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A very similar recent thread with plenty of answers to your question: https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/169502-fox-fork-damage/ In summation, your uppers are stuffed and will need to be replaced. Your seals will also need to be replaced and the entire fork serviced and checked for other damage. It can be ridden like this, but it's going to chew seals, leak oil, and likely just feel like crap. But read the linked thread for a lot more info.

Also, this still works: https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/164777-new-sram-purchase-from-crc/ I know because I landed a 1x derailleur last week after getting frustrated with the local retailers who were completely unable to assist.

I enquired 2 weeks ago regarding the 1x SRAM road components available in ZA. Only the Force 1 is available locally at some super premium prices. If you want Rival or Apex you're basically stuck jumping through hoops to import them yourself due to the distributor restrictions in place. VERY consumer unfriendly. The only mtb bits that might be in the groupset is the cassette/chain. This is fine as they have the same spacing. The 11sp mtb cassettes will however fit on a 10sp freehub; shimano/sunrace/etc. cassettes can also be used. SRAM 1x11sp mtb (x-actuation) and road (exact-actuation) derailleurs have different pull ratios, so they're not compatible.

All my tyres have done this to some extent, even the expensive ones. Just put a bunch of sealant in, slosh it around and leave it on its side for a few hours. Flip it over and repeat. This should seal the sidewall sufficiently that it holds air. Most tyres these days are constructed "tubeless ready" meaning they require extra sealant initially to completely seal. The intention is presumably to save on weight, as UST sidewalls are a whole lot thicker. Also, Conti are notorious for being worse than others with this kinda thing.

Park tool make excellent tools, so I wouldn't hesitate buying theirs if it's at a good price. Pretty much every bolt on a bike is somewhere between 5 and 8nm except for cranks, pedals and axles. Also, many people advocate undertorqueing (usually 5nm) controls like brakes and shifters so they spin on the bars in the event of a crash.

If you're buying the parts new, building a bike is quite a bit more expensive in my experience. Buying used parts off the hub, it could go either way, but there's always seriously good deals on the hub for complete bikes. As for building, it's relatively easy and for 99% of the work all you need is youtube, a decent set of hex keys and some proper grease. Also get yourself a torque wrench if you fancy building a bike without weird creaks and squeaks everywhere. For pressing in BBs/Headset cups/etc., just take the frame to your LBS. They're unlikely to charge more than R100 for this. I think the most complicated part about building up a bike is figuring out what BB/crank spindle combination you need given the sheer quantity of "standards" out there.

I've been eyeing this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/rapidracerproducts-bearing-press-extraction-tool/rp-prod57883 and then just buying the relevant drifts: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/rapidracerproducts-bearing-kit/rp-prod57887 Not going to work for headset cups and most BBs though, but you can press and extract most of the smaller bearings with the same tool. So many tools, so much money.... I don't see the point in buying a full set as a home mechanic, especially given that the kits are all just presses, and you'll need to buy a separate puller. Other options: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id176.html

You should be able to if you can access all the bolts/screws. There's 1 on top and 4 on the bottom. There's another screw internally if you have a bar mount and want to separate the top cover from that. Personally I just pulled the cable out and took the entire thing off the bars. Much easier working on it like that.

As said already said, you don't need to take the shifter apart, just take the cover off and apply grease where needed. I did this recently, and it's vastly improved my shifter feel. I found that the grease had migrated away from a lot of the metal contact points so there was no lubrication on parts like the ratchet and the levers.

How are you using this lube? If you're lubing the stanchions, it's going to be more susceptible to trapping dirt and having it migrate past the seals. Creates a nice rubbing paste.

Spaz multi stem? 12 deg stem comes with shims to adjust it from 8-16.

Pull the tyre off and post pics of the tyre and rim. If I'm seeing that correctly, you've got a snakebite puncture at the bead. If the bead has separated from the sidewall, you need to toss that tyre. If it comes off mid-turn you're going to end up in a nasty crash. The rim is likely still good.

They use DHL in EU, then gets handed over to EMS when it hits local. Still worth importing though, much cheaper than local despite the extra wait.

That's a warranty claim if you're the first owner and have the slip. What's happening is the glue is breaking and the rails are no longer secure; they'll develop all kinds of play and squeaking if you leave it.

Just something to consider, a proper baton is heavy. Do not even consider a cheapy, they'll implode after 1 hit. I just weighed my ASP, came in at 495g, so it's definitely not for the weight weenies. It also won't fit inside a handlebar, and given its weight you'll need to secure it pretty well if you plan to attach it to the frame. This kinda defeats the purpose of any kind of SD weapon, i.e. being able to retrieve and deploy it under stress in a very short period of time; though I suppose you could rig up some kind of quick draw holster, assuming you don't get separated from your bike. For those of you carrying knives (I often do myself), just be mindful of how the weapon deploys and if it's at risk of opening while riding. The last thing you'd want is 10cm of steel slicing open an artery as a result of a fall.

+1 on contamination. If you only took your rear wheel in, either they cleaned the hell out of the rotor and removed all the pad material, meaning you'll have to rebed your brakes or (more likely) grease or oil ended up on the rotor which has now transferred to the pad. If this is the case, your best bet is to clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol, and sand the top layer of the pads off, then bed them again. If the pads are too contaminated they'll have to be replaced.

My BB just consists of 2 bearings pressed directly into the frame ... PF30 according to manufacturers spec. Fortunately when it started creaking it was just dirt trapped between the bearing and the crank seal, but damn I hate this design. I'm likely going to damage them if I ever try remove them to service.

Seems like a pretty cool short term accident cover product. Had a similar experience last year that I'm still paying for: significant damage to teeth and jaw. Only a tiny portion was hospital cover with the rest being specialist which medical aid/gap doesn't cover.... https://www.sanlam.co.za/gocover/Pages/default.aspx

Been running road tubeless for a while: Schwalbe Pro Ones. It's been great... but, I had a puncture that the Stans sealed, but would constantly leak and then seal again (very messy, road pressures spray sealant everywhere). The Stan's was fresh and the cut maybe 3mm long, so I don't know what the deal was. Eventually got sick of this and pulled the tyre off to patch it. No problems since.

1. This should be in the classifieds. 2. Your photos are blurry. 3. Add a photo with a bike attached to this.

I have a Following and cleaning that rear linkage is a nightmare! I had an unfortunate experience with Evil's after-sales service which ended up costing me way more than it should have. Trailtech are great though. My paintwork is still fine, except where the paint is missing from the seat-tube. It looks like tyre rub, but if the tyre has contacted the frame during full compression that sounds to me like a design flaw. No idea how else it would have happened though. I absolutely love the bike and all the Evil's, but they are definitely not the greatest value for money bikes around. Something like a Giant Reign/Trance or Spaz Enduro/Stumpy has it beat here. There's been some amazing deals in the classifieds over the last few months on these higher end trail/enduro bikes.

What's your actual budget? Are you looking to buy new? Your list already looks good, but I'd add Transition and Santa Cruz to it as it looks like you're after something a bit more special.

It seems like there's a few too many people getting upset over this video. If you're having a negative emotional reaction to someone pointing out lawlessness then you probably need to evaluate why this is. Casting aspersions/veiled insults against video creator speaks more to your character than it does his.

Launch special is R4500 if that counts. Bicycle stuff isn't cheap in ZA.

https://trail-tech-cycles.myshopify.com/collections/evil-bikes R48k for The Calling frameset. I've been following their builds for a few months now and it seems like most people kit these out with top shelf components to go with the frame. So, you can probably expect to pay R80-120k for a new build. Nothing stopping you sourcing cheap components off the hub though. These bikes aint cheap...