Mecnic

Hi I have prototyped a tool to remove the seal head inside the Iso Strut would anyone be interested in a tool like this? It is 3d printed and a local bike shop has tested the prototypes and they have been working well. Cheers Jean Design.mp4

I have never encountered this before: When in the 36 and 24 combination and I attempt to shift up to the 38 the chain just rides the pick ups and doesn't shift up, When I compensate with the barrel adjuster and limit screws to compensate the chain falls to the outside when in the shifting from the front 24 to 38 and the rear cassette is on the 11. I have checked everything obvious, but are still open to suggestions. The set up is as follows a X7 2x10 front mech direct highmount on a Trance X frame, the previous set up was exactly the same except it was a conventional front der and frame set up and worked perfectly with out fail. Here are my last ditch ideas: The chain could be to short causing to much tension to shift up? The front mech could be bent open wider than it should? Let's hear what you guys think.

Contact Omnico, Many of the warranty frames are warehoused in Cape Town and eventually taken for scrap recycling. Contact them maybe they can help out or point you in the right direction.

Oddly enough I have had request at my work shop to remove the remote lockout and make it a manual. It is easy to go from non remote to remote, all you do is remove the non remote and install the remote the reverse is a more difficult option you remove the return spring and keep it safe (in case he want to go back) it is cheaper as no new damper is needed but the mech needs to know what he is doing. (Voids warranty as well)

It's one of these depending on travel etc http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=54652 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=54651

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=45319 maybe this helps

Have you looked at Chain reaction they sell or use to sell Viper?

the Agents for rock shox is Cape Cycle Systems also in CPT

Post a picture of the bolt, maybe something can be sourced at a local bolt shop

I have a 24l Compressor and it works just fine for tubeless can even fill up my cars tires as well

What about Boeshield t9 it's available from the Bicicletta fire sale Contact shamus or check their website: Bicicletta

The FIT is basically a self contained dampening system. Main differences are: It's lighter (Less Oil) It uses different oil which does cavitate as much The FIT cartridge ha rebound lockout, low speed compression and lockout force adjustment Read more Click me Click on the technology and then the FIT icon and it explains there

Hinges are available, contact your optom to order some for you

Contact Trek SA (Think it Just fun or something like that) they have supplied a local shop with an adaptor like that

The rubber seal could trap dirt in the grease (which works its way out) and act as a grinding paste on the rotating axle. Saw this on a rubber cover over a disk brake lever push rod, almost ate it clean through. Is just a theory though.

OOPS Overlooked that point, ja 1.5" all the way is un-adaptable sorry bud

I have also seen a adapter the cup actually sits outside the 1/1/8th head tube to accomodate the enlarged steerer only the bottom bit is 1.5" Cane creek makes it its called the xx44 read more here XX44 information

They could fail and cause an injury safer to replace. The new Stans is ammonia free its the so called "Eco friendly" version I am currently using that, most will agree anything ammonia free

The tyre has de-laminated, probably from ammonia based sealant Kenda's are quite prone to this. New Maxxis tyres even have a warning stating warranty void if used with Ammonia based sealant

I've never heard of a dry weld, have you checked the following: Saddle rails, including at the clamp area and where the rails go into the saddle itself? Headset bearing contact surfaces Pedal interfaces Handlebar and stem contact points Loose bolts on the brakes maybe The above are just a few place creaks can come from. my saddle creaks every now and then, some wax lube where the rails meet the saddle sorts it. Is the creaks constant or only when you pedal, is it still there when you stand?

There is air somewhere in the system The brakes need to be re-bled, properly, what can happen is air is trapped in the darkest corners of the system and works its way loose when you ride again entering the hose. As the above post stated when stored vertically air rises to the highest point usually in the hose just before the lever I had that problem and a qick bleed sorted it out.

The warrentee is usually 5 years so its a claim for sure. Contact the bike shop where you bought it and have them process a claim.

There is a shop in Bloemfontein which has stock of 2.1 High rollers. Contact Cycle World 051 448 0422

I use to use Latex gloves, however have switched to nitrile also available at dischem (they are more expensive) however the nitrile is chemical proof and a tougher glove. I made the switch after going through about 3 pairs every time I handled DOT or even mineral oil (it seemed to eat the latex) Nitrile gloves you can reuse the chemicals do nothing to it. Its not realy about the dirt aspect as the chemicals lkind of eating my skin.

I use a stock standard 24l tank compressor which pumps to 8bar in the tank before I release any air. Seating tubeless tires needs a sudden burst of higher volume air, the pump isn't fast enough for instance on my compressor if it runs down to where the pressure switch turns it on again i wait until the tank is full enough again (usually over 6 bar in the tank)