kennyg

I have an MTB tyre with less tread than the Furious Fred, its a tubby, 500g for a 29er on a 220TPI casing( can do a 120 TPI case which puts you in 450g territory but its not advised), which is pretty durable, its available in 1.9 width, so it feels like a road bike when you ride it.

Give yourself a couple weeks, if you can ride a recumbant it would be a good start, 4 weeks in i would look at getting onto the stationary bike, hard walking etc. Hiking is great here, lots of vertical ascent keeps power and endurance. But rather heal properly, you will return to strength far quicker, listen to the body, pain and discomfort generally mean stop, unless supervised by a professional.

on the sworks, by the spider only, the sworks cranks are great. They are 168 btw.

yep, built my wifes flash and 2 others. 156 gives super limited clearance on the chain stays. less than 1mm.

168

Endura bearing are your best best, locally available @ rush or PM, I will arrange.

Chafe cream is your friend: On the bike, use a water based version and put it in the heel of shoe, it help you lip in for a quick transition, dont put too much in or you heal silides around. Water running off you from the swim will dilute it off. On your chamois, although extremely tough to do and not always neccessary, a non-water based version hangs around long enough to be useful on the bike. You can also do it with your running shoes, spread it out on the tongue of the shoe, or if you battle blisters at any particular point. Make sure you wash them afterwards.

Your 931 and Columbus XCr is pretty much the same material, similar properties, at the point now cost can make the decision, the reason I chose columbus is they do forks and a bunch of other stuff that makes creating a frame a lot easier.

I would stay away from the 953 for Mtb, the strength ratings are great but the material is not as tough as it should be, i did my home work and samples and the whole bit and settled on the Columbus range.

To the OP. On base level barbon bikes, you are not getting lighter weight or better performance than the Al bike. The base level carbons dont exactly have much R and D behind them and are generally copies of the big brand bikes at HT level. The major difference wont be flex or weight, but the natural vibration absorbtion the carbon bikes have. In my opinion, get onto the best Alu, HT you can find. Look for good wheels,fork, group in that order of priority.

nope, shouldnt have a problem.

And everyone forgets the Turner Czar in the same price range, and similar weight too.

Get a CX bike and ride on the dirt roads...

Obviously they have too much machine time on their hands. You could cast the whole thing and tap the holes. Giving better strength to weight and saving on assembly time. Only bearing surfaces would need touch machining. I am a fan of the 240 Dt and the 350 but not much else, had a 190 that almost killed me, 180 that shattered and a rear shock that got replaced in 3 hrs.

Heres one: 30 x 200m on 3:15 6000m or the good old 100 x100 on 2mins 10 000m (be prepared to not do anything else the rest of the day) Those are the sets imprinted in my mind, that the coach thought would be fun. Current triathlon base sets, 2 sessions per week: 100m easy 2 x 500 @7mins 4 x 200 @3mins 8 x 100 @2mins 4 x 50 @ 2 mins sprints 300 kick 300 pull 300 scull 100 easy Second: 300 easy 10 x 100m IM 2:30 5 x 200 @ 3mins 10 x 50 @ 45 sec 10 x 50 @ 1mins 300 Kick 300 Pull

How far and how fast are you looking for?

I just swopped out a scalpel 1 for a DWlink bike. I must say, super impressed. THat bike is going to be a killer.

Have 4 lefties, none have given any trouble, the 2013 lefty is pretty much a rock shock, so no real difference there.

The events were well organised, and generally good fun, I see them mixing in duathlon to get the numbers up, and going off road is a great idea.

it is a very strange size, not even imperial 3/8, 1/4, if you measure the thickness of the shaft in between the threads that also can help. The 8.8 cap screw should be fine, a 12.7 in cap screw is also not too normal. Could it be a worn M8, 7.6mm should start registering on the M8 scale.

Well, if cycling is the new golf, what did you expect. I just had a moan session with a client that didnt like the feel of a bike he begged me to source. I think courses should be closed for the weeks leading up to XC and DH events. Give the course builder a chance to define his precious. It is world class competition so the track needs to be that way too. I say then invited a cross-section of the group(pro to weekend warrior) to help with the chicken run and you got a good chance to keep everyone happy.

Guys, the only thing with running carbon, is what I call the pringle factor,the rim dont bend, but snap, or the rims dont seal due to crushing in the bead zone etc. Two brands i havent seen crush are Enve and Reynolds, all the others are no-where near the 400g mark in clincher form. I have seen Rovals crush, DTs crush ( even in alu) and a number of ZTRs, but given the popularity thats acceptable. This is the main reason why I went tubbies, was to get away from crushed carbon clincher. Yes you still damage the carbon tubs, but they are 100g per rim lighter and you dont loose air if your rim is damaged.Also way lower pressures can be run.

Please ride some more in Europe, some tyre slicing paradise there. Yes, some of the tracks are better prepared but the marathon paths are just as brutal as our local stuff.

I can do tubbies, 300g a rim, but 28 hole. ( I can organise ENVE tubs, which are 50% more expensive @ 280g) I will recommend them if riding a dual in marathon, or if you doing a lot of XC riding. Wheelset sub 1400g, and tubbies are 500g each. Pretty much the lightest method of mountain biking tyres and wheels.( only 85 Kg weight limit) 1600g wheelset gives a 105 kg weight limit, also super prices.

I would chuck the cash, at a stiffer wheelset not a lighter one. @ 92 kg, you are right on the limit for most light weight stuff so be careful where you spend the buck. The DTs work great and going to a compact for hills would give you a better feel, it will be faster initially but then you need to concentrate on rpm, and loosing some muscle..