droo

Chain length, B gap adjustment or clutch tension, or a combination of the 3. Either that or your cable is kinked.

Hopefully you don't live up to your username.

Ja but Epic you get to bring a friend.

Gravel bikes suck at everything, but they can do anything. It's what makes them fun. If you ride bikes for fun you probably have a screw loose and an odd relationship with pain (an observation, not a judgement, just to be clear.) So it's worth a try if you have the opportunity,

I feel you don't know who you're talking to here. Not everyone on Bikehub is an armchair expert, some have real world experience too. You're working off a sample size of one, I guarantee you that John has a few more reference points.

We can also do it, about R 2 500 all in. Whether it's worth it or not depends on how nice the fork is.

What kind of sensor are you after? Speed will work off the phone's GPS, if you want HR or cadence you'll jut need to make sure whatever sensor you get transmits Bluetooth. The default is ANT which your phone won't pick up.

On the flipside, the number of R1m + cars I see with 200k worth of bikes flapping about on one of those clip on 2 stick jobs never ceases to amaze me. I reckon if you're using it often enough, especially shuttling, it'll be more than worth the investment.

The Google says Fruugo will just eat your money. If you have a lanyard then the 3d printed one should be fine, otherwise Dogears are the benchmark for this repair.

A pap RD spring will make for sluggish downshifts, not skipping. Upshifts will be fine. Similar symptoms to a worn cable. Replacing the wrong thing is a waste of money, even if you got it at a good price.

Shifter and RD should be the same, although with 12sp the pull ratios are close enough that it works ok. (Ok, not perfectly.) The RD most likely isn't your problem though.

It'll work fine, and the GX will last longer than a Shimano cassette too.

Triptych or Courier Guy. Have used both many times.

Boxman or LBS.

If you change your chain just before it hits 0.5% the rest of your drivetrain should last forever. In reality though, chainrings are made of alu so they'll wear out eventually just from grit on the chain, especially MTB - they have fewer teeth so the load per tooth is higher, and they get more dirt. I've got a 5000km old cassette on my MTB that's still going strong 3 chains later, and my gravel bike has 5000km on each of the chains with no sign of wear yet. It all depends on how well you look after your chains and how good you are about measuring them. If you pay attention to these things they'll last forever, if you don't you can write off a complete drivetrain in 2000km.