodgey saddle!

that saddle would look great on my on one

[Ryanpmb]

that saddle would look great on my on one

It's not going anywhere I'm afraid. Most comfortable saddle I own.

[Ryanpmb]

I have always used 8spd chains, i find the SS ones are to hefty for normal chain rings..

What he said. My 8spd has never given me issues over many many kms...

[Meezo]

What he said. My 8spd has never given me issues over many many kms...

Fair enough, but running with NW Chainring as well?

[Ryanpmb]

Fair enough, but running with NW Chainring as well?

 

No. NW is unnecessary on a SS. 

[Monark]

Update, my bars, stem and grips arrived from Sprocket & Jack. Waiting on my saddle from Velobrein and my seat post from Ritchey