kennyg

My turner Czar is large and in at 9.8kg XC/Xterra build, @ R60k, Carbon wheels take it To R70k. Marathon build 10.5 Kg @ R63k. Both run Lefties, both XX1, just bottle holders, wheels + tyres differ.

A quick immediate fracture, either a faulty unit or a seriously over tight cassette lock ring.

Ratty watch the swimming, it does put a bit of pressure on the top of the calf, as a result of the flick in the kicking motion. Get into a pilates and core where you can control the stretch and use of it. Unfortunately cardio might be difficult to get into. I sympathise with the calf injury, last year I blew the right calf, in Feb, this year @ xterra blew the left, I did my first tri, in 3 months this weekend. It was tougher than usual. My advice take the time, lift training levels slowly, and stay away, from hard floor sports with rapid direction change ( Action netball, indoor soccer, hockey on astro, squash)

6 sani s for me, 1 on SS. 29er 34-17, pushed 3 sections on day two and one on day 3. Currently ride 1 x 11, 34 up front. I really have no issues. All the 1 day racing I have done has been ok great on 34, even stepping to 36 for the faster stuff. The 32 is brand new in the box and might be on for multi-day racing. As for multi-day MTB and Triathlon, they literally a world apart. Other than cardio, and teaching your mind to suffer the carry over is pretty small.

I can sort you out on the tubby side... if that's what you keen on.

where's the guard part? I run a plastic guard over the back portion of the wheel for commuting,( JHB had a very wet feb/march) its probably 100mm longer than that. In spongy and full flow conditions my guard makes a difference, it allows you to wear glasses, but most of the **** hits the bottom third of the guard The cover and benefit of this guard is very limited. It will only really stop that spray that the wheel throws up and you ride into. I would lengthen it by 50 or so mm and give a little more wrap with a nice flare at the bottom. I like the mounting, Rshox, have less clearance than fox, but it looks pretty

Madmarc has you covered. Check the assembly of your BB first AS for spacers, they come from the press-fit kit. PF92/PF95 and PF30/BB30. If you get a full kit, they normally supplied with spacers. I have plenty left overs from various kits and most decent bike shops should have them around. Remember to check your logic, outer bearing race stays in the frame, shouldn't move, the seal should be tight on the outer, the inner bearing race should carry all the clamping forces, if not your assembly has gone astray.

I agree with the shops, the spacing is alright. The press fit BB needs a tapered/stepped spacer to run on the inner race of the BB bearing. I use one when I run a 36 tooth on my DS frame. Chain suck should never be a problem, as the guide/protector plate should be enough to keep the chain from sticking in the small ring. On a 34 tooth have 3-4 mm clearance, on the 36 its 1-2mm, I run a 1.5mm stepped shim to prevent the 36 from grinding on the plate. Don't forget as your suspension squats, the chain stay moves away from the chain ring. Your clearance looks like a 3-4mm.

Chernobyl bike..

I just built a CTD bike, front and rear. I must say, the rear is great, everything works extremely well, the CTD feature spends 99% of the time in T, with a little time in the other two. The fork, I never had an issue, once I set the rebound correctly, the fork was plush with limited bob, and the only grind I had was the C had some bob in, when the air setting was too low. just my 2c.

must be among the worst frame designers ever, if the saddle causes suspension fouling.

I use the guide line on duals: sub 10 Kg - awesome, world class level sub 11Kg - great bike, top local riders sub 12kg - still good, high end weekend warrior sub 13 kg- should start being marathon/trail specific orientation, weekend warrior sub 14 kg - entry level XC/marathon, long travel and trail orientated All the weights are for 29ers, 26 take a kg off each one. Costs are brand specific and it depends on a number of other choices too.

I have tubby MTB wheels that you can run 30-55mm tubby tyres on. Alu and carbons.

fast and flat, generally a lot of fun with plenty traffic for back markers.

Chuck out the kick board.... you wasting your effort. 1. easy way, lie on your back arms above your head and kick try get 8 to 12 cycles per breath. Make sure you don't splash too much. Theory here, gets your body into an ideal position 2. mid way - freestyle kick on your stomach, keep your hips high and your arms stretched out in front of you. head down, between your arms and side breath. 8 to 12 kick cycles. 3. Tough way- Freestyle kick on your stomach, hips high, arms stretched in front of you. Head up, front breath. Imagine you had a kick board under your arms. If you do 10 x 25 per session, starting easy and moving to the tougher sets, 3 -5 weeks will see a huge improvement in kicking. You cant go slower or learn too many bad habits with this method.

dam he must be bored or its to cold to ride a real bike.

you just need a longer chain too.

My inlaws have the same issue. We spent many years wooing 2 difficult landowners and driving/cutting some trail out in the cradle. Last week while riding one section we come across 8 riders, who insist they are on public land. They also then had a F off attitude towards us when we kindly asked them to go back in the direction they came from. Now after 8 years, the fence is up and the gate is locked.

cycle nerd.... but interesting none the less,

My last visit to the speed camera idea left me with the following: Certain equipment has a certain calibration range, so I don't think it is written exactly into law. Your fine should state the piece used and its calibration date. - but after driving a slow car( speed limits are a challenge) for the last 3 years means my facts may be out a little. The old stuff was 50-150 metres, this newer stuff is anything less than 400m and the fixed camera's 10m-50m.

Welcome to the joys of tolling...

I have more than 30 trips across the bay in the midmar format. If you can float and swim, 20 lengths in a 25m pool you can do it. your first one will be the toughest as you need to get used to the traffic.

I can put you onto MTB tubbies, save about a Kg, for a complete tyre and rim set up over a RaRa evo and crest. Rims retail @ R800 each and I have 10 x tyres left that will go for R1000. Performance is great, tyre is tough, flexible and rims are inexpensive. Biggest advantage to reduced rolling resistance and better cornering. Impossible to burp.

Telling stupid people they stupid is half the fun of thehub.

Hi Guys I have the TUFO High Composite tyre in stock, some are older( June 2013) and will pass them on @ discounted prices to make room for my next order. I also have tubular clinchers, for the non-believers out there that want to try tubbies on clincher rims. Sealant is also available, and it works.