Cruz Addict

its possible but sounds a bit odd to me, have you adjusted the cleat tension? unlike the Crap brothers pedals the shimano SPD pedals have an adjustable screw that allows you the user to set how tight you want the cleat to be, this doesnt necessarily change the lateral play but if they are extremely loose this may have an effect on the lateral play.

Thats not really a fair comparison. Crc has economies of scale on thier side, a small little sa online shop doesnt make enough profit to cover those kind of expenses. bull****, the lbs is taking you for a ride, contact the agent directly or check with a different shop and confront y The owner of the offending shop. If you still have issues change shops and make it known exactly why.

i have the SB66 and it is awesome, i never really realized just how much until i rode a mates Bronsen. From a suspension perspective i cant say i pushed his bike as hard as i do mine but honestly felt the whole bike was uncomfortable compared to my Yeti( i know different wheel sizes etc but that was my experience). the yeti has a deceptively long top tube so the bike just feels open and free to ride. the bearings on my switch setup basically ceased solid at one point and the bike just felt dead on the trails( i think dirt etc managed to get into the system and i didnt service as i should have so the cease happened).the open system on the sb5c would avoid that i suspect, as the system is just 2 eccentric stanchions with bushings. these will need to be replaced i am sure as time goes on etc but at least there is no closed system for dirt etc to make a home in to the point of failure. i am very interested to see if they are going to push this system to a 160mm version.

sorry just saw this now. nope i dont think i would buy the 2.25, i like very wide rubber and am happy with the width i have i was just referring to the fact that they look very wide. i had MK2's before and the 2,4 was narrower by sight than the HD. they do seem wider than the bronsens but at 2.3 vs 2.35 i would expect that, perhaps not as much a it seems though.

somebody give that man a bells. stupid as *** but brave all the same

i think the answer lies in all of them, my general rule of thumb is go for more, in every situation more is better. 203mm rotors, do i need them, no not really but they look the business. 160mm travel do i use all of it( generally unless i run out of talent) no but it looks the business. big ass fat tires, really needed for what i do?( me i say yes but hey i may just be trying to convince myself)but they look the business. when sitting looking at my steed having coffee i have to suppress "wood" cause my bike looks the frikken busines.. thats about all that counts

read the OP's post that not at all what he said. yes there are 2 sides to every story but if the other side does not venture his version of events he is branded as a coward and likely to be tared as such for the rest of time on the HUB.

who remembers swap shop on the radio? stories being read over the air most nights of the week.

i have several patches inside my tires over the years, i use the normal glue pacth kit things. have even used a pnp cheap bike repair kit and even a small piece of cut tube glued in place before with zero issues. the pressure is pushing the patch onto the tire from the inside out, so i see the patch as being forced on. obviously wait for the glue to dry etc first but my point stands.

Eish not good to see on a Monday morning, sorry about your experience there Legs. personally i dont have tome for the strava idiots on the spruit, have seen too many chops trying to prove they have balls than i care to admit. the Spruit is a fun ride area that i personally think should be treated as such. if you want to train for your Epic/ sani/ etc etc thats fine but understand that other people make us of the same space as you and as its a free ride you have no rights over and above them. this goes for all traffic on the spruit, dog walkers etc as well( i know the leash issue is also a factor) but if you slow down for a dog pet it, have a laugh etc rather than being a dick the spruit will be a better place for it. thats just my 20 billion zim dollars worth anyway. right off to find my flame suit now.

just be careful setting it to the quickest setting there bud, last thing you want on the front of a mtb is a pogo stick thats going to throw you over the bars. personally i set it to its slowest and then back off in 1 click increments to find the fastest slow return( or slowest fast return) i can get, means the fork is absorbing the bumps as it should. ( its a little more complicated that that i know) drop me a pm if you need some help on the setup.

ah ok cool stuff, makes sense.

sorry guys i might be asking a rather silly question but surely the angled headset will put huge strain on the frame? if i look at the geometry of a bike, the headset angles are set due to the ride and feel the designers want to give the rider, the frame is then built around the tolerances set out as part of the design. if you change the angles surely the forces applied to the frame change exponentially?

i have the super and must say its the best lid i have ever owned, super comfortable and has all the features as listed in the review. 1 point you didn't mention( perhaps you didnt know about it) is the bezel can be adjusted up or down depending on your head and fit requirements, there are 2 press studs where the bezel attaches to the lid, i found the std one too high for me so dropped down 1 and it made the world of difference.

i stand corrected, sorry didnt see that.

http://www.easybike.co.za/shimano-slx-disk-brakes-bl-m675-br-m675-set.html http://www.easybike.co.za/shimano-xt-disk-brakes-bl-m785-br-m785-set-black.html

uh i tend to dissagree 9000 are dura-ace road brakes 987 and 988 are XTR not xt( shimano MTB equipment is broken down by series into the hundreds with some overlap. e.g. deor= 61x slx= 67x xt= 7xx xtr= 9xx) in terms of price even if you are importing ( with the exception of a friend bringing stuff in a bag type scenario) easybike is the best price i have seen so far.

no riding on Friday night just seeding and a lot of talking ***. rides are on sat and sunday

lol ah ok after a google search i found the answer. actually didnt think of that before creating this post to be honest.

oh i forget to mention the shuttle is on the back of a truck ( a closed chicken chilled type one and an open type one) so be prepared to be covered in dust last year i kaked from it. this year have bought a buff so i can at least breathe.

its 3 separate routes with 4 runs on day 1 and 2 on day 2, seeding takes place on Friday evening and some nice vids of the trails to be ridden. cheapest beer and food you can find and an awesome group of "touched" individuals. starts are seperated by time( 3 min per rider i think) and the fastest boys go off first. first shuttle leaves at 7 or 7.30 i cant remember. its friken cold in the morning and gets better when the sun hits( eventually). nights are cold and the free tents are more so so pack warm. other than that its just 16-25 odd min( depending on where you are seeded, personally dont think the leaders have brakes) of awesome fun

hey guys for those that have used the Hans Dampf tires? all my other tires have had a tread rotation arrow or indicator but the hans dont. after inspecting i see the tread is identical in either direction so would assume it doesn't matter which direction the tread rolls in? am i correct and is this specific to the hans or is it a rule of thumb for all Schwlabe tires?

There like a bear, bsst event ever. 3 years running and love every year more than the year before. Chicken braai best meal ever

Have just put a set of Hans Dampf pacestar on my rig, front and back, moved over from Bronsens and have some observations. WTB Bronsen I am no pro rider but believe i have a relatively decent skill set and ride all my equipment very hard, i found the bronsens to be very good at straight up rolling and hard cornering( by this is mean leaning more than 25 to 30 degrees over from 90 degrees, onto the side tread) but i always felt uneasy on the transition from 90 to a hard lean. dont get me wrong i am not saying they were bad in any way but i just always had the feeling they were right on the edge of me seeing my face in the dirt. yes i know it may be a skills issue but i never had this problem or feeling on my MK2 ust's the 2.3 tire was a perfect choice for my style or riding and was surprised at the weight, it was light and performed well under most conditions and everywhere i tend to ride i may have not had the air pressure set right for my weight which caused the issues i had i will admit but honestly i dont want to take 6 months playing with pressure to find the sweet spot. one observation i had is the tread when rolling looked( from the day i put them on) and looking from the top down, to be almost worn to the point of considering new tires. this i put down to the tread blocks being so close together and this always disappeared when i stopped and looked at the actual tread left( mind over matter thing i guess) schwalbe Hans Dampf the Hans Dampf are frikken heavy, more so than any other tire i have ever owned. they are very wide and seem bigger than the 2.35 as stated. i do believe they are being conservative when they state 2.35. i was only able to get the pace star compound of the Hans but must be honest they grip like there is no tomorrow. no matter how i ride, fast, slow, aggressive or tame they are predictable and behave in the exact same way no matter what i do to them. They are possibly the easiest tubeless setup i have ever done seating with a hand pump and a little aggressive masturbation type shaking with no problem. the tread blocks are very big and quiet widely spaced. my skills issue seems to be non existent with the hans. someone said the Hans are wet weather tires but i couldn't find any information to confirm this anywhere so figure stuff it ill ride them in everything like i do all my other kit. also i have only done dry JHB winter riding on them so cant comment on wet weather performance as yet. but i am very very impressed. they are expensive but if you can find them buy them as i have been told by several LBS's that they are no longer being brought into the country( this is according to the agents apparently). i managed to get them at R480 a tire so it was a no brainier for e to buy them, but have seen them from R550 up to R850 each. so there you go thats my 2c worth for anyone that may want an average joe type report on the 2 sets. again i state dont get me wrong the Bronsens are great at the price i just didnt have huge confidence i while using them for my everyday type of ride. i will however be putting them onto my ss project as they look awesome and well lets face it i have them in the garage anyway. .

hmm depends on how aggressive she want to be in corners. also is she weight conscious and scared of extra rolling resistance? for me i would go WTB bronsen front and a wolverein back or perhaps a Weirwolf back but thats very aggressive. other options, Conti race king back with x-king front for a more all mountain setup than xc or x-king back with mountain king front for very all mountain setup. race king front and back for race type setup. Swalbe nobly nic for good rolling and great grip but still heavy for a race rat type. Hans dampf for very heavy stick like fresh crap to velco type of ride. Raching ralph very good but again a little more xc than i like. sorry as you can see i ride AM so probable not much help but can Guarantee any of the setups i have mention will be like riding on rails compared to what she currently has.