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  1. 100% Vittoria tyres, absolutely the best wearing with great grip
  2. Hi there, I'm interested in the trainer. Where are you located?
  3. I would definitely run an Aggressor 2.9 x 2.3 with EXO (still fast rolling) - or the DD as opposed to a Crossmark for the rear and maybe an Ardent 2.9 x 2.25 (high volume tyre) on the front in the same. Going to these slightly more aggressive tyres in not going to make you climb much more difficulty and you'll have better cornering grip too. At almost around 100kg at one stage I ran Aggressor (27.5 x 2.3) at just over 2bar (30psi) no hassles and now I run that same tyre at 2.5bar when at the jump parks and I was 96kg running fine like this. Go tubeless too - way better
  4. I fully agree with STOKE and HAIRY - I had a hardtail where the braking was poor even with Shimano Deores and bedding in the pads properly did the world of good... Sand them down with some 800grit paper just so the glaze is gone and then do a bed in like GMBN suggests (find a hill like Stoke said) and when you think you are done - do it again lol As for a bleed I would say this may or may not be required but in order to improve the bite you should advance you pads a little. with the wheel out pull the lever a little to push to pads out a little more, wheel back and test to see if they bite sooner when pulling the lever. This could make a huge difference even when bedding the pads. Failing all this, if you have not done a bleed before and you are just going to give it a try, don't - take it to your LBS and let them bleed it - if the mess it up they have to sort it out. BTW - changed to 180 front and rear and with a bleed and pads advanced worked awesome (same brakes on my full sus now) and I ride hard and even when I was 96kg I had even power.
  5. I'd have to admit that I am a tad heavy ha ha ha, at 89 kg and run Foamo front and rear at 1.5 Front and 1.6 rear for riding Conties (incl. DH), Hoogies etc. and then around 1.60 Front and 1.7 rear (maybe a tad higher) when hitting the Skillspark or the jumps. Running DHF 2.3 Front and Aggressor 2.3 Rear on 19mm rims with Foamo inserts (would love to upgrade to at least a 24mm internal width but alas, it shall not be soon.
  6. Without reading anything else further down I would agree with this (experience talking here). A 10spd with 11-42 is 100% perfect for most riding when paired with a 30T NW up front or a 32T if you are stronger than me You can pick up a set of decent shifters on the hub for a steal and shop around for a cassette and chain (Chris Willemse/Cyclelab had a Deore 11-42 10spd cassette for R 550 I think)
  7. Got myself this sweet Lyne 30mm Riser bar and 50mm stem as a birthday gift.. Super stoked seeing as I was the first dude to buy the new riser.
  8. Where you level out the lever and make sure it is higher than the caliper (the more vertical you can get the bike the better -for rear brake). Open the bleed port on the lever, screw in the cup and fill it around a third with mineral fluid and then kind of pump the lever a bit and then flick the lever. Tap the brake hose from the caliper up to release air bubbles and this will generally assist with getting rid of spongy feeling. You may need to take the pads our and advance the pistons slightly.
  9. I bought a Bell full face helmet at a Seco d hand store for next to nothing and learned a hard lesson.. Use the right brand for the job... I used cheap paint and ended up having to sand the whole thing down again.. The using a Rustoleum plastic primer and then Rustoleum spray and laqcuer after.. Looks decent now.. So yep mask it very carefully and go for it dude.. Expect to pay around 250 to 300 for primer and spray... For a full face at R100 it was worth it
  10. In this case I agree, cassette looks fine. Normally 2-3 chains at just over 75% wear=1 cassette. This chainring looks toasted though
  11. Had a terrible Giant branded shock on my Trance 4 (now a Trance 1 ????) and got a great deal on this Monarch RT3 and man it's amaze-balls compared to old shock
  12. Like I said in my previous post I cringe when I see an item new or used for more or the same as it is at the LBS or online. If you bought it, it is still 2nd hand even if unused.
  13. As everyone mentioned here it is economic crunch time in SA and things to take longer to sell. I had recently sold some goodies that came off a Trance that I bought 2nd hand for really good price and I sold the stuff at reasonable pricing and was negotiable to a reasonable degree. I rebuild the Trance with my better components and then rebuilt and sold my hardtail with good components compared to what was stock. Hydraulic brakes, 3x10 with XT RD, SLX shifters and a Epicon 130mm air fork, tubeless etc. All this being said the bike was worth more in my mind but if you searched for bike to buy most people would look at the bike's price as stock in the shop and forget about all the upgraded parts. I Citi Golf is still a Citi Golf even if it has a TSI engine in but, I reckon as buyers and sellers we need to be reasonable. I got my price and even though I felt it was worth more the market did determine was I would reasonably get. I cringe when I see an item new or used for more or the same as it is at the LBS or online. If you bought it, it is still 2nd hand even if unused.
  14. The Titan is a bit expensive, drop it and sell it... Be reasonable as bikes devalue. In your post here you say a 120mm bike but your Titan classified says Enduro. I guess you want a 29r and I'd second the Pyga and there are tons of Cambers.. You could check out Bike addict they have a 140mm Silverback Surface for 31k and SCOTT Spark 970 (2019) for 26k
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