droo

I retract my first post. Fox kit and standing on a tranny. That oke deserves everything he got and a bonus PK or 3.

At a discount, if all he got was a busted ankle. That said, we don't know how well marked the trail was. You don't know what you don't know, and there are MTBers who couldn't point out a jump line if there was prize money on the table.

More like how... I doubt Makro will offer much in the way of support.

AP Cyclery are the agents, give them a shout.

At least you'll be able to keep up then... On a serious note though, check that the freehub seal is seated properly and that there's no damage to either the bearing journals on the axle or any of the spacers between the bearings.

Depends where you're based. We've got in stock, but so do the RS agents so any bike shop should be able to order for you.

This I get, people use all kinds of "some guy on YouTube said this was fine" boer-maak-'n-plan rubbish, baby oil, olive oil, DOT fluid, water, etc... you've got to, as a manufacturer, draw the line somewhere, and your own proprietary stuff is generally it. There are people who actually understand the properties needed to do the job properly, but they're definitely in the minority, so while there are many other substitutes that will do the job properly, I can see where they're coming from.

But... what about when there isn't any in the country?

Welcome to the world of stupid cable routing. You can use whatever stem you want, but it'll look terrible and take on more water (and everything that it brings with it) than the Titanic.

220l drums are perfect, not sure what the issue is...

GPChat, is that you?

Burgtec also do some really decent pedals. Their composite one is surprisingly good and very well priced, and replacement bits are readily available.

I think he'll need a QR fork - don't think those Sparks have convertible front hubs. Hopefully @Kimikazecan confirm.

A look at the stanchions should answer that question, hence my offer to sort the shock out... Non-convertible QR front hub. You'll need a big hammer to get that 15mm axle through.

@RobertWhitehead I'll chuck in a service. @Kimikaze, bring me the shock as well please. May as well get it done at the same time.

Assuming it's the same place that sold the Hope / MK3 wheelsets built with straight gauge spokes that all pulled through the rims. You 100% get what you pay for.

Nope. Chains wear cogs, not the other way around.

I'll add the Titan Racing bag in here as well, somehow forgot about it yesterday. Looks like solid quality, although I don't have first hand feedback on long term durability. Half the price of the EVOC one and AFAIK locally made.

I'm kinda halfway between the two dissenting views on here. If you accept the cash, you accept the hassle. That said, managing expectations is always crucial so be clear about what you're offering. I don't do Postnet anymore cos driving (or riding) there, standing in a queue, filling in forms, then driving back is an hour of my life I could put to much better use (and I'm about 10 minutes away from one). If I was more mobile in my day to day then maybe, but as it stands it's not worth the hack. For a R 50 premium I send a mail and an hour later there's a man at my door to collect. If that's too rich for you, feel free to make your own arrangements.

^ what he said. These things pop quite often, and almost always in the same place. I've sent you a mail, will need the serial # to know exactly which bit you need.

Depends on the bike. Anything under 15kg it's worth getting a proper bag - I'd go with EVOC cos I like their stuff, but I'm not an expert - other people may have better suggestions. As soon as you hit trail bike territory a box is the only thing that'll keep the whole thing under the 23kg limit, especially if you want to chuck some kit or tools in there as well. One way - cardboard FTW. Even if you pay your LBS to pack it for you you're saving 9k. That's a lot of beer. Or most of an AXS upgrade.

If you want a fix that lasts, you'll need to press out, clean and refit with the retaining compound. Applying from the outside may work in some cases, but definitely not all and not permanently.

Everyone talking about dropper remotes - read the post. It's a shock remote. OP - if it's an issue with the remote not latching, those remotes do occasionally have those issues. To replace with something else, you'll need to match the cable pull from the new to the old one. Take the remote off, lock it, mark the cable, then release it and see how far the cable has moved. Post that number and I'll see what else will fit.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/search/?term=xtr lever&geoc=ZA You won't find them locally, the agents don't bring parts in - only complete lever assemblies.

Shabbos Wookie for president!