braailegend

I have lockouts on my fork but rarely use it. I think its just a case to get use to it. When I rode BMX for 2 years and got my myself a MTB again, the shock felt exactly the same (bouncy). Its just you are so used to rigid forks, that shocks will come across weird. The DJ3 is a nice but heavy shock, nothing wrong with it for DJ, but trails it might come out lacking a bit. R2k for a fox fork is not bad and you dont have to worry about the travel changing the geometry of the bike to much. I had a 170mm manitou Sherman on my STP and rode awesome! The STP is an awesome bike, but is aimed at DJ/street(also had one), so climbing not its main design feature, but rather have a sweet "Riding" bike than a lame oversized XC bike that can only do gravel roads and hills, haha *jumping with a lockout on is not the best Idea, exerting unnecessary forces through the valves

both lame greedy corporate cycling brands, which i will never support. even if they leave, ill be riding and fishing as ive done there for years. i dont need a smooth hardpacked trail to ride,

And i have to agree with skylark, selling you're bike to deal with a rim issue is a bit silly. Just get tougher wheels, the light weight stuff are made for dirt roadies. If you use your bike properly youll need some sweet rims

You can buy rims that will withstand almost anything! I weigh 103kg, and hit big drops with scetchy landings with little to know suspension. Remeber, rims are reletively light, so the extra few grams will make you ride with alot more confidence... And get WIDE rims, the width also make a big difference, all mine are 30mm+ My favourite are Spank rims

Its all planning your run before starting, haha... Nothing fixed on that bike. Also forces you to commit to a drop or gap EDIT: when things go pearshape, i jump off or try and stop it with feet

Check the drop-outs and rear axle

$3k+ in US for the entry level one with only deore components and rockshox sector, its going to be a bit more here. Also dont write off hardtails, I hit all the trails you mentioned weekly on my hardtails, without any fuss and do most of the jumps. With a hardtail you'll also get nicer components, which you can always carry over to when you buy decide to buy a full-sus frame.

That is a fat student budget haha Everyone is currently saying trance if you want new. I prefer, build up your own bike with sweet components, which usually turns out double as expensive as what you initially planned, haha

Chris Porter's custom Nicolai Ion 16 http://cdn1.coresites.mpora.com/dirt_new/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/EDH_3746.jpg

I take a piece of wood and knock it in all around the edges

Looks similar to this, and put on the fork

Didnt read the size part, haha... But yes, that bottom crown race is what you must get to convert. Had one to run a straight steerer in trek fuel tapered tapered headset.

I checked out the two bike you linked... you wont really feel a difference from you current setup. The shock, wheels and components is what sets the new bike apart.

1.5 to straight... a reducer tapered to straight, only a special fork crown, about R200

This is how to put in a Spanish BB without special tools, (Basically the same, just different Dia.)

I only true a rim when it touches the frame, lol

Why do they put LEDs on tanks? Makes it a target, haha... Infrared probably better

Niks is onmoontlik... hoeveel geld het jy?

On the finish, WTF!

THat bloody ad!! ma se hare

what? didn't even know there was a ratio

I mostly buy from CRC, so if they want my clientele, they must be able to beat them. For smaller stuff I go to my local LBS, where I don't really care about the price, as I get advice and some technical chit-chat.

My 2nd SS for the stable (Keep the onone company)

My new black bike... or as black as I could get it.

Finished: Total wieght, 11.3kg, so not a heavy weight