MoreTrails

Not everyone is a fan of these. I like 'em, have used them for years. JUST DON'T LOOSE THE LITTLE PLASTIC BALL... That part i don't think is available for sale anywhere.

Palaeodom I've used or set up the following combo's: UST Mavic 819 rims with UST Maxxis X-Mark / non-UST WTB Prowler SS - rims make the job really easy as they are UST specific. Prowler sidewalls leak air for a bit, but otherwise works like a bomb. Side walls are really floppy and soft, but no issues as yet, been running that combo for about a year and onto my second Prowler. X-Mark UST was a doddle to fit (as it shoud being LUST specific - hurt the pocket though) and didn't loose an inch of air till it wore out a year later. Tough as nails tire, just a little weighty, but a fit and forget item. Sealant used was Slime, then cheap Ryder sealant with about 25ml water added to make it more liquidy which resulted in a quicker seal actually. SunRingle Non UST rims with Joe's liners & Non UST Conti Vertical (Gatorskin equivelent - can't remember the name right now) + cheap ass Vee Rubber DH tire non UST, well worn with a couple holes. Used Slime - worked for everything except all but the most stubborn holes in the Vee Rubber tire. But after a bit of a leak, sealed right up. The Conti was actually as easy to fit as the X-Mark above. My mate road that conversion till it wore out. Cross Max SL UB rims with non UST Rocket Rons. What $%*^%^* ball ache to get bead to seat. I will never try and fit Schwalbe tires again, tubeless that is. However, tires and Slime sealant worked EVENTUALLY and are still going. Sidewalls are a little porrous though. A mate of mine did a ghetto tubeless conversion with bmx tube, Sludge sealant, DT Swiss 5.1D's and Maxxis High Roller + Minion R. Was a bit of a bugger to get the ghetto rim strips to seat with the tire + rim and they always leaked at the bead. The non UST tires however never sprang a leak or "burped" off the rim. They were single ply tires, not double ply DH tires if that interests you. I would advise using water based sealant (Slime, Sludge, Ryder Sealant) as its easier to clean up the mess, doesn't delaminate tires like Stan's or Joes does, and it is hopefully friendlier to the enviro.... Likely??? Higher pressures mean you won't pinch flat as easily, but then again that is why you are converting to tubeless and allowing yourself to run a lower pressure for more grip...no? I would imagine the side wall deflects less so making it more suseptible to damage from sharp trail debris (well this is what I tell myself when pumping my tires to 30psi or just less... ). Softer tires are suppose to roll over or deflect around obstacles a little easier and hold grip, not skid across the top? I am sure there are plenty alternate theories... As always it is personal choice, some people won't like the way I ride my tires, but then again I don't like the way some mates run theirs... Experiment with pressures and sealant types, keep a spare tube or two handy and when you do resort to a tube to get you home.....don't loose your tubless valve, they not cheap and you feel like a chop when you can't find it and remember it is on that nice flat rock you found yesterday to sit on while you fixed your tire. OH YES, a compressor is your best buddy! Happy trails

Yip, we are some of the lucky ones. Bring that mtb down here for a spin, happy to show you around. The wind might scare you though...

Trust a Cape townian to confuse the issue - its like we just have like to much relaxing time here hey man....like really sorry for the confusion and all, but we like can't read the instructions down here....

I want one for my trail bike....

Don't forget about "chain growth" on a full sus... everything may end in tears if you rip your drop off, off your frame

Not quite, I think...sort of! Just kidding, bottom mount means the clamp is below the linkages for the FD - i.e. closest to the BB. Top pull means cable comes directly down the back of the seat tube into clamp on the FD and pulls upwards causing FD to move outwards (bottom pull would mean the cable would follow the down tube and under the BB, like an old Cannondale). SOunds right...in my head Top mount means the clamp is above the linkages and cage part of the FD. Basically, if you can't fit the FD on the bike cause the sing arm gets in the way, then its a top mount. Yes, you need to buy a bottom mount top pull for a 30.9 seatpost (well thats what it is on my 08 model). Otherwise, if possible, take the frame to the LBS just to make sure of the tube size. I am sure as, that the outside diameter is 31.6....not sure why though . Happy hunting.

Any dates noted when the Epic prologue is hitting Tokia? Keep us posted about maintenance dates....

Hey Skylark 2005 Shova was designed around a 130mm fork, there weren't 140mm ones developed yet. The new ones, 09 onwards were designed around 140mm. Have ridden a shova with 100mm on it and its just not cricket. I have a 130mm currently and its well balanced, but will be upgrading to a 140mm soon. Anything over that and you need to bump up the pressure in shock otherwise things start to bottom out more regularly. Sell the 100, buy a 140mm. FD is a bottom mount top pull for a 30.9 seat post - so I think it could be a clamp size of 31.6...not sure why that seems like the right number. Top mount won't fit, swing arm gets in the way - tried that, landed up buying another XT FD that did fit....expensive experiment. The Deore ones work just as well, but some people are bike tech sluts... My mate sold his 2010 Shova medium we were discussing...sorry guy

Drongo - running a 32 x 11-32 on my Shova - works a dream. Your suggestion of a 34 x11-34/36 would be ideal - although I haven't found to run out of gears yet with my 1x9. Did the Argus on a 42 x 11-25 and it was great - you can only go so slow (or so fast... ) and only suikerbossie was a little uncomfortable. So do it, with a chain guide (I use an MRP XCX 1 and it works a treat)

Whoop Whoop! There is another mall down the road that has cinema's (me thinks)....have a really good steak house too (cheap as well compared to the ones here in CT...) Bring on WC 2011 - so stoked to be attending once again!

Sounds like a standard issue with Mavic - I have been fighting with my Cross Ride freehub for years. I found the best solution for the problem. I gave the finger to the Mavic hub and bought a Novatec (cause that was what I could afford, but I would have preferred a Hope). And praise the lord, the problems, they went away!!!

I think Life Cycles has had so much hype that people have downloaded it from iTunes, the official website, there buddy with large net connection....anywhere they can get their hands on it - It is a superb piece of cinematography. Yes Clay has been shooting (I think its called) 3 Minute Gaps? Maybe I got the name a little wrong, but as far as I know it has been a 2 year project (couple of teazers out on VitalMTB.com). Maybe that will be screened... Actually any reason to drink beer and watch bike films is good!

Are they having a movie screening on the friday like last time - I think 2009 was the premier of The Tipping Point...?

Why oh why would you be going to the southern cape when the mountain bike world cup is on in Maritzburg? Don't get me wrong, I also grew up in Ge-orge but dude, the world cup circus is coming to town! Sell the kids, donate the wife, leave a 500kg back of pet food open at home and GO!!! Oh yes, all the trails Bos suggested are great. Also check out the DH course above the Witvontein forestry station in George and if you want to do dirt road riding with elevation - Montague pass, or flat - dirt roads around the back of Wilderness down to Sedgefield along he edges of the vlei's - beautiful views and easy going if you taking someone with you who isn;t a die hard...

The 'Pro' brand comes out with a hanger that you mount your bike vertically in - i.e. you hook your front/back wheel into and the bikes hangs vertically on the wall. Have three at home and they do the business - if you have crap old mudbricks in your old victorian house, fix the hanger to a big square of 22mm timber and fix the plank to wall. spreads the load and works a bomb...

HOLY SH!T, That dude just plowed his way through the crowd, at pace....! Now I know why I pick fights with trees...

Seems like no one has ever done this ground breaking route before....

So, looking at doing a nice long off road ride this weekend. And it sounds quite idealic - linking Lebanon trails to Oak Valley, sort of Cape Epic-ish for cheapskates... SO I have heard that Thandi trails have been closed, and obviously ones doesn't want to trespass on land between Lebanon and Oak Valley (like Paul Cluver estate etc). Does anyone know if there is a route, excluding the N2, that one could link these 2 trail centers together. Naturally a dirt route would be cool, but I suppose a tar "B" road could also be thrown in the mix. Also, distance - how much mileage (pain... ) would one be looking at? I have linked Thandi and Lebanon before which was great, but "now for something completely different" as Monty Pythn would say. Any advice routes etc is welcome. And yes, I know you can drive between the 2 with the bike on the bakkie

Seeing as though you are doing great things for local riding talent, why not keep the lad home grown and happy with a Morewood Kwela 26? I imagine tire range may be easier to find for 26'? Parts, something robust and easy to service...maybe keep it a 9 speed to keep running costs in check? Go on you mate for sponsoring a local lad - I am sure he will do you and SA proud!

Wrong Place - Cyclelab - answer is yes. Check with Kiwi, he is sure to have far better deals for you. And his company is super easy to deal with...drop him a PM, he is your man!

Skylark, I have seen the Mbuzi dressed for XC business and it works well. Obviously you have not so light starting weight, so choice in parts is critical. But you could use say a 150mm Fox32 fork as opposed to a Lyrik or Fox36 to drop weight. A light set of wheels and so well chosen parts and you are A for Away! Bonus is the Mbuzi comes with a DHX Air shock, so you can ride it plush but bump up the bottom out threshold for the bigger hits...

Last I checked the BCD dimensions were pretty unique - so once you in that system then thats it. I may be wrong though. They do look the business though.... You know what, caution to the wind...throw it and be done! Post the pic's of course...

You should be shot for putting flat bars on a AM bike.... No seriously, thats the beauty of these types of bikes - build 'em up (super) light and race 'em or slightly more hardcore for your inner DH rocket afterburner

Wern, that sled looks mint dude!