kennyg

easy fix, fiddle the drive side spacer size.

XX1 is great, the gaps in the gearing take some getting used to, but i can highly recommend 1 x11. I actually found it saves my legs a little as i dont stick in the big ring, and force my way over stuff. I run 34 and 36 tooth on the front.

26"flash, is BB30 168, recommended. 28-42 on a 26 inch for the rings, on 11-36 cassette, going The whole XX spider should be intercahangable to XO cranks, I havent checked I think it works.

I think the there is a larger marketing induced technical slant on that article. If they openly relying on market feedback,that they dont yet have they openly admit to saying we taking a big chance. All the issues that they have addressed as problems have been dealt with by all the other brands, to me it sounds like they fired a lot of engineers and hired some accountants and marketing people instead. In my eyes Giant always made great 26 inch bikes, but none of the 29ers, really cut it compared to the competition. I rode XTC and anthemns, and they were never an Epic/Scalpel/Flash/Air 9/ Stumpjumper. So yeah, maybe putting a bit more tech into 29 inch wheels, would have saved them a lot of 27.5 inch investment. But hey, have fun, ride your bike, it doesnt matter what the wheelsize is.

Post a pic, Alu is normally not feasible, due to major heat treatment requirements.

Also check that your frame can accomadate a lefty. ito the height of the head tube, sizes large and up may mean that a lefty max will be needed. As for the forces, the 90mm 29er lefty is 490mm, crown to axle, which is about the same as most 80mm forks 29er, and the 100mm is 505mm which is a the same as most 100mm forks. If you going to the 110mm lefty you may be in for some geometry and handling oddities. As for the difference in forces, well its not really an issue as the total sum and the direction of loading is similar, if not better distributed over the downtube to head to junction, than a standard fork. I dont know of any manufacturers that waiver warranty ( on modern frames) if a lefty is fitted.

I pulled the chain line dead centre sprocket on the cassette, to inline with the crankset. I also ran an sworks crank and spider, to the outer.

I just battled an XX1 setup. The cables are super sensitive. Check the tension in the cable is perfect and that you can drop into the 10. If you can drop into the 10 and cover the 42, check that the loops in the cable are not too long. This is a low tension point in the mech, so any poor cable seating will be problematic.

MTB 29er SS Custom Ti Frame Niner Fork Tufo MTB Tubs 8.0 Kg R2700/kg @ retail, most parts 2nd hand or demo. MTB 29er HT Cannondale Flash Tufo Tubs Lefty Carbon XX mix drive 8.8 Kg R /kg ~R3700 @ retail, bought second hand and demo stuff. MTB Dual 29er 9.7 kg final weight, estimate. Costing coming through ~R3300/kg.

I have one that works in the 8-bar range, its thicker than stans but has last 8 months in my tubs so far. Stans sometimes, cant stay sealed initially on the high road pressures.

Biggest problems are not really geo, related. Fork, need disk compatible. Hubs, disc compatible/ Rims brake compatible. Frame, carrying a rear disk, and if you use an MTB the Top tube length will make riding in drops interesting, or drop a frame size. For me, a rigid MTB frame with drop bars is your best bet, running a road crank set maybe a problem due to the wider Q factor and tyre allowance. Rims, old road tubs, best bet. laced to some tough spokes and mtb hubs. just my 2c.

Look Every brand will try "defend its honour". Every distributor will get themselves out of the work of doing a warranty claim. If you need help with inspecting the problem, I will help out, if it is a manufacturing defect, or a defect caused inline with its intended design, and the other terms and conditions are suitable you will get a warranty. It just might take a few kicks in the right place.

My money is on dry sealant...

pull it out, clean it. Check the bearings are all smooth, and without play. Put it back together.

300 bucks. Fedex

The box is a 3/4 speed auto, CVT. The travel of the CVT is limited, the CVT also slows the accelerator pick up as the thing functions off the engine and wheel speed relationship. The dropping of a gear makes it noisy, tiptronic mode doesnt stop the CVT from working it just locks you into one of the gears.

it was the worst SUV i drove. I had one as a company car for 3 months and it stank. That auto box is hell, the pick up terrible. The space and features are great, but the gearbox is a major downfall. General road manners ok. just my 2c.

Its bike racing gents, if you wanted to play tiddly winks he would have. Their was no malice in his move. He is a hard racer. The pee story, thats just wrong in any sport.

R27k.Frame only.

What about a turner Czar? I am busy building one, should be done by friday.

Dont plan on a wetsuit swim. In Dec, the dam temps are between 26-30 deg. Your only hope to get a wetsuit legal swim, is cold and lots of rain in the villiers to Harrismith area. Prepare to cook. Do we have any insight to how the course layout look yet? It goings to be a great event.

I wrestled a saguaro onto an arch. One ride i ran out of slime and the tyre would not hold air. I decided to ride to the car, I rode slowly. No issues. Got back, slapped in a snolly, put in some slime. and the tyre is still great.

34 :17 29er rigid. Pretty much ride everything. Long climbs get tough, short tech sections catch me out sometimes. Tar is just a spin out.

I have 2 versions, a thin 1-3mm hole cover in my TUFO line up. I also have an extreme sealant 0-4mm. They both work the non extreme was meant for road and the extreme for MTB. I run it my tubs MTB and road, with no issues.

29er run the 26/39 ring set 26er 28/42. The cassette should be an 11-36, for both. If you strong and climb like a demon, the 28/42 set will work on a 29er. Also look at 1x11