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ichnusa

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Everything posted by ichnusa

  1. Highly recommend a through-axle (either 20 or 15mm) Then, short stem (+/- 70mm) and wide bars...
  2. grips are like saddles... your personal choice I love my lizard skin chargers (non lock-on)
  3. damn thats nice
  4. I fully understood why they need to be threaded that way. You were right in 2 ways and wrong in 1: 1) wine helped 2) like a nut on a bolt - it can screw either way onto a bolt 3) it was white wine and much more than a glass! never too old to learn
  5. not sure that i agree... why is the BB thread the way it is? "right side is wrong and left side is right" and it has been tapped by a single thread am i being a stupid wannabe?
  6. Just for interest sake: cant you tap it from the inside (closest to the frame) and insert the coil from there as well? You'll have to cut the last bit of the coil to allow threading from the outer/other side...
  7. Oliver... that is a pretty bold statement to make. Have you ever ridden a Tallboy? They are amazing bikes, regardless of the wheelsize. They ride amazingly well. You must be one of a handful of people in the world who has that point of view!
  8. 27 L per minute... hmmm roughly half a liter per second... not enough air volume I've previously seated the both beads of the tubeless tire with a normal tube, then deflated it again and carefully (as to only unseat one bead) removed the tube. Followed by inserting tubeless valve, slime and pump with foot-pump. This way it halves the amount of air escaping and increases your chance of seating it with a footpump. This way is harder with non-tubeless tires or tires that fit loosely or go on easily. They come unseated when removing the tube...
  9. look at the up-side: the harder they are to fit, the less likely the are to burp!
  10. Yea baby!
  11. HUH? sorry, dont think it was me... double faceplant
  12. Firstly, check the position of the derailleur. The outer arm of the cage should be just a couple of millimeters above the large chainring when above it and it should be parallel to the chainset when looking from the front or above. Then you can start tinkering with the cable tension and limit screws...
  13. I believe in reliability and cornering grip above a couple of grams. Would rather have a blast on the ST, no sidewall issues at an almost imperceivable weight penalty. There is no such thing as an ultra lightweight and strong tire....
  14. HAHA! snap!
  15. also drill a little hole (6mm) in the bottom of your BB shell to allow the water, that will inevitably collect there, to drain
  16. http://nsmb.com/4365-combat-ready/
  17. how do you know your torque wrench needs to be re-calibrated?
  18. are going to try ride over water?
  19. Yes, use SRAM links, they work fine...
  20. What a bunch of royal morons... remind me never to go riding in Groenkloof, but rather where people are friendly and courteous. There is no excuse for being rude, no matter how much of a pro you think you are. If you want track all for yourself, find a IDT...
  21. BOMBPROOF Insightful, thanks... And your opinion on all this 26+3" hype? (log off, throw away computer, will be back in a week when the flames have died down)
  22. point taken johan... You could drive around in a Corola when you have the will and means to drive a Ferrari or Lexus for that matter. What would you buy if money was not an issue and if you were to build up your dream bike?
  23. Maybe this will help...
  24. No, the syringes are better quality plastic, better o-ring seals (with spare rings), ergonomic handles and the there are better quality adapters... And can be used for Elixer, Code and Juicy brakes. Have a closer look
  25. These rubber ferules do keep the dirt out, but also create a bit of their own resistance (which is what you are trying to prevent). Having said that, cables stay much cleaner with these gizmo's...
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