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No, my brakes work well, they really grip, hold and stop me really quickly. so far they are on par with the DH brakes i had on my DH Bike. its just i would have liked them closer together... but i'm trying the one finger thing and so far... i have not come off my bike yet... :)

ok, so we wont go bigger that 32. the tandem we were using was a 11-28 - and huge up front, cant remember the both rings but the big ring is a 58. is a two up front 8 at the rear. our is a 9 speed with triple up front. but our big ring is a 55. when we did the 94.7, my fiance (and i) battled up the longer hills... that was with the 2x8 11-28. we now have a 3x9 11-32 so im sure we will be fine!

ive just changed the cassette... it was toast!!! new cables and chains. i was getting chain slip when powering in a hard gear, checked the cassette and some of the teeth were half the size they should be... so put a new 11-32 on but now wondering if a 11-34 is not the way to go...? it has a LX rear derailure...

that's very informative, thanks. i shall make sure that everything is aligned!! at the moment, my brakes squeal very bad!

I bought a Anthem O. it came with XT drive train and these avid brakes. i have sold the XT and i put my old 3x9/11-34 drive train back on. but i had and use grip shifts. so when i tried to put them on that's when i noticed the problem.... i dont hold the bike shop responsible but i will contact them and see if they can help me out... maybe a swap with pay-in etc...

im considering the long break levers.... i dont like Shimano components, more on the shifters and derailure side.... the brakes and cranks and other bits are good. AND to add insult to injury... Sram triggers don't have rapid fire on the down shift... only up...... so i guess longer leavers will be the answer... even just 10mm will help!

ive just tried to remove it, it seems like it wont come out, i turn it the way it should come out and it locks the brakes... .then i too the screw at the back of the knob out and the knob comes off but the pin under it is just as long.. the knob is on a pin that is spring loaded and that turns the adjustment inside. i will have to open the entire brake to remove this pin and knob! but then i wont have adjustment... and it might not work....

Well that's just daft of them!!!! i use grip shift and makes the brake lever extend about 20mm from the edge of the grip shift. this leads to the lever being "too short" and i now have one finger braking where i usually have two... can i take those knobs out??

Thanks! i have decided to keep the Tektro V brakes for now, i have put new cables and housing on with new brake pads. the tektro has those added pulley's so they must be strong enough? anything else will just be cosmetic....? other than very high end stuff. my problem is that i took it to a bike shop and they set the breaks up incorrectly, VERY loud squealing from the front and nothing at the back.... i took the tandem to Tour de Frans and its being sorted. hopefully.....

Thanks, that is some valuable info! i usually only carry those quick chain links.

i do this often on my MTB, but these are BRAND NEW tires! first ride, puncture... 2nd ride... puncture.... but i will try the higher pressure!

we usually use 7.5 bar, we are a 175kg team. would 8 bar be better?

So i got my new brakes, they are Avid Elixir 9's. i swapped the XT shifters out for my Sram grip shifts, but the adjusting knob on the brakes for the lever travel gets in the way when i want to place the brakes up against the shifters. does anyone know if i can remove these knobs? regards.

ive taken my tandem to Tour de Frans, so i will wait to see what he says... im worried it the rims....

im guessing it must be bad luck... but as you can well imagine me thinking that there is a problem as we have ridden for months on the other tandem, them BANG! both outings with our tandem and we get a puncture both times!!! can one go tubeless on a tandem??

Will check the tube this morning and move to 28C....

So on Monday we went Around the kyalami track, on the second lap we had a puncture up mine shaft. i opened the tire and i found the old tire liner inside with the new tires and tubes... i had the tandem service and had them do the wheels while at it. so i took everything out, new tubes with slime and did the same on the front. Today... 2nd lap... puncture at the top on mine shaft but coming up the hill behind mine shaft.... so the reverse direction as Monday.... lucky the slime sealed it and we made it back... anyway.... what do you think could cause this? just bad luck or do you think the tire could be incorrect for the rim? i have Alex Rims DH22 40 spoke with Conti Gator skins 25C. now here is why i am concerned... my father in law has his tandem here with us, and we have used his in the mean time before we bought ours, he has Shimano tandem wheels 46spoke also with 25C not a single issue/puncture in almost 2500km! including 2 Argus's, 94.7's and many road rides... while our tires are the same size, our rims are thinner than his and his 25c look like 28-30c compared to ours! Could the 25C be too thin for the Rims i have and be a possible cause for the punctures? im running 7.5bar. any info would help!

Are you using tires liners? i had exactly the same thing on my tandem yesterday... a cut/split about 2" that was not through except for the middle of the cut, about 10mm. ??

Ok, so back on this... had the Tandem serviced and the tektro V-brakes..... well for want of a better word are SH*T!!!!!! the from squeals SO loud it hurts your ears and the rear does not stop us... you can pull the lever as hard as you like, best case is it slows you down.... they are also binding at the rear.... so i want out!!!! so i can get my hands on a set of XTR V brakes like the Xt M750's.... will it be worth it or should i try get the front XTR V brake with pully wheel? and the rear to disc??? new Hub, spokes rotor disc brake calliper, BB7?? new cable. wheel build? anything i'm leaving out??

Cool! now i just need to find the info on the hub quality.

Does anyone have exp with these? are they any good? weakness? they come with the 2012 Anthem 0. 2011 anthem had DT swiss 350's? also, can i build a 26" wheel using hubs from a 29" wheel? both 32 hole.

Does anyone have exp with these? are they any good? weakness? they come with the 2012 Anthem 0. 2011 anthem had DT swiss 350's? also, can i build a 26" wheel using hubs from a 29" wheel? both 32 hole.

Thanks Eldron. i have decided on the 3x10 set up. I am not in the 2x10 league yet... as soon as my "wang" gets bigger i will get a 2x10 :)

No, but the fact that i brought it up in my OP and you commented on it, one would take it you were referring to who ever said it... lucking i can go over daisy roots so i was just saying...... Hey... phone sex is better than no sex.... or drawing a blank....

Nope, i just needed "real time" info as i had to make a decision there and then. was using a mobile as a browser and did not have time to use the "search" function! but the guys here were quick on the draw and helped me make a decision. after all, is that not what part of the hub is? asking for help and helping one another? Anyway... if this is topic has been "flogged to death" there sure has been a enough people who thought it helpful to comment constructively... im TOTALLY new to 2x10 and 29er and know very little about ratio's/gearing etc... but, thanks anyway- now i know there is Bugger all wrong with 2x10 (if you are a strong rider like yourself) and not a 29er noob like me.... :) and as far as the gear ratios go i guess its pick&Pray.... but ill be buying a Full totally new 3x10 drive train. as some guys said... it gives more of a range...! see you on the trail sometime. ps. as far as your "downhill demon" comment goes....??? oh well..... ill use the search function to find out how i ride downhill.....