CaptainDura

Johan How do you know your cones/cups are damaged and know not to just replace the bearings but the cones/cups as well. if i know this i will know whether or not i need to order some grade 5 balls from you ?

What nonsense, I did the 2009 epic including all the training before, and most of the mtb rides since then up to today and i have had zero problems with the anthem x1. It is now officially 2 years old and still in pristine condition. The suspension is still working 100%. I had my fork serviced after the epic and that was it. ill service my fork and shock again end of this year , and im doing the epic 2011 with the same bike again. its that good.

Oh and one more quick tip on applying waxed based lube like squirt: apply the lube to the chain one link at a time (inside or outside) while the chain is not moving. then turn the rollers with your finger while the chain is not moving. this gets the lube right into the rollers onto the pins where it is needed. now move the chain around to get to the next section. repeat. clean off excess with a rag. Do not just turn your cranks and apply the lube while the chain is moving. this wastes a lot of lube and it gets onto the chainrings, cassette and jockey wheels. The lube needs to be on the pins under the rollers for the best possible results. No matter whether you use oil or wax, clean off the excess as best you can afterwards. your chain will thank you for it.

I think you answered your own question: In your case it was most definitely the dirt/mud and lack of lubrication. Most probably you did not apply enough lube to the chain. (i also did lourensford the weekend with Squirt with no chainsuck). It got washed away by all the mud and water and caused your chain to become dry and inflexible with stiff joints(pins and rollers) Wet races demands a lot from your chain and only if you applied enough lube in the right places will it hold up. Eventually though it will wash off and then you need to listen to the telltale sign of a dry chain. as soon as it starts to creak you need to apply lube again. This happens to all kinds of lube. I have used finishline(green cap) on wet races where it was so muddy and wet that i needed to reapply after 28kms. so it really depends on the race, the terrain and the mud/watercrossings. the best thing you can do is to always make sure you carry extra lube. you never know when you might need it.

Ok im in.

correct it was probably exactly 6:45

If anyone has some bright ideas of how to go about making an example of the busdriver, ill be happy to oblige. legally that is of course!

Hey guys, one bus hits you and the next thing you know theres a thread about you on the hub... Thanks to everyone for all the wellwishes. I am fine with a couple of minor injuries and bruises and a bit stiff, but luckily no broken bones or anything more serious. The bus actually hit me from the left front and my left hand and helmet took most of the impact. The guy must have seen me at the last moment and i think he braked hard before hitting me otherwise it might have been a different story. attached is a picture taken by a friendly bystander right after it happened.

I have had mine on since December 2008. Did a lot of mileage and one epic since then. No problems and rock solid

When new members try to register they get this error Access Deniedforum_images/open_folder_icon.gif thehubsa.co.za - cycling forums : Access Denied "Insufficient permissions to access this page." Can someone have a look at this asap

Yes Or for bikes that does not come equipped with full cable routing for the front and rear derailers ie they have cable stops. this fits into the cable stop and clamps the full cable housing. by the way you can file the ends off the clamp a bit if your cable is a bit thin for a tight fit. this way the clamp will fit snugly.

Hey ronelle nice pic of my son and the government. do you maybe have any of my son waving the checkered flag by any chance ??

I think your wrong' date=' with leg length they mean inseam. 1)For most people the inseam * 109% is slightly too high. And you want to tell me you want to multiply the LEG LENGTH by 109%??? 2)Why would they post a tutorial on how to set saddle height when it requires X-Rays. That just doesnt cut it for me im sorry.[/quote'] Let's see what does cut it: Are you using the Rivendell method of inseam measurement? Are you measuring to pubic symphysis or soft tissue? Are you aware that the original studies (before LeMond and used by Eddie Borysevich in the early seventies) did in fact use 106 - 109% of full leg length measurement? Are you aware of the actual difference in measurements between pubic symphysis and greater trochanter? As I mentioned earlier, measurements are imprecise, formulae for achieving saddle height even more so. I suggested seeing a decent, qualified fitter. Your choice I suppose but measure and multiply as much as you like - it is just a general ballpark and forms a small part of an overall bike fitting. Take your LEG LENGTH and multiplay that by 109%, then post the pick so whe all can have a laugh at your hips rocking like a hippo. I have never seen a hippo rock !!

i have had mine for 3 years and never have any problems like that. have it looked at.

Ok after opening up the rear wheel bearings the disc side was still in pristine condition. no dirt or water in there and there were still enough very clean grease in there. The drive side had some contamination in the grease, ie the ghrease has discolored from clear to brown. there were still enough grease in there nonetheless. so i cleaned it all out, added new clean waterproof grease and put it all together again. good for another couple thousand kms. ps. the front were also still in pristine condition after opening it up. So all in all i guess those seals do a pretty darn good job of keeping the gunk out.

Thanks johan. Not to mention that they are easy to service. This is the first time though i have heard about the disk side seal giving problems. maybe it is a faulty seal or something else. speaking of service, great fork service course last friday. I really enjoyed it and learnt a hell of a lot.

ill open mine up and report back on my findings sometime this week. hopefully it is all still good.

Can you replace the loose bearings with a cartridge bearing ? If so what needs to be done and what is the bearing number ?

You small compared to me' date=' try Killarney for a start, us posers can count how many times we get lapped.[/quote'] Whats the most times you have been lapped. Im also thinking of going to killarney but as i am also aroung 10kg heavier and 20% slower i am looking for a benchmark number to aim for in the beginning

I have ridden a set since january of this year. did my training for the epic and the epic itself on the wheels. they are still running as true and free as when i bought them. You cannot fault these wheels. they truly are very strong and reliable. They are the kind of "set and forget" wheels. well worth the money in my opinion.

Jacques After setting your sag on the front and back shock the next important thing to do is to set the rebound settings. If the forks rebound too quickly, the energy will be used up and the bike will drift wide, or wash. If the rebound is too slow, the bike will tuck under and turn too soon to the inside and thus feel twitchy. play around on a certain corner and adjust the rebound until it feels just right. Im sure with the added psi in the back shock it will already ride a lot better in the turns, and by adjusting the rebound it will be about as perfect as you can get it. if all else fails, get some schwalbe nobby nic tubeless tyres and run them at 2 bar. they really grip. wet or dry.

I think the apology should stand. it takes a big man to accept his mistakes and make a public apology like this. Apology accepted thys.

Maybe not but it will still stop you fd from moving at all.