Gerhard765

The chatting always confuses me. Normally there I am, ready to puke of effort, and those around you are discussing weather... But it definitely does help if you are in a group, you push harder.

I also have a fan blowing directly on Kickr. With all the climbing for TRON bike never had one issue of irregular power readings or cutting out. Would say most of the climbing was done up Epic KOM or Alpe du Zwift. Zwift set to about 70% difficulty to still have fairly close spacing between gears. I weigh 95kg and use a MTB on Kickr.

For some added motivation select the Mt Everest challenge. Keep on going once you reach the 8.8 or so km and work for the Tron bike.

Thanks for the reply.

Hi, just a question on your hub bearings: I had a bearing failure shortly after bike purchasing (2018 Scott spark). The LBS guys pushed VERY hard for me to install full compliment bearings rather than normal ball bearings. I almost had to go the "Luister jy nou f#@@en mooi vir my" route to stop them from doing it. According to me full compliment bearings are not suited for use in hubs or am I missing something?

Hi Keagan, I would check the frame first to ensure that the brake interfaces between the mechanical and hydraulic discs are the same. They will probably be as disc brake interfaces seem fairly standard, but rather just make sure.

Also what I see. It seems to be upside down. But also check printing as other guys suggest. Would recommend to take brake pad out and look at wear rather than guessing from the outside of you think the pad does not cover the disc brake area properly.

Agree, very different. But lets not make this way too technical now. I have access to CFD software. Might play around and see what I get on the wheels and frame when i am bored. My profile will be unfortunately be too large for it.

Cool. No problems. Agree that some of these guys shows some fancy simulations just to impress. My experience is more with vibrations in water than air so I cant help but wonder.

Read my comment. I did not say that this is the cause. As engineer I am curious of what can cause things which should not happen.

Interesting read, thanks for sharing. I don't see that they go into vortex shedding. I could not help but wonder if that is also a cause of induced vibration. Not that I am saying that this is the cause of the OP's "Shimmying" but this is becoming an interesting technical thread to follow. There is some CFD's shown in the Zipp 454 wheel video showing what the vortex shedding can do on wheels. https://youtu.be/9I3pnXWpDvI look at time Look at time 3:40. The vortices will act as sideway forces on your rim. For an example of vortex shedding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OExYy28moc

Penny-Farthing with a 56-11 drivetrain and oversize wheels perhaps...

Have a look at this. It covers a few of the beliefs of pressure washing.

Hi, welcome to MTB'ing. You dont need to spend a fortune on a good helmet. Higher priced helmets are not necessarily safer as a lot of the extra costs does not go for the safety aspects of it. Just get a certified one. I got a few good years from a Bell helmet. The lower end Scott helmets are also good. But it has to sit properly. A very good helmet does not help if it is a poor fit. For your comment on type of riding. The places where I have seen the worst crashes is where you wont expect it, like smooth singletracks or jeep tracks. Friend of mine was in hospital for two days after tumbling on the hill at Wolwespruit, on probably the smoothest easiest piece of flat trail there is...... I still give him grief about it :whistling:.

Hi Shaun, I did the sani2c twice on a hardtail and once on dualsus. With hardtail, only thing that really stood out was on day three, where we rode for a while on old train tracks. The foundation was a bit sensitive there. If you want to also upgrade when going for dualsus go for it, but I dont think you need to buy a dual sus just as you think it is a must for the race. A hardtail can do the race perfectly. There are a few short difficult sections, but overall the race is not technical. With regards to training, just do a search. There are loads of advice on this forum and rest of internet, for training, preparations and what you need during the race (like cirtical spares etc). I see on the sani2c newsletter sent out this morning, there are coaches available to help you over a three month period to ensure you are ready for the race. Have a look at that.

Agree with releasing tension. At the LBS most guys will true the wheel until it is straight with no consideration of the tension in the spokes. I suspect that is why I always had more spokes failing later after having the first one replaced. The cracks in the first post makes me think that either the specific spoke's tension was way too high damaging the rim around the spoke, or there was a defect in the rim where the cracking originated from. The variation in tension, as the wheel turns with weight on it, would result in a crack slowly growing over time.

Running ANT+ since beginning of zwift. Never had issues while there are a lot of complaints of connections dropping.

Worked hard for it, so Tron bike of course. Saw a guy the other day on facebook forum saying he is at 60km of climbing and no sign of tron bike yet. Never selected the challenge... Ouch.

Hi Nick. the form of corrosion you are referring to is galvanic corrosion (where two different materials are in a electrolyte). The difference between the electro-negativity of materials need to be large enough before galvanic corrosion will start. Copper and aluminum alloys are a bit different. Ally sits at -1 to -0.75 and copper at -0.3. With copper being higher it will actually be the aluminum which will corrode away. So I don't agree with sacrificial anode statement as most parts on bicycles are aluminum (for my budget). This could be true (could as I assume that copper slip behaves the same as copper) when you have un-coated aluminium in contact with the copper slip. In most cases the ally parts are anodized and painted. A good paint layer prevents galvanic corrosion. I still use copper slip on my bike and will continue to use it. If there are problems you might see it on areas where the paint was damaged before mating the two parts. The aluminium will corrode away where it was in direct contact with the copper slip. How fast this can happen is difficult to predict but what I can say is that if copper slip was such a big problem it would have received much more attention in the forums. Have a scroll trhoug this link: https://www.corrosionpedia.com/an-introduction-to-the-galvanic-series-galvanic-compatibility-and-corrosion/2/1403 There is table showing the galvanic series of the different materials we normally refer to. Good luck and happy cycling

I believe it is like a location tax for living in Cape town (or discount for living in gauteng). Scenery and riding parks there seems a lot better to me than what we have in Gauteng.

Hi, I bought a kickr 4 and also had to go through a few rounds of replacements. Yes there might be issues if you buy but I have yet to see such good support as what Ikhambi delivers. So even after my 4th replacement I would still buy a kickr as the support is amazing.

I normally remove my wheels when I give the bike a proper wash. You don't always get a good idea when the wheel is in the frame, especially rear wheel. Hold the axle by hand and give the wheel a spin. Feel on the axle if the wheel runs smoothly. Any shuddering or play of axle relative to wheel might need attention. Agree with other guys, so many variables on riding style, terrain, water or dust that its very difficult to put a service interval on wheels (for other moving parts like BB and headset also).

Similar experience. Ordered a tag-along for my daughter from CRC. Delivered 6 days later.

Agree, every person is built differently. Measure sag when just sitting normal on bike. Should be about 25%. Recommended sag for rear is a bit more than or front.

Hi there, not that I know all the details, but syncros hubs are basically DT Swiss hubs. good luck