madmarc

Saddle bag should not be anywhere near your ass or legs while riding - Something not right here, I would hazard your bag is too big Oh and saddle bags are not cool especially on a road bike - the style police will hunt you down and arrest you. Road Bike - Everything in your jersey pockets - If there not enough place you carrying too much junk. MTB - Top tube bag or Cycling jersey pockets or Camelbak. I have a bottle cage mounted to my seatpost and use a clamshell, you can also keep it in one of your frame bottle cages but then you lose the additional hydration

You need to add 15% VAT so almost 20 dollar

I will give MyWhoosh a try, hopefully i can run TR at the same time like in Zwift

And just when we got excited by the latest upgrades they nock us for an additional $5 / month TR / ZWIFT - TR / ZWIFT - TR / ZWIFT One wil def need to go !

Interesting - Maybe i eat my words But one would still need to subscribe to both i suppose

For me - Training in TR with a colpased screen while i'm riding around in ZWIFT at the same time is the only thing that keeps me riding on an IDT - I think the perfect platform is ZWIFT with TR fully intergrated or visa versa - Sadly we won't see that anytime in the near future The double subscription is hurting the wallet though

Quick thread revival So i was about to pull the trigger on a Lyne dropper and i did a last search for a new oil cartridge for my KS LEV to see if it could be salvaged. Low and behold i see on their USA webpage that RBC in PE are now the new agents - When i was refered to them by Hurrcane Bikes above they couldnt help me Dropped it off and its now fixed, all be it with the incorrect oil cartridge - Mine has the seat orientation on the top of the post which you can do at 20deg intervals - the one they used you can only orientate it by removing the cartridge and turning it between the vertical keys. I think their one is for internal cable, but it works. Interestingly they actually found the cause of it not holding hydraulic pressure even after my 4 rebuilds - They found a crack in the cartridge in one of the vertical keyways - this even after i had pressure tested it at 250PSI - They operated the cartridge once it was removed and you can clearly see oil dripping out of the one keyway. But i'm stoked so if you have a KS LEV needing some work hit up RBC - they also have service spares in their shop which can be ordered online.

Haha we had the same bikes - first thing to come off was the mudgaurds and then high rise handle bars

I would agree - Good deal for an entry level FS bike and nothing wrong with TITAN frame I'm really curious as to what the contraption is clamped to the right side of the handle bar

I would do a Gravel conversion, but then i would want 27.5" Wheels but looking at the small gap on the chain & seat stays on the frame with 26" X 2.2 tires - There be no way 27.5 would fit. So it will sit until i flip it

I'm sitting with a similar bike - TREK 9.8 Full carbon 1 X 10 SRAM XO setup with RS Reba + remote lockout. Was looking at flpping it and if i got between 6 - 7K i would be happy

I think BikeHub needs another name change CPO = Cycling Prosecuting authority 😁

I have a mate and his wife who also started originally on old 26ers, they recently upgraded to 29ers and after lots of research on their budgets of 10 - 12K pulled the trigger on 2 Titan Rogue they got a good deal at CycleLab @ 12K each. As already said With your type of riding = hardtail Frame material = Alu, I would not go for Carbon as a beginner Your height = XL frame Fork - Must be Air fork Make sure Wheels are tubless or at least tubless ready Gearing must be 1 X 12 or 1 X 11 Brakes - Hydraulic not cable Check out used deals in classifieds like this one https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/hardtail-mountain-bikes/716929/2022-titan-rogue-dash-xl-bike-carrier-helmet Lots of good deals in your budget Also factor in all the accessories you will need - Shoes - Cycle clothing - hydration - tools while riding - Helmet (make sure its a good helmet, dont skimp on this) Good luck and welcome to cycling

So i got bored today and dredged up the oldest post on Bikehub oldest date i could find was 23 Feb 2006 Acutally found another from 1970 but says it no longer exists when i open it Anyone bored enough to find one older ?

I dont buy that they are made for TREK - If that be the case you would only be able to get them from a TREK store - You can get them through any bike shop that stocks Enduro bearings

You got to be careful with the 3801 2RS bearing dimensions I found a few suppliers that were much cheaper than 299 - But on closer inspection they were 7.0mm width The only manufacturer i could find that were 8.0mm were Enduro and i think this is where the MAX wording comes in. I also asked a mate who works at bearing Man to try find them - Also came back and said only place is Enduro bearings. I didnt read your article, but i also dont buy the whole quality thing - Bearings are desigend for much higher performance than they experience on a MTB suspension enviroment - Even the cheapest bearings will last as long as the most expensive ones - Bearing failure on MTBing is from moisture and dirt which will kill any bearing irrespective of the quality.

The strugle is real i tell you - I just did my 26er wheels - Front would just not hold air - removed the tire about 4 times cleaned the rim and the tire bead, rim tape was still fine, pumped it to 4 bar, water and soaped the entire rim and bead, no bubbles, came back 30 min later and its flat - WTF!! I lost my Sh%t and dunked the pumped wheel in the pool only to find a hole in the sidewall. Note to self - Next time soap the rim and tire

Male 62 1.85 m Road - 57 MTB - XL

My view on cost of maintenance for cycling, especially with MTBing and more so MTBing with FS bike - You need to learn some basic service skills - there are lots of resources online like University of U Tjoob and even on some OEM websites. Invest in some time and try them out yourself you will realise it isnt rocket science and will save you 1000's of ronds So what should you be able to do yourself Wheels - Fix a puncture; Change a tire; replace rim tape and gorilla snot; do a complete tjoobless conversion; True a bent wheel; Depending on which hubs you have you should be able to to service and replace hub bearings Brakes - Replace brake shoes; re-cable brakes - A bit more advanced, but brake bleeding is not that hard. Drive Train - Remove the cranks; remove and reisntall a BB; Measure wear on a chain; be able to break a chain to correct length; replace a chainring; replace a cassette; RD setting and tweaking; replace RD jocky wheels. Re-cable gears. Suspension - Oil Service -I learnt this online and done it many times - Now i just send it off to RBC and pay them to do it, but i can do it myself if i have the time. Bearing replacement - This is doable yourself, at most you will save on labor, but you will need to have the bearing puller tools for removal and reinstalling. I made my own from threaded rod and some different size washers, which work great. When i change bearings, i dont skimp i replace them all even the ones that still look okay. As far as tools go - there are not that many that you would need to add to your toolbox Bike service stand (this is a must) - Spoke wrench - Allen Key set - Torx set - tire levers - cable cutter - 15mm pedal spanner - Chain whip - chain break tool - chain wear gauge - Cassette tool - BB tool depending on your BB type - Valve core removal tool - shock pump (you should have gotten one with the bike) - big bottle of Stans - some syringes - proper grease, I'm sure some can add to these baisc tools needed Over the years i've gotten more and more adventureous and made a lot of bearing tools - Park wheel building stand with all the bells and whistles (which i never use) Built my own bike service stand - Air compressor (Makes tire maintenance a pleasure) air gun and digital tire inflators. I even have the L/R thread taps and inserts for crank repairs. So over time you learn basic service skills and eventually you will be stripping and rebuilding the entire bike saving you lots of money at the LBS The best part is if something isnt done right you only have to argue with yourself and not some A/hole wannabe bike mechanic

So once again you will only get the 1.0% if you hand over your soul to them - Another add on to their Scam

All my kids bikes were MAKRO specials Before they even rode them for the first itme i would completely strip them down and rebuild them They lasted for years. Its not the quality thats the issue, its the Makro staff assembling them thats the problem - Sportsmans has the same problem, but they have improved over the years

3801 2 RS - 8 off (21X12X8) - Last paid R 299 each (this was the killer same price overseas) 6800 2RS - 8 off (19X10X5)- Last paid R 80 each 17286 2RS MAX - 4 off - Last paid R 80 each I also had a Superfly - bearings were fairly cheap to replace - Different story with the Fuels

Unless you own a TREK Top Fuel - replacing all the suspension bearings will make your eyes water.

I see on their FB page they ran the Sappi Mankele MTB event again - This is great news, hopefully 3 Towers will return

Been threatening to do that - But i fear i'll need a triplset first