kennyg

Its a joke until something happens. My staff all got new on-the-job type insurance, through the company. One of my eager to please guys happily filled in the form and returned it. The say 25 looked at me like I was an alien, needless to say, my special friend managed to get himself trapped in some heavy equipment and unfortunately the ambulance that took him away crashed where the 3 occupants were killed. Needless, to say I had the other insurance forms on the desk the next day.

Surely you can get an enve, Reynolds or another roval rim only for around 6k. Check out ebay and shop around. Ageed with Wyatt, wheel builder is your next issue.

I can supply a 22m tubular clincher and a 21mm tubular clincher. Have stock of both.

I ride cheap carbons. They are about 500g lighter in the whole wheelset than the alloy version. It seems like a lot and is over the performance stretch. On a very hilly ride you can improve your ave. speed 2km/h. But they dont last, I wont race them on Rocky races, although I have and they survived. They do dent, but they can be repaired. R300 a shot. The price for the wheel set complete comes in around R16k, on the same bike you can feel the difference, generally a little more harsh. (stiffer), less vibration, climbs easier.

is this really a topic worthy of discussion, surely the clock time as defined in our number system will be either under 3 or not.

I prefer the Hot and Dry, but the occasional wet ride is great to. I dislike cold....like sub 10 deg, and I pretty much stay at home.

if you want to know the difference, here is a rough estimate: Each 2 tooth cog upfront is close enough to a 2 tooth spread at the back. So on the back the 11 doesnt have a 2 tooth brother, but the 12,14,16,18 are all two step variables. So running 36-12, 34-11 are less than 5 % apart, which makes for about 90 mm different each revolution of the wheel. You can get a feeling for the difference running on your cassette. I found running 2 teeth larger at the front make me run 1 gear higher in the cassette, I run 34, so dropping to 32 lets me run one lower. This means you only really have meaningful differences in the top and bottom cogs in the cassette.

Well, you have another option. Run the XX1 crankset, the 11/36 at the back and that gives you options all the way down to a 28 tooth front end. The conversion will cost the same as the general lee.

105

In your incident, what are you expecting to gain from ASG/Sidi? Its sounds like driving your BMW into a lamp post and saying that BMW is responsible for the mistake. As a guy that examines engineering flaws and circumstance, your claim fails on two basic levels: 1. Warranty period - 18 months, could related to 10 000km. 2. Crash - A highlight of exceptional circumstance applied to the product.

The nice thing on the turner is if you run a dropper SP, the cable routing already exists, you just need a double brackets. The Czar is really stiff laterally, and is built for bigger guys. I swopped to the Turner from a Scalpel, so not sorry at all.

This is the only pic I have, I was still busy with the build, cable and grips are long since done.

Tactic I rode the Vipa, Czar,Sworks epic, Scalpel. I chose the czar, most comfortable of the 4 and the best descender. The second in the agility side to the Vipa on the downs but far more plush and compliant. The flat single track makes for a fast sworks but didnt give you confidence on the descends because of a harsh rear end. Its on par with a Scapel, ito of race and trail orientation but not as racy as the Epic and the Vipa. I run mine with a lefty, so its incredibly compliant, and at 10 kg. With marathon and stage racing in your choice conditions a scalpel or czar are both good bets. If you went more trail orientated, look at the Pivot or the Ibis bikes.

I can do you on 32mm wide CX tyres or 50mm mtb tyre 2.0. The 32mm has very low profile.

You need the GXP BB tool, to loosen the base, an allen key( loosen these before loosening the base), some grease, replacement bearings and a bit of common sense, and your done. Order Enduro bearings from Rush and your sorted for the next 2-3 years.

I have R1, XX and Elixer CRs on my bikes. The best brake, for balance of the 3 is the R1. The XX are the loudest ( XTR ice rotors), organic front and sintered rear, both squeal like a grated pig. The stopping power on the Elixer's and the R1 are about the same but the modulation on the R1 is superior. The R1 handles heat better than the other two, have never had them run more than the gentle buzz on me. Bleeding, all 3 bleed about the same. Ease to change pads the same, pad cost about the same.

n + 1 is the answer here.

The FD on the 2 x and 3 x systems are the same, the shifter makes the decision. The 10 speed systems are all similar and cable routing is frame dependant.

Just do the sanding thing, i think the orginal resin treatment to the pads causes the noise. I have had avids on my bikes for 4 years, also on a flash. 13000 km. Four sintered brake pad sets and a bleed once. They have been really good, and only noisey when the new pads are put in for 250km or so. A wet or muddy ride solves the resin issue, and after a good clean they quiet again.

When they apart its just more fun... No real benefit, unless you a weight weenie.

running 34, its seemed to be a good balance, I have enough gears for climbing but only really use the bottom half of the cassette. Will use a 36 for some races.

I have had IDT punctures from glass too. Normally long flat shards. I have also had a tread delimate and whip a blue line( from black tread) on my @#s. ha ha..

I wouldnt go the hardening route, the cassettes these days are *&^* hard by engineering standards. My only feasable solution would be coatings. Look at a titanium coating or a cobalt coating. Value for money and bang for the buck. a simple comparison is a drill, a normall HSS drill, will drill 3 holes in a 304 SS, a nickel plated drill 18 holes, a ti coat 55 holes, cobalt coat 70 holes. translated that into kms. you will have a significant improvement in cassette life.

I supposed you dont think they straight either :ph34r: Have had 4 lefties, two bike got conversions, from fox, the only shock that can have a similar feel is a sid dual air, but it will take a week to balance and find that niche that lefties have out the box. currently have 2 and niner rigid. For us normal peeps, the % difference is so low, a couple grams here and there is no issue. Personal preferance.

rush sports. They do the Endura bearings and have a good range at reasonable price.