droo

Does he still ride bikes recreationally?

First prize, if you have to hit something, is using the driver as a cushion. But this is more down to blind luck than planning. I prefer to just stay out of the opening radius of the door where I can - but even this isn't always possible, nor does it account for coupe doors.

Pretty sure you'd be able to order a set, there is a local agent. Shout if you'd like me to find for you.

"A DIY solution" is a very broad spectrum, I haven't seen what you're capable of... no offence meant, but I've seen some questionable work in my time. But yes, getting it in straight is the most important bit. And the easiest thing to break in the process is the sleeve between the two cups, which will go out of alignment if a mouse farts in the next room. This is one of those jobs that I'd say either get the tool or get the LBS to do it for you. Unless you have a carpenter's bench vise, which is about the only non-standard tool I can think of with big enough parallel jaws to get the job done.

I'd guess your problem is that the frame isn't supported close enough to the BB for you to be able to get enough shock through the interface to knock it out. Ideally a block of wood with a hole in it the size of the OD of the BB would work to support the frame so you can get a proper whack in, but that's a very specific size of bit you'd need to make it. Making 2 V blocks might be easier to do but more difficult to manage on your own. That extractor should do the job if you're up for buying tools, but for a quick and dirty fix you can knock the bearing out of the shell which should remove enough of the preload to get the shell out. afterwards. To get the bearing out, lay the shell flat on a block of wood for support - no need for anything special, you'll be able to move it enough just on a flat surface to get it loose, then back in the stand for the last bit.

The fork is way easier to swap out than the shock, especially on the Orbea shock which is proprietary. PM me the 4 digit code on the back of the fork leg and a photo of the top view of the current lockout spool if you need the part number.

There have been others since then, and some even older than yours...

Just that lefty would make me walk away. The last restoration I did on one of those was about R 3k, and only because I was lucky enough to find spares, and if you wanted to replace it with any other fork you're in for a new front hub.

The fibre stuff comes off with the tyre, cos it's poo. The adhesive sticks to the bead of the tyre and the rim bed better than it sticks to the tape itself. Cleanup takes about half an hour per rim. @ChrisF paraffin or artist's turps is the quickest way we've found to get rid of the glue.

Depends very much on what kind of riding you'll be doing. If it's anything reasonably spicy consider a replacement steerer tube.

Just be aware of the downtime if you break or wear out anything on a frame with no local support. And get a spare RD hanger with the bike.

Try @Richiespares, he's always got heaps of Shimano smalls.

I think for us ballies race is a very strong word. There will likely be a bunch of us going up next year. It's a decent excuse to get out of town, and there's a decent brewery out there too.

Also you need a strong stomach for when you find a month old banana in the bento box...

Your last line is the important bit, As other have said it will break, probably before you'd like it to, but in the meantime you have something to ride, and as a side effect you may well learn quite a lot about bike maintenance in the process. While you're riding, learn as much as you can about what's out there - it's a pretty technical pastime as you've probably gathered, but ride with a few of the right people and you'll get some good advice along the way. One of the most important things will be to work out what size frame you need, so when you're ready to upgrade ride as many bikes as you can get your hands on. We were all noobs once, even if there are some who have forgotten it...