droo

There was once a frame with a rear fork, but that's the only time this distinction was acceptable. Behold the Manitou FS, 1992.

As said, you're going to need to be waaaaay more specific. Make / model / year of frame Make / model / year of fork Once you have these, Google will help. Or someone on here. Photos would be a bonus.

On a serious note though, it's just a bit painful to have to manually filter out stuff you're not looking for. Like looking for a single bedroom flat and every 2nd ad is for a bachelor flat. Not the same thing. Although in that case it's usually an agent being deliberately obtuse, and as Matt said earlier the wheel / rim thing is more likely a seller that just doesn't know any better. Cos not everyone wants to be a massive bike nerd. If anyone needs any further triggering: Peddle Helmut Front shock Soft tail Breaks Spikes Happy searching...

https://soundcloud.com/deepdish is the best kind of Deep Dish. The other kind is a pie, not a pizza. Or just a piece of crockery. Definitely not a rim.

As the non-facing batsman said: well left.

None of these will be an upgrade from 105. Quite the opposite, actually. OP - as mentioned you can go to 10sp without changing your hub, but you'll incur quite a bit of extra cost for one extra gear. For my money, I'd ride it till it falls off or buy a new bike.

If the tap idea doesn't work, try a wanted ad in the classifieds. There are probably a good few LHS cranks out there from guys who have fitted Stages PMs, and 175 was about the most common crank length for GXP. Checked with the agents, no stock anymore and SRAM no longer make GXP spares.

You used to be able to buy replacement left cranks, let me know what length and I'll see if the agents have any in their archives.

Is the crank still attached to the bike?

Depends what it's going to be used for. It would make a decent gravel tourer, but a pretty subpar MTB.

Here's the geo chart - it specifies a fork with a 468 axle to crown measurement, which works out to about 80mm of travel on a 29er fork. 100mm will be fine, but definitely not 140mm. It's got a 44mm head tube so you can fit a tapered steerer fork with a ZS44 / EC44 headset. 2014 predates Boost, and you'll only have the option to run 12 x 142 on frames with modular dropouts. And a 27.2 seat tube means your dropper options are limited if you want to run one. Full catalogue and specs for MY14 here.

OP, take this man up on his offer rather than potentially buggering up a frame to make a plan. Aside from that, axles aren't cheap.

I prefer anti-seize to grease since it's more difficult to wash out. Grease can also oxidise, which makes it thick and not very good at lubricating. Regular removal, cleaning and regreasing of the skewer will also help, and makes the lubricant used less critical sonce it's changed more often. In Stoffel's case, the anodising on the axle was damaged and the alu had corroded, seizing the skewer into the axle. If the anodising is still good, then a light coating of grease will usually do the job.

Reverb is a great post let down by expensive and limited spares. The only parts you can get for it (as with many other RS bits, although they are getting a bit better) are seal kits. So if anything else gets damaged, it's going in the bin.

I've done plenty of the KS carts, and the main thing is to make sure there's no air in the oil side of the system. Have a look at the Rockshox Reverb manual for pointers. I've never used an oil bath and I've never had issues with sag. The other pointer, and this goes for all posts, is never to pull up on the post while it's compressed.

The rebuild kit on the Lyne has keys in it which will reduce the play. The V2 have a new key system so are much better in this regard. Although if lateral play annoys you, Bikeyoke Revive or Fox Transfer are your best options. For you, the Revive would win cos I know you like doing your own servicing and you'll have all the tools already.

Exactly this. Wooden support for the dropout, alu drift to not damage the axle, and force.

To get the sag out you'll need to rebuild the cartridge, which is a reasonably easy job about 60% of the time. http://www.peterverdone.com/ks-lev-rebuild-and-travel-adjustment/ The only trick is that in some of the later versions they knocked a pip into the outer post where the lower seal head threads in to stop it from unscrewing itself (and to stop palookas like us from getting in there to do what's essentially a really simple service). If you have one of these, you'll just need to carefully drill that pip out with a 2.5mm bit before unscrewing the seal head. Godspeed.

You can get adapters from 142 to 148 as long as the hub isn't centrelock, but not 148 to 142. The issue is that the spacing between the cassette and the brake rotor is where the extra 6mm is, and you won't be able to make that up by adjusting RD and caliper spacing. Rebuild with new hub or find another wheel.

Quite a few variants out there, OE and generic. PM me if you'd like to order.

Traditions are important. I predict a calm day and about 25 degrees, cos I'm not riding this year.

Then definitely use a taxi or charter service rather than Uber, you can book in advance and talk to an actual person. The number Milky posted above looks like a pretty decent option, otherwise if you're staying at a hotel they should be able to organise something for you.

Do you need the bikes there at registration as well? What time do you need to be at the start? Where in CT exactly are you staying, and is it a B&B or a hotel?

Sounds like the through-axle is seized into your hub axle. You should be able to see the other end of the through-axle through the frame on the drive side, use a wooden, plastic or alu dowel and tap it out, making sure that the last thread disengages before you give it too much of a clout. If it's properly seized in it'll take more force than you think, so if it starts making you nervous, stop and take it to a pro.

Tap it with a coin or a car key or similar. If the area around the scratch makes a dull noise, take it to a carbon repair guy. But I'd guess from your pic that it's purely cosmetic.