Butterbean

Yeah housing and cable were replaced, and still have the issue.

So I have a dual sus, running a bit of a Frankenstein 1x12. GX shifter and derailer, SLX 1x crankset, and sunrace 11-50 cassette. Now, I had, what I thought, was great shifting when this set was on another bike. It's moved across to the Silverback and I'm having a funny issue... Setting up according to Srams instructions, it is sensitive to tension, and I do set the B-Gap using the tool. My bigger cog shifting is fine. Well, it's not perfect, but it's good enough and only rarely misses. The small cogs are the major PITA. To get shifting right throughout the cassette, the tension seems so high it struggles to shift back into the 11t, it just struggles to drop down, I normally need to back off the power and then it drops. Stays there just fine once it has shifted down. But then, after some rides without adjustment, it starts to shift too far over from the 3rd chainring, skipping the second one, and over the smallest. and I've had a couple of rear triangle gouges when it goes too far. Reset the limit, all good. And then it happens again. The lower three cogs are the biggest issue and a total stuff up in shifting performance. Chain length is right, as according to Sram. Chainline looks fine. Any suggestions? Is the B-Gap setting supposed to be done with Sag on the rear shock? Does this sound like bent hanger? Eyeballing it, it looks okay. Would the B Gap even affect the smaller cogs? I'll probably take it to a shop soon, but I had it set by another when the brake hose and gear outers were correctly lengthened. Same issue and actually the first time I graunched the frame with the chain...

Yeah I have romins on both my road bikes... They're great, but do try get the second Evo version of them, the slimmed the nose back down. The original nose width was a bit of a ballache...

Spez has a whole range and theyre fairly priced depending on the spec... Why not just get a spez and be sure about the fit and measurement?

Sheesh... I see how that could happen with a loose bolt. That sucks.

But how would the splines wear? They don't really have an opportunity to, in normal use.

Yeah, 115kgs here and on a silverback Stratos. Nice to have the extra travel, and frame seems ultra solid. Just a wheel upgrade to Lyne Amp wheels and it's golden.

I have also heard that, once you've done the penetrating fluid of your choice, you can place the Seatpost in a vice, and use the Frame to apply leverage. At your own very dodgy risk, of course.

It's like you guys don't know that courier services exist. But seriously. No.

Man, we ran into this a while back with a mates bike, and got incredibly lucky... Used the saddle mounted on the rails to give the Seatpost a couple of very solid whacks sideways, and luckily after a few it budged. Once it budged, we knew at least it was mostly unstuck. Removed saddle, sprayed penetrating oil, and used some plumbing pliers to grab thentop and keep twisting. Eventually moved enough to twist easily enough to have someone start pulling up, and out she came after a bit... Reason enough to just grease your post to start with, and redo when you do your major drivetrain cleans.

Yeah, paid just under 2k on takealot. Was bought for the Mrs jewelry but the bike makes best use of it anyway...

Small hobbyist ultrasonic cleaner for the chain. Works an absolute treat and no scrubbing. Take off quick link, drop chain into degreaser solution in the UC. Wipe down chainring and pulleys with old tshirt and floss between cassette cogs using the same shirt. Dry chain off after a couple runs in the UC, then onto bike to dry. Apply chain lube, wipe excess, and quick wipe again on the chainring and jockeys(I find this is where the extra chain lube will accumulate, then turn grimy when you ride). Done.

Bont! Bont shoes are wide as, and heat mould able to get extra room.

For the fiance, PLENTY here on the hub classifieds. If you're not up for hunting through used bikes, pretty much every bike shop should have an entry level bike in that price range that will be good enough to get going on.

This is good advice. The stock parts list on the Al5 is not left all that much wanting, especially for beginners. Ride the bike, and then upgrade when parts wear out or you think you're hitting the limit. Mine was upgraded because I had the parts already. I wouldn't have done too much had I not had them.

Where you based boss?

My Al5 is pretty upgraded... Reba front fork, sram GX eagle drivetrain (using a sunrace 11-50 cassette), Lyne amp 30 wheelset, new bars, Seatpost, and saddle. It's still on the heavy side but rides superbly! Rear shock is next on the list, but not a major pain at the moment.

This is sad. That road is treacherous and I would not pedal a bike on it alongside traffic...

Wait... Forks and shocks have their own intervals. Bearings, usually done as necessary when things stop rolling smoothly. Gears and brakes also adjusted and bled when necessary, not necessarily on an interval. Normally most okes will allow a shop to check all bearings and related bits once a year, but most shops will hunt these down at any opportunity anyway... Follow the fork and shock intervals closely, so as to avoid larger costs down the line, and the rest, learn what to look for and when it needs correction, then correct it.

To be fair tho, this sounds like you've just lost cable tension... Install a new shifter with less than ideal tension and it will struggle up the cassette. It will always shift right back down. Normally, the slack is taken out with the barrel adjuster, but it does sound like, in your case, the lever is taking the initial slack out and then moving up the block. A flush is a good idea, but this may just need tension check, possible cable inner and outer replacement. Of course this is all from a description online so tough to be certain. But if it's not sticking, it's probably the tension, or cable related rather than the shifter mech.

*formerly coolest guy in the peloton. He lost that title when he was pictured wearing a camelback..

Two things to note for average Joe... One, the look pedals require special tools to service. Two, the part of the look cleat that touches the ground when you walk, is also responsible for maintaining correct fit into the pedal and therefore retention. The Shimano cleat does not. Ah, but you say, you're a roadie! You dont walk! But most events, to my annoyance, make you get off your bike and walk into the start pens. Argust can be a long ass walk too... Something to keep in mind if you're starting a bike collections and deciding on a pedal family to join.

OP, just get these. Make a plan and you're sorted. No need to stress any more than this.

Having been a staunch supported of CycleFit, I really enjoyed the advanced stuff Spez had on even their basic fitment. No, there wasn't any lasers, and no, no fancy camera to watch yourself. But I did enjoy the fact that the fit was done to ME, not a manual, and that actually watching me, meant they could easily spot things that other bike fitments never caught. Well worth it.

More expensive generally just means lighter, although in the case of LOOK pedals, its also extra tension. Take a look at cleat options too... I find Shimano cleats (same throughout the range) are MUCH more stable to walk in and no real negatives. They're cheap and easy to use too. Look pedals can be slippery and the grip options aren't always available. Most generic pedals will use Shimano cleats too, but make sure of this. Lastly, serviceability. Shimano also trumps here, IMO, and generally they just know how to make a pedal last. If you want to save weight, spend the extra money. I believe the 105 is the sweet spot of weight & cost, but if you're not too bothered then just get the cheapest ones and go nuts.