Butterbean

You thought about leg length discrepancy? I had an irritating niggle on one side. Saddle sores, sore riding... Tried different saddles, different shorts, different setups. Problem was, my left leg is slight shorter than my right, but the right side was the one that was measured when doing bike fitments. Eventually sorted when I got a spez fitment done, purely because they were close by, and the fitter noticed a discrepancy. A little 2mn shim in the shoe and I'm 100% now... Might be worth checking...

Yeah if it's between the rim and tyre it sounds like it hasn't seated the bead properly. It might appear inflated but you gotta hear that nice crack of the bead seating, on both sides...

Always appreciate the advice man, thank you!

Thanks fellas, put them on the ads now and will go for something stronger.

Okay, I know the older crests are a no no and we have loads of stories of folding over, easily dented, no riders under 70kgs or they'll fall apart... BUT. the newer Crest S1 rims now have eyelets, a wider rim, etc, which make it look a good option. Additionally, at 1800g ish a set they're not feathers. A couple of bikes that have them as OEM have weight limits of around 120kgs... So, whats the consensus on these? Bear in mind, I am heavy. 115ish kgs. Dual sus bike doing dirt roadie stuff with maybe a little bit of gentle trail riding, definitely don't get too rowdy... 32 spoke rims from and rear... Let's hear it!

Are you certain the hanger is straight?

Yeah I have just gone through this little merry go round after breaking a bolt... Silverback went above and beyond to make up for it, picked up hike from my place and sorted it right. Its been brilliant, despite the little oversight.

Contact Silverback. There is a known issue with the spacing of the shock and pivot gaps. If you have some side to side play, there is a spacer that needs to be installed. Some frames need it on both ends of the shock, some on either end, depends. Also, some blue loctite on the pivot bolt threads is always a good idea, I think the older Silverback Dual sus bikes suffered from loosening pivot bolts too and loctite sorted it out. The torque spec of the pivots is 4nm, not the 10 as etched on the pivot bolts. Silverback are extremely helpful and quick to help to boot. Get in touch with them or the Lbs that sold you the bike.

Hahaha I know right? I guess the gist should have been - just cause it's been put on a part, doesn't mean mistakes can't be made... Apparently this fault was communicated to dealers but it leaves Joe DIY out to dry... I don't know Scott bikes at all, but figure if the bolt breaks at the printed torque, the manufacturer might be at fault before he shells out for a new pivot set.

Shared because I ran into this on a bike of my own. Tightened pivot bolt to printed torque using a wrench, snapped the bolt. Spoke to manufacturer and they confirmed wrong figured were printed. Recommended torque was 4nm, printed value was 10nm. Bolt replaced by the manufacturer.

Apparently on some bikes or runs of bolts, that NM print is the bolt limit, not the normal torque settings... Contact Scott dealers and see what's going on.

Yeah man I can 100% agree with this. Despite what the scale says I feel way faster on this than my anthem, both up and especially down. Really great bike. The traction out of the saddle on climbs is insane and the confidence on the down and rough stuff is super great too...

I have Sywurms old Al5, and with the Reba, GX eagle shifting, SLX 1x crank, guide RE brakes, spez saddle, and Lyne bars with foam grips, standard wheels with Barzo/Saguaro tubeless tyres and a Sunrace 12spd cassette I'm still weighing in at 14.5kgs. Now,i have a heavy Seatpost, and that weight is with M540 pedals and spez bandit strap with a tube and bomb and lever and Ryder plug tool, considering all of those are on there its not the worst but still heavy. They've beefed up certain areas to overcome some weaknesses on their older frame designs, which, as a 115kg rider I'm quite pleased with, but it's no weight weenie and trying to make it so won't be economical...

Why not just paint and the wrap with VPS? Powder coat isn't impervious anyway and an absolute ballache, near impossible, to touch up. Paint and wrap will keep it looking good and no risk to alloys.

Why, did your parents call you S-Works?

Apparently these are used on some bikes brake hoses on OEM builds, looks like more for gravel and road than MTB brakes... Not sure on spares being available but if I was you I would just replace the hose with a full brake hose from lever to caliper as the conectamajig clearly isn't suiting your needs anyway.

To be fair, 100% of people exposed to oxygen die. Well, Jesus excluded apparently but I'm rounding that Stat up.

While a jimmied system might work in theory, just don't do it. Swap the crank arm or buy a new crank to match...

Ya using a polar soft strap and it's been going strong for a long time... Great swap

Get a specialized tube... They're thinner walled and roll up much smaller. You can also, at a stretch, use a 26inch tube in a 29 wheel to get you home. Most expensive alternative is the tubolito tubes, but at nearly 600 bones it's a bit of a ballache.

Yeah you only need to really spend if you want a 10t small gear. Loads of 50-11t cassettes will fit on a classic Shimano/sram freehub shape.

For sure. Nowadays it generally means it has tubeless tape installed and if you're lucky, tyres that can be converted... But that's not always the case.

Proper tubeless tape is always preferred, as duct tape and gorilla tape(to a lesser extent than duct tape) will absorb sealant too. But the best fallback is always the ghetto method, which works a treat, is cheap, and I've converted the strangest combos to tubeless using it.

Wannabees trails are open and easy enough for a kid for sure.

I just pinch the open side of the wheels with a rag or my old T shirts, and cycle the gears around until all the muck is off... Hasn't failed me yet and doesn't take much time or effort. Ive found it gunks up heavily when too much chain lube is applied but I'm no expert.