akneethling

But I agree with tankman. You should only use it when on an IDT. Then super accurate distance is not a requirement

Pretty simple. I use a radius measurement, measure from the center of the axle to the outside of the tyre. Then use this formula below for the most accurate measurement. 2×pi×radius = circumference Pi = 22/7 but most calculators will have pi. Its the T with the extra leg.

I did rescan the sensors, and tested them after. They are working. But I am concerned that the coding could be out, then someone else using similar sensors could interfere with my readings.

Thanks a MIL....... Much appreciated

HI. I managed to do a reset on my rider 40........ Don't ask me how. It was not intentional........ Some of my settings were not erased, and my ODO is back to Zero. That's all good, I'll start from Scratch....... But I cannot select between the Bike1 and Bike 2 options. It is stuck on Bike2. There is also no ID code for the Sensors (Code:0). Has anyone had this happen before? Will the coded sensors still be free of inteference? Is there any way I can Select between 2 Bike profiles? EDIT- Typo

Just hit Oak Valley instead :-)

If this is the road going to Eerste River, there have been a few issues there before. Seems to be a Hot Spot On a side note, would that not fall under Eerste River Police Station?

So rather get the same one.

Somehting like this.

Maybe you need a top clamp Front Derailleur

Thanks

Thanks. Do you know what the cost on the cycleops is? The current model.

Depends on what type of riding you want to do. The dual sus will be the better all round option

Ja. I saw that. Butin the comments other guys mentioned that they use the Sram mount for the rider 40. I thought this might work too, as the sram fits the garmin 500

See attached pic. Will it work? How is the mount different from the garmin...... or is it

lol....... That T-Bar has been bent for years. Probably from hammering or trying to force a stubborn bold by some or other means. I actually can't remember when or how it was bent. Still works though. So no complaints.

That won't always work, as the screws are typically countersunk. You may have to cut deep to get enough grip with the FLAT. Also the cleat may get damaged, and maybe the OP would still like to use the cleat. Just my opinion though.

Revolution Cycles in Cape Town. I know you're from GP but if you're having trouble sourcing them, they may send it up to you. These rims are really amazing. From here on in, for me, it's bye bye ZTR......... They have the i23 in 26", 29" and 650b. All of them come in at about R570 (don't quote me on that). There is also a i19 on offer.

I had the same problem last week. I used a t25 (brake rotor screws). If the t25 also slips, try a t27. You may have to knock it in to grip the screw. I used a T-Bar, long extension and the t27 socket (pic attached). Method Spray some q20 or wd40 around the cleat and screw. Let it loosen some of the dirt and get into the grooves. Knock the t25/t27 socket Into the stripped screw. Stand on the shoe with the cleat facing up towards you. Put the T-Bar andlong extension into the socket. Push down hard on the T-Bar with both hands and turn loose. This worked for me 1st time. The t-bar gives you the leverage, and the ability to put some pressure to prevent the socket from popping out. Good Luck

See below

Really? I beg to differ. There is a difference in shifting from lower end to top end shimano....... and in my experience....... a big one

Cool. I'll get the info.

Heard it from a colleague. A friend of his was riding in the Devils peak/Rhodes memorial area. He was attacked by a guy who took his bike. That's all I know. I'll get some details from my colleague when I see him on Monday

Heard about another Bike Jacking last week.

125kg archEX..... . Trued a few times WTB frequency i23........ BULLETPROOF