droo

It'll work on a front hub, but not a rear.

May the odds be ever in your favour...

Yeah, and I can see you riding from Muizies to Paarl, smashing the HT category, then riding home. Although with dad duty that'll be a bit more challenging. Also you may need to put gears on.

Most of those are off grossly overstated RRP, and designed to catch people who just don't do their homework. But apparently it works.

Depends if you ride there or drive there I guess...

@CARANXCycleMobile is your guy. Get it done before you need to start replacing bits of frame, otherwise you're in for a proper treasure hunt.

Head through to Knysna one day and do the Seven Passes road to Saasveld and back.

Yup, I also know 2 concept stores that are actually a proper bike shops underneath all the shiny stuff. Not all of them can be tarred with the same brush.

Have sent out a few enquiries this morning, hopefully something comes of one of them.

I hope you used anti seize paste on those, otherwise you'll need new shoes when your cleats wear out...

A final point from me is always to make sure you've got time to get a ride or two in after a service before embarking on any kind of mission, which is generally an event but in your case it boils down to the same thing. That way, if something does go wrong (nobody's perfect, it'll happen) you've got time to get it sorted by the guy that got it wrong rather than ranting at someone by remote control when there's very little they can do to solve your problem. (In your case it sounds like an apology or admission of guilt may have helped, but in real terms your bike still doesn't work all that well.)

Unless you're doing a custom build or have bought a boutique brand it's unlikely that there's anything other than factory grease in the pivots anyway, which tends to be minimal - the bikes spend a fair bit of time in transit, and the heat in the containers can melt out the grease which stains the boxes... Most shops won't strip and rebuild pivots on a new frame, and most of these things are semi knocked down so it's basically straighten the bars, pop the wheels on, both check and roll out. People think I'm nuts when I tell them their almost new bike needs a pivot service because of a "BB creak". That said, I've also seen new bikes need all kinds of work after being handed to stage race bike washes, or just being pressure washed to death by the owner cos they've seen it done on the Gram.

I know South Industries have a relationship with the brand, if they can't supply they'll at least point you in the right direction.

Thule Upride Yakima Highroad Both will cost you a kidney, but will do what you want.

Yes. Well, it would for me anyway. I'm still on 9sp and recently went from a 26 to a 29, and it's definitely made a difference. Compact crankset is on its way. An 11sp RD should be able to deal with a 32T - check the specs online before you pull the trigger though.

I can retrofit Spez yoke mount damper bodies onto Fox shocks, you'll need a 216 x 63mm. Otherwise the Bikeyoke is a good option which will allow you to fit a standard 200 x 57mm.

I don't think mugging is legal either, yet here we are...

I can have you a Lyne by tomorrow if you want one. By far the best option you'll find for an externally routed post. I've also got a ton of used Reverbs, but the price will be about the same and the hose will annoy you in about 3 minutes.

If someone moers someone for using a rude word I'm afraid their worldview needs some adjusting. Particularly if it was thrown in because of rude behaviour. People hide behind some flimsy defenses when they're clearly in the wrong.

Usually the residents and regulars in any area aren't the ones you need to worry about, although you'd have to have been around a while to know who the regulars are. But I'd rather take my chances with N1 traffic than ride along that sad excuse for a bike lane between Milnerton and Woodstock. Whoever thought that was a good idea should be made to ride it every day.

AFAIK Giant make Gopro mounts for those stems, chat to your local Giant shop. A phone mount may be more of a challenge, but check out SP Connect - some very neat solutions.

On a 120/110mm travel bike, the biggest differences you'll notice will be the weight, stiffness and sensitivity of the fork. On longer travel bikes the damping becomes increasingly important, but you're not in that category. That Recon Silver is a heavy thing, so whatever you put on there will save you a few hundred grams for a start. Then there's the improved small bump compliance from more slippery anodised aluminum stanchions and better bushings, as well as better control over compression and rebound damping (depending on what you go for). Most new forks will also allow for adjustment of the progression of the stroke with volume spacers, which can also help with this if used correctly. Those Cambers also handle being over-forked quite well, but anything over 130mm is going to negatively affect climbing. The shock on there is most likely a Monarch RT, which basically just has on/off adjustment. Something like a DPS or RT3, which has actual (although limited) compression adjustment, will be much better for anything that's not a smooth climb, allowing a bit of movement to help traction and comfort without the rear end bobbing too much while pedaling - something the FSR linkage is known for. All this said, it'll all come down to budget. Suspension is one of the most expensive bits of a MTB, so it's easy to overcapitalise. Though if you keep the old fork you can always take the new one over to your next bike if you do eventually upgrade. Shock - not likely, especially with that yoke mount.

Ride them both, you'll be surprised.

Depends on the car. My 1.6 Golf drank petrol with a bike rack on, my 2.5 Forester couldn't give a rodent's rectum. Smaller highly stressed engines are more sensitive to extra load, bigger under-stressed ones generally don't care. @Chris - if it sticks out beyond the edges it'll make a bigger difference. You'll probably spend that difference on whatever weird rack you're designing though. In time and welding rods. Not that that will stop you...

At 60 and not serious, go for the one with the most travel. And that's not the RS of either year, it's just the standard Cypher which has 120mm front and rear. More squish = better, unless you're competing or a masochist. You can get the RS and convert it - as Jono says, it's just a matter of removing a spacer each from the shock and fork - but that's going to cost you a visit to a suspension techie, so rather just get the proper thing from the start.