madmarc

MyWhoosh - Its free - Its nearly same as ZWIFT

The only solution is to adjust the RD - If you look at the gap between the smallest gear and your frame with the wheel on the bike you will note the gap is much smaller than the gap when mounted in the trainer - So to compensate you need to adjust the RD slightly inboard. Using a psacer to adjust the cassette more outboard will mess up the chainline, so thats why you have a terrible noise on the bottom 3 gears In fact i rarley use the bottom 3 gears on my trainer and spend a lot of time on my small ring in the front - If i need to go lower on the back i change to the big ring on the front - So if i were to use my normal road bike on the trianer i would just stay off the 3 bottom gears on the back

I been wanting one of these sets for ages Which site did you order it off ?

No longer need cad or speed sensors on the later trainers. basically only HR monitor - Not sure if the watches connect i never owned one - use my Garmin 830 and ANT+ dongle - which givs the best connection

I would go the new route - like the kickr Core - I seen lots of sorry tales of used units failing and no warranty - Kickr also dont seem to repair them so they simply offer you a new one = more money. But ! its not just about having a smart trainer - there be some additional stuff you need to know an plan for 1. On the Kickr - the bike you will use on the trainer needs to have the Rear Derailleur adjusted as the cassette sits slightly inboard from the one on your riding wheel - Itsw a schlep if you use the same bike for outrides - I bought a cheap steel frame bike with 9 speed and have it permantly mounted on my IDT - 9 speed is more than enough for IDT. 2. Decide which platform (app) you want to usae for training Zwift is the most popular but will set you back about 23 USD a month - But you can switch off your subscription for the months you not using it, so if you onlky use it in winter then the annual cost is not that much. I've just moved over to MyWhoosh, which is similar to Zwift but not as great on the graphics, but it will give you the same training options - Its also free for now. 3. decide what device you will use to run the app - I run them all on my laptop which is actually gamming laptop so it runs no problem - but make sure the laptop you use has the capacity. Some guys run them on tablets mounted on the handlebars - I have a big ass 48" tv i cast my laptop screen to and have the TV mounted in front of the IDT. 4. Make sure whatever you using to run the app has Blue Tooth and or ANT+ connectivity so the trainer can connect to the app. Most devices have BT but not all have ANT+ (The Kickr has both) BT messes around a bit if you have too many devices that connect automatically - I use ANT+ on my laptop so i needed and ANT+ dongle that plugs into a usb port on the laptrop. Once you get everything setup - it normally coonects very quickly, no messing about. you also need to do the setup properly in the app to get the trainer brake to be as relaistic as possible - And thats a whole new rabbit hole you need to go down organise a fan in front of the bike good luck

I think they close at 18:00 - Wed is night rides they close later at 21:00 i think I would imagine its safe to ride there in the afternoons - never heard of any issues

This is why i will always support TREK Bought a new Superfly 100 in 2012 from Solomons, when they were still a TREK dealer Did all my own maintenance and services myself - lots of upgrades Seriously cracked the seat tube on a ride at modders in 2020. Sent pictures and original proof of purchase to Solomons who claimed, even though they were no longer a TREK dealer 7 days later - Please come fetch your new frame = TREK Top Fuel full carbon c/w rear shock and headset. Took my broke frame in when i collected it - Mmmmm naaa we not interested just bin it. With TREK the frame lifetime warranty = A lifetime warranty 👌

When we did the very wet and cold TB, while researching decent gloves that would keep our hands warm. Came across an article where riders in cold countries were using surgical gloves under their winter gloves. I really couldnt understand how thin rubber could keep your hands warm. Diving deeper down the rabbit hole its the science of creating a vapour block and how that vapour keeps your body warm - A company that manufctures clothing for arctic expeditions uses the same principle. So here is a summary of how i understand it works The rubber gloves ( we used those blue neoprene gloves that you see mechanics using - got them from Builders) create a seal which doesnt allow the sweat or moisture escape The moisture forms a layer between the glove and your skin The moisture will stay at your body tempreture as long as you keep external cold from getting to the outside surface of the rubber glove. This is what the vapour block is. The sweat inside the glove feels a bit strange in the beginning but you soon get used to it and dont think about it after 20 or 30 minutes So over your surgical glove you pull on a winter glove (We used those long finger runners fleece gloves as the 2nd layer) We also pulled on normal winter gloves over the runners glove - But this constricted our fingers a fair amount and ditched them after 20km's The other trick is to ensure the outer gloves dont get wet - We managed to get thin water proof mittens for this and wore them when it was raining. The warmest part of our bodies were our hands - I was actually very impressed how well this worked. I think your mistake was the plastic bags over the socks - Sweat built up in the socks and the plastic bags were getting the cold which cooled down the sweat (vapour barrier) and put your toes back in the fridge. I would try the plastic bags first and then the socks - I'm sure that would work - Also a good idea to tape closed the vents in your shoes. We should have done the same with our feet with the rubber gloves pulled over our toes before we put on our socks - But we had already spent lots of money on neoprene booties which worked fine.

I have fixed 3 Campy FD's like this - I drilled some very small holes (1.0mm) in each part and used some carbon yarn i pulled from a carbon matt from my carbon repair kit and kind of stitched it together - Mixed the resin and dabbed a blob on it and wrapped it in Electrical tape for compression during curing - Once it was cured i filed it down and dabbed a bit of black paint on the repair - Works perfect. Before that i did try the super glue thingy which doesnt work, the superglue don't like sticking to the plastic and broke apart after a few shifts.

TREK for my vote - Lifetime warranty on the frame alone is a no brainer

Oh shame did i come across to harshly, my apologies, I sometimes forget how easy people are offended now days

I'm reading this wondering who in their right mind would even consider paying 250 ronds for a day or half day pass to ride on some farm that makes wine. Words fail me 🤦‍♂️

Didn't Kruger Park also have and event - I seem to remember from a few years back

Maybe on a road bike - We used something similar on TB, they were both moertoe at 80KM

And dont forget to drop your droper post (If you have one) for your TT position on those tar sections - you be amazed at the speed you get to

Yesterday was my 2nd session on MW, here some things i found while messing about. 1. I messed around with the graphic settings and changed Render Scale from Ultra to High which improved the graphics, especially my avatar. I have Post processing set to high and texture quality set to medium - Don't see much of a difference when i change these and i have no clue what these settings actually change. 2. The app crashed while i was messing about - gave a crash report which i have no clue what it was saying - but sent it off and rebooted the app. 3. During my training session where i was controlling through TR and riding a route in MW it froze. But so did TR so i would put that down to the wireless connection to the TV. Once i re-did the connection this time using HDMI cable it worked fine - But then MW crashed and I had to reboot it - No biggie as my session was in TR which carried on working, but i can imagine the irritation if i was doing a MW session only. 4. Had issue connecting the ANT+ or getting ANT+ to stay on in the settings. I switch it on and go back to devices and it would be switched off. I closed TR and went back to MW ANT+ which then seemed to connect. so clearly MW will not auto pick up a free ANT+ channel of which i have 2 on my laptop, both TR and ZWIFT will automatically connect with which channel is free. So the work around is to first fire up MW and connect and them fire up TR and connect.

🤣🤣 Was acutally done for the TB's race and i spent so much time gerry riggin git to fit so that it would'nt interfear with my seat when using the dropper post as well as the rear tire hitting it with the rear suspension BTW - Do i get time off for having barends ? 😇

Thats why for structured workout plans i only use TR - My free rides would all be in MW or ZWIFT

I think you need to re-organize your picnic basket. A pump ? Now thats old school - Co2 bombs X 2 mounted on/behind a bottle cage - if you really worried about punctures, one on the 2nd cage gives you 4 bombs I Have some pouches i got flying B/Class on Lufthansa they about the same size as a jersey pocket - in there goes - additional 2 X Co2 bombs, Co2 adapter - chain break - spare quick link - tyre levers - spare tube (roll it tight) - Plastic gate - valve adapter to use the pump at the garage. Left pocket - Maybe 2nd tube - phone - glasses because my arms are getting to short to read or see Right pocket - energy bar or 2 Those poly tubes are great, I have one for my MTB and they really save a lot of space but they are expensive. when i looked locally at the time they were over 500 ronds, got mine overseas for about 200 ronds and i see Solomons sell them now for about 250 ronds - not sure on the quality though

I cast my laptop screen wireless to a smart TV which is fairly large and this is the quality i get So some of the surrounds are a bit pixualated, but the worst is when you riding on a tar road - thats really bad. I also run 2 ANT+ dongles, one connects TR and the other connects MW to the smart trainer with "Controllable" switched off. The connection really works well and jsut as good as Zwift , but i havnt done a normal ride in MW yet The only thing that sucks is when you put MW in windows mode so i can reduce the size to get TR in the bottom screen - MW resizes as aspect ratio so when you drag the bottom up it rezise the sides as well - Not a big deal though

So with the latest price increase on ZWIFT and the fact that i pay for TR as well, it was time to look at alternatives to ZWIFT - I normally use it to free ride and also run it while in TR to have something to watch instead of the TR blu graph. I fired up Mywhoosh and was pleasently surprised. the graphics are nowhere near ZWIFT but other than that I reeeellly laaaik it and its free! I also think the HUD info is better than ZWIFT - Cannot understadn why a platform like ZWIFT still doenst have Ave spd All MyWhoosh needs is now Ave HR then it would be perfect. This is my laptop spec

Saddle bag should not be anywhere near your ass or legs while riding - Something not right here, I would hazard your bag is too big Oh and saddle bags are not cool especially on a road bike - the style police will hunt you down and arrest you. Road Bike - Everything in your jersey pockets - If there not enough place you carrying too much junk. MTB - Top tube bag or Cycling jersey pockets or Camelbak. I have a bottle cage mounted to my seatpost and use a clamshell, you can also keep it in one of your frame bottle cages but then you lose the additional hydration

You need to add 15% VAT so almost 20 dollar

I will give MyWhoosh a try, hopefully i can run TR at the same time like in Zwift

And just when we got excited by the latest upgrades they nock us for an additional $5 / month TR / ZWIFT - TR / ZWIFT - TR / ZWIFT One wil def need to go !