Mook

Sorry guys, Image would not load. Will try again. Cheers

Rashaaad, Just did the 36ONE Half on this bad boy. My body felt remarkably well afterwards and I must add, apart from the corrugated sections, the 26" wheels kept up with the 29ers pretty well. I have to agree with the other opinions - when all is said and done, the choice is personal. Cheers

Guys, This is bad for everybody involved. Please forgive me if I am stepping on sensitive pink feet and/or toes here, BUT we as cyclists could perhaps do more to be safe. Without generalizing, we have to think on behalf of the drunken or distracted sod behind the wheel of an approaching missile in most cases. I ride the Bottelary road 4 times a week - mornings or afternoons and see perhaps 50-60 riders in groups or solo in a week. What I have noticed way too often are groups riding 3 abreast with number 3 on the right side of the yellow line and the entire group chirping like finches - totally oblivious to the hazard they are creating. This while taxi's and trucks are passing riders without as much as fresh air between vehicle and bicycle. My heart bleeds for everybody whose lives have been ripped to shreds by this and other similar incidents, but please remember that, on a bicycle, you will never win a battle with a motor vehicle. I knew dr Koos Roux who was killed on the Bottelary road a few years ago, where a drunken $*@$* took both him and his son out from behind between the Soneike intersection and Othello retirement village. There is no ways that authorities can stop this phenomenon where people regard themselves fit to drive a vehicle after killing off 99% of their brain matter in one night. Authorities and public transport providers in SA have very little regard or compassion for anybody on a self-driven "two-wheel contraption." We do not pay license fees or road taxes as non-cyclists would fondly argue. Look after yourselves!

Hi all, Interesting topic AND many opinions - all of 'em with some value. I reckon the trick to chain longevity could be the treatment after washing. Any moisture could stay trapped inside the rollers and links for a very long time. What makes this especially bad is engine cleaner etc used to get the old lube off. I soak my chains in paraffin every 4th wash - works out to once every 6 weeks. You'd think your chain is 90-100% clean since it looks clean, but drop that very same chain into paraffin and let it soak for 30min. Shake the container(used salad dressing pot) every 5min or so. The stuff that comes out is black and metallic. This is the gunk trapped inside your chain. The trick is COMPRESSED AIR. Yes, we do not all have access to compressors, but it's Black Friday in 3 week's time. At R2k for a small unit, given the price of drive-train components, you will make a good investment. Plus, you could use the compressor for many other jobs at home. Some solvents remain trapped inside the chain, and these simply destroy any lube you apply after cleaning. Compressed air gets rid of the trapped stuff inside your chain. Give your chain a decent "blow job" to get the paraffin or water out, lube, and you are good to go. Your chains will last long. Yes, there will be those "Friday afternoon" chains that simply wont last. I have been doing the above for about 25 years and it works. DO NOT attempt to blow water off any other part of your steed near bearings or pivots. You WILL destroy your bearings etc in double quick time. My 2 cents' worth

Hi all, Interesting topic this. I was brought up to say "yes, thank you" or "no, thank you", This is a platform for cyclists, by cyclists - hence I reckon we, the cyclists, owe each other a wee bit of respect. Take your entitlement to the kindergarten or the braai fire. Let us show respect and common decency amongst ourselves. Nothing wrong with the question of availability, BUT for crying in a bath tub - have the decency to send the seller a note that you are not interested any longer. Some "buyers" would venture into drawn-out discussions over specs and compatibility - just to disappear into thin air. A slight twist to this topic is the silence you receive when trying to contact sellers via the PM or e-mail portals on TheHub. The Ad is active, but the seller does'nt respond at all and his/her phone number does not show, even when logged in. My 2 cents' worth. Cheers guys

Hi chaps, If you are going road shifters, you will have to: 1) Find a set of old centre-pull cantilever brake calipers. They are short pull and works perfectly with STI shifters. They will also fit your current V-Brake mounts. 2) FD must be replaced with a road FD because the pull ratio of road shifters are different to MTB shifters. This only applies to the front derailleurs. RD shift ratio's are the same for shimano road and MTB. The problem now is that the road FD's are bottom pull where the MTB's are top pull as is evident on your frame. I did a "McGuiver" with a pulley to do the pull direction switch. Will try to upload images. If not, please send me your number so I can whatsapp you the photo's. Christo 0837817772

Guys, Thought I'd report back on the broken chainstay issue. Got a brand new carbon replacement chainstay from Spez. They could not find an aluminum component for a 2012 Epic 29er. Longer dropout pivot bolts were required due to the carbon being bulkier than the alloy. Cost me R4.5k ..... for crying in a bucket At least the carbon unit should last longer than the aluminum under normal conditions...........I guess? Seatstays are alloy, with carbon chainstay. What is your opinions on this? Cheers Mook

Thanx for your time and inputs guys. I appreciate your views and opinions. Regards Mook

Hi Hubbers, Thought I'd share this with you. Perhaps somebody can provide help/guidance/advise, OR tell me to shut up and go away.... Bought a 2012 alu Specialized Epic Comp 29er in 2013. Before paying I pointed out, what appeared as paint cracks on the chainstay near the main pivot. Owner took bike to LBS in Southern suburbs(CPT) where he purchased the bike on 08/11/2011. Manufacturer was supposedly called in to check frame to approve warrantee replacement of rear triangle between 09/10/2013 and 28/10/2013. News back was that it's "ONLY A PAINT CRACK". Issue was on record for future come backs. Took the bike, paid AND.....................23/09/2017, the chainstay snaps right where the "PAINT CRACKS" were. So, back to the original owner I go, he takes it back to the same dealer. A weeks later, I am told that 1) No record whatsoever exist of the 2013 "PAINT CRACK" investigation by either LBS and/or manufacturer; 2) the Limited Lifetime Warrantee(5 years) has expired on the suspension parts. I am getting screwed by somebody, but without an invoice or job card for the 2013 investigation of the "paint crack", I am theoretically on my own...RIGHT? Thanx all Mook

Been using Crossmarks for 4 years now - first 26", now 29". They are bulletproof on any terrain, BUT tyre pressure is key. Riders generally tend to run tyres too hard, especially 29". Let 'em down and watch 'em grip.

Been using Crossmarks for 4 years now - first 26", now 29". They are bulletproof on any terrain, BUT tyre pressure is key. Riders generally tend to run tyres too hard, especially 29". Let 'em down and watch 'em grip.

Vermarc going for approx. R1300. Best by far if you can't afford Ass_s

Thanx all, I will remove them and take it to my LBS(Local Bearing Shop). Your views are appreciated.

Thanx, I am concerned that the inner diameter might have "changed" due to wear. There is a fair amount of play on the rear wheel and I'm not sure if it's simply a case of worn bearing balls. Will take them out in any case and check em. Cheers

Hubbers, I need some advise please. I have a set of Roval Control Trail 29 alluminium wheels with 142mm thru axle standard spec hub and sealed cartridge(12mm) bearings(copied from the spec sheet). Can somebody please give the the sealed bearings simensions/specs. I would like to source them from a local bearing supplier. Also, would u recommend DIY? Thanx

What's wrong with 26" ???? You still have to peddle the damn bike.... Some guy once remarked that "It's not about the bike"

1)No relay........each person goes the full distance or you loose your team's "qualification" status. You will however be timed individually. 2)Entry fee has gone up while the event quality has taken a dive. 3)Still a good one to have under your belt. 4)Done 3 now including the "LangsBaviaans" route in 2011. 5)All logistics must be added to the entry fee, ie. accommodation and transport. 6)Could set you back by about R4k - all inclusive

Gotto agree that you have to try out various brands. EpicPro works well for me on +5 hr rides. Anything less than 4 hr's it does not really do much. The big boys, ie. USN, Biogen, Hammer, etc all push their brand as the best there is, but it comes down to personal EXPERIENCE.

Attitude maketh man !

Have been using this product for about a year now and there is nothing like it on the market at this price. With a good doze of Moducare in the meal, it keeps your imune system boosted and does not spike your energy levels like most instant porridges do before dropping you cold. Sustained energy for long periods, especially if you do >4 hr rides.

Been using the lid mounted P7 myself for 2 years. Excellent value and light intensity. Have used it as sole light source on night time single track rides - great adjustable beam spread. Only negative is the lack of strobe function as an alternative mode. Also use a H/B mounted triple CREE.

From own experience and a lot of discussions with others sufferers, it would seem that overuse is the most common cause and rest the most common fix. Cortisone directly injected into the elbow joint will probably leave you with a few brakemarks in your underware, but the relief is noticible within a short period of time. There's also a product on the market that you put around your forearm that applies pressure on the muscle just underneath the elbow joint. You'll feel the pain go immediately if you apply pressure onto this point with 2 fingers of your hand. It is an elastic band with velcro adjustment for proper fit. It has a small cushion on the inside which you position over the muscle to apply the same pressure as with your hand. It kills the pain effectively, but it's not a fix. DisChem etc stock these Good luck

Got another measurement of 199-200mm which practically confirms your values. Thanx for your assistance. I've enough info to work with. One should've expected some info on the www, but I guess that's why we have thehub. Cheers

Single pivot frame, Yes Your measurement is centre-to-centre between the 2 attachment bolts?

Could somebody please give me the "eye-to-eye" distance for the rear shock on a Raleigh Marathon LTD (18")dual frame. I am populating the frame from scratch and have no reference. Thanx