nickelass

Handed out many tubes to people,some of whom carry nothing because of weight,no pump.no tools etc.Once only (berg and bush)was my tube returned later that day.Also ended up once helping a rider at giba and I strongly suspect he had not paid to ride! I look carefully at who I help these days ,those with the broken derailer,chain etc,no problem/have the tools. But those needing tubes are taking my spare.I was organised to carry,they can learn from the walk back.

From what I read in overseas mags,it seems the 1x11 was only designed for am/dh riders who are currently running one blade upfront,also the design of the chain links is different on alternate links to be compatiable to the chainring.Certainly a great design,but most likely overpriced and only really suitable for a small market of riders.

ride cleats on my xc bike,and flats on my all mountain/freeride bike(mbuzi)seems right to ride flats on downhill and jumping.I like the feeling of being able to ajust position of your feet prior to jumps and just feel more confident on flats.I think its good to be able to use both, and feel confortable.I enjoy more freeride so 80% of my riding is now on flats.

A simple solution, which is effective,to stop the chain getting jammed,when it gets pulled up is to strap a large cable tie(the larger the better) strategically on the chain stay close to your small clain ring.Leave a 10mm length so if you get chain suck in granny, the chain catches the cable tie and is pulled up,however you have to stop to push the cable tie down again. I recently had chain suck on a very muddy ride,and no matter what I did I could not use granny gear.

I have never used gel in any race, and only have water in my camelbag,have on occasions felt flat on a 45km ride if going very hard,I rely on my hrm to not overdo the heart rate and I know what is my substanable input in order to race to the end,maybe I am not riding hard enough,but at the age of 50 I am more concerned with enjoyment and fitness.

Had xt hubs laced to ztr rims,my new xt hub freewheel lasted 1050kms and broke completely,and I was carefull about maintaining the cup and cones!I dont think the freewheel bodys are strong enough to stand mtb use.The shop did not replace the freewheel as it was not their fault.I have since used hope,and no problems. Although my front hub is still xt,and after 4 years use it is ok.I know how to service cup and cone bearings thou,otherwise they would have packed in .The freewheel is the hardest working component in your wheelset,and most likely to pack in,hope are easy to maintain and good quality.

Good to see some people still believe in tubes,as I do.I hacve ridden both and prefer the advantage of tubes.Can use cheaper tyres, change them if you need,5 mins before a race. no burping.(as I ride hard with jumps) I prefer higher pressures anyway.Make my own sealant tubes and they seal just the same as a tubeless setup,much cheaper,and easy to maintain.

System works with oil in a closed chamber,presuming the nothing is wrong with your lever,at the top.I would think it would be this,they are complicated to work on,recommend you take it to a fox agent.

ya there was a relaxed atmosphere to the event.I found I was picking my line carefully to get traction.Also certain sections it was better to carry your bike over the section,and at least try to keep granny working.Definitly worth it,the support at the table was excellent.Well done to all those involved.

rode the sunday hill2hill and it was definitely worth it.

good point here,I have also learnt the expensive way,after doing last years trans lesotho ride ,one wet afternoon cost me R2000 in repairs. Although I am most likely riding tomorrow hill2hill.A friend has twisted my arm.The more costly your bike the less you want to ride in bad conditions. Reminds me of years ago we used to go to some really rough places in the berg, guys with the expensive cars would not go because of the bad roads. I heard the hill2hill today was supposed to have 1500 riders,only 480 rode,of that only 25% finished.

maybe your tyre was the problem,as they can be out of true,had this before. I spend a fair amount on spares,but nil on service as I do it all myself,do find though it adds up.have three bikes to maintain.Allways been more of a blue coller worker though,and happen to enjoy maintaining my bikes, as much as riding them.

sometime I read somewhere,but seems to make sense,think of your distance of your hands ,( and arms) when doing a pushup,as thats most likey where you have your max power,try to have the length of your bars to match that.

To answer your question,on fitting a head set.I fitted a cane creek tapered headset on my mbuzi.I dont have the special tools required so I used an 8mm thread bar with two nut on each side and some flat bar to press the cup in.The hard part is to get the cup to press in straight. I pressed it in slowly.and used a vernier to check it was going in evenly.I had to alter the thread bar and nuts as it will go out of alinement, so you just proceed with caution.I have a fair mech background I would not recommend it for anyone who is not mech, skilled.

I only ride a xc race in cleats,and then only when on non tech sections,so I ride mostly uncleated. Giba I never ride cleats.I prefer no cleats. I did used to ride cleats,all the time and it is not for me. If you are uncomfortable cleated in, ride without them. you will learn to stay connected with the bike , an excuse most people who ride cleats will tell you is why you need them in the first place which is only because they lack the basic skills of this.

Ravex makes a hi rise stem, called" tempo" on the side of it.Should be freely avaiable.I have three,one on each of my mtbs. I think you are right with the lower back pain,as I also felt my lower stem was the cause.I experimented with a higer front end and it has certainly worked.I got the stems at cycle lab ages ago, would thing you can get it there.

If I deal with a person, and I get good service, I support them, price is not always the factor to me.Some shops have higer rentals,more stock,and longer working hours . Leigh s cycles to me ,have always met my high expectations,recommend Jason, in particular.

on two occasions had the same problem.Fixed it both times by clamping the hub in a vice,( put insulation tape on the jaws to protect the hub) used a metal punch on the torx bolt, first on the edge ,vertical to indent the bolt. Next use the punch, in the indentation at a 45 degree angle and knock it firmly in a anti clockwise direction,you should be able to punch it out this way.

always use a backpack,I throw all I need and extra,like a hanger cableties,two tubes tube repair kit insulation tape good pump, up to 3 litres water (depending on the ride,often I ride on my own,)weight is not important to me.Plus all the usual items,always grab my backpack,and have sometimes I have ridden a 85km race and found I left a shockpump last weeks suspension adjustment ride.I have walked km before not having the right spares.

gt much better quality

I have swopped out my xt hubs and a sunn ringle jumping flea hub,and have managed to use the same spokes again.I have seen somewhere its not advisable but it seemed to work ok with me and I have had no problems, I built the wheels myself,but must admit it is a difficult thing to do and you need patience on your first wheel.I have heard using old spokes can be a problem as they have been tensioned before,also it may be harder to get the wheel straight.Also the spokes may not be the right length.So I suppose it depends on who you get to build your wheels?

get the mtb pedals, you can ride them with or without cleats, no problem.I have tryed both and if you read reviews the feedback is very true,they actually are easy to clip into and are more versatile.

Greg Minnaar Racing in pmb, had my dhx 4 shock which was a wreck, done by them, a year later and it is like it was done yesterday.

Cant go wrong with hopes,easy to maintain and reliable,Alex Harris used them last year on the Freedom Challenge for this reason.

cleats should not be necessary to keep you on your pedals.If your centre of gravity is right and your knees bent with yours saddle a little lower,this should keep you connected to your pedals,your legs must act as shock absorbers as well.I also was told ride clippless all the time and this did not work with me.Eventually I went against what I was told and rode downhill cleated out and learnt where my weight needs to be,jumping is not an issue,either.Confidence for downhill is to ride track you are familar with to practice,hope this helps.