Are you using a SS specific chain on your SS

[henningvr]

WAG (Wild Ass Guess) here - are you sure your chain is straight, iow the alignment between the chainring and cog is 100% straight? Weird that it drops with a NW chainring.

[Pete Dip]

WAG (Wild Ass Guess) here - are you sure your chain is straight, iow the alignment between the chainring and cog is 100% straight? Weird that it drops with a NW chainring.

Hi Henningvr,

I think it is straight…?

Was my first attempt at a SS conversion and set up.

 

It looks pretty straight. Ive looked at it from front, back, top...

If it is out, it can't be out by more then 2 or 3mm.

 

So the next question is:

What is the correct method to set up/check chain line?

[Pieter1]

Mine jumped off when the tension was to slack.

I'm using the SS chain from Rapide. I went through a phase were I broke a chain a month, got the Rapide chain and no problem since.

[Pulse]

I think it could only be either the chain line, or chain length.

[Pulse]

O, and Rapidé chains for sure!

[Stretched@Birth]

I had a similar issue, using the cogs that came with the Fire-eye SS kit. Changed to the Endless Bikes Kick-Ass-Cog and not had an issue since (http://www.endlessbikes.com/products/anodized-kick-ass-cogs/).

 

I don't tension too tight, as I feel that puts strain on the drivetrain and causes unnecessary wear, the chain needs a little bit of room to move.

[Flippa]

I had a similar issue, using the cogs that came with the Fire-eye SS kit. Changed to the Endless Bikes Kick-Ass-Cog and not had an issue since (http://www.endlessbikes.com/products/anodized-kick-ass-cogs/).

 

I don't tension too tight, as I feel that puts strain on the drivetrain and causes unnecessary wear, the chain needs a little bit of room to move.

 

If you tension the chain too tightly, you are going wear BB's like anything.

 

Make sure that the cog you use has a wide base. I had a cheapie narrow cog from a SS kit and had the same problem dropping chains. Changed to a decent wide base cog and no more problems.

 

Oh, and 8 speed chain is all you need.

[NINER_boy]

Hi Guys,

 

Please excuse my ignorance, I'm new to Single Speeds.

I have a question for the Gurus...

 

My chain is jumping off the cog when I'm out the saddle, on short rocky, bumpy climbs.

 

My current set up is:

Raceface Aeffect narrow/wide 32t chain ring (supposedly accepts 9,10&11 speed chains).

A 9 speed chain.

And a Ringle 18t cog (which is narrow).

Chain tension is very tight, as tight as it can go before it starts binding.

I'm riding a Trek Stache with sliding "strangle hold" drop outs, so tensioning the chain is very easy.

 

What is my fault and how can I correct this problem of the chain bouncing(?) jumping of the cog? It is extremely frustrating!

 

Also, every now and again there is a loud "clack" from somewhere in the drive chain, like a tooth just broke off, or the chain is threatened to snap… any guesses what that is and how I can fix it?

 

And lastly, a question about chains… One bike mechanic told me a single speed specific chain will work with my narrow wide chain ring, another bike mechanic said it won't, because the distance (length) between the pins and rollers in the chain is different and it will damage the teeth of the chain ring…???

Any one got any further input on that?

 

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

Many thanks!

Hi there

 

Could also be a worn out "stretched" chain, or worn out cogs.

Make sure both chain and cog are new when fitting.

Slack chain also "jumps".

 

Chainline is SUPER important, so get it 100% aligned.

8/9 speed chain is all you need.

 

Hope you get this sorted, as it can be soooooo irritating.

 

Happy hoopin

[Pete Dip]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replys.

 

The chain was brand new, as was the cog. I have done 480 Km on then so far, so they are still basically brand new. The chain ring had only done 180km before I took off the 10spd cassette and did my SS conversion, so chain ring is also still pretty new…??? (no I didn't use the 10spd chain, I got a new 9spd one)

 

I am scared to try an 8spd because the chain ring (Race Face Aeffect narrow/wide direct mount) says it will accept a 9,10 or 11spd chain. Not sure if it will work smoothly with an 8 spd…? (someone cleverer then me needs to tell me the answer to that please).

 

The base of the Rapide 18t cog I am using is 7mm wide, so I don't think that is the problem. However the cog itself is only one thickness, which I think is narrow (as opposed to the narrow/wide teeth of the chain ring). Can you get such a thing as a narrow/wide cog? Is it necessary or should the normal Rapide cog be doing an adequate job?

 

Can someone tell me how to set up a perfect chain line? Is there a method, or do you just eyeball it??? What is the acceptable tolerance that you can be slightly off by?

 

Also, how could the chain length effect weather the chain jumps or not? Surely the chain length is dictated by the number of teeth on the chain ring, the cog, and how much play/adjustment you have in the sliding drop outs…?

 

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Pete.

[popcorn_skollie]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replys.

 

The chain was brand new, as was the cog. I have done 480 Km on then so far, so they are still basically brand new. The chain ring had only done 180km before I took off the 10spd cassette and did my SS conversion, so chain ring is also still pretty new…??? (no I didn't use the 10spd chain, I got a new 9spd one)

 

I am scared to try an 8spd because the chain ring (Race Face Aeffect narrow/wide direct mount) says it will accept a 9,10 or 11spd chain. Not sure if it will work smoothly with an 8 spd…? (someone cleverer then me needs to tell me the answer to that please).

 

The base of the Rapide 18t cog I am using is 7mm wide, so I don't think that is the problem. However the cog itself is only one thickness, which I think is narrow (as opposed to the narrow/wide teeth of the chain ring). Can you get such a thing as a narrow/wide cog? Is it necessary or should the normal Rapide cog be doing an adequate job?

 

Can someone tell me how to set up a perfect chain line? Is there a method, or do you just eyeball it??? What is the acceptable tolerance that you can be slightly off by?

 

Also, how could the chain length effect weather the chain jumps or not? Surely the chain length is dictated by the number of teeth on the chain ring, the cog, and how much play/adjustment you have in the sliding drop outs…?

 

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Pete.

 

Take some pics and post it here. 

It would be easier to help that way.

 

You chain line is addressed by playing with where you position the sprocket between your spacers on the freebody.. How much spacers on either side etc so it lines up with your front chain ring in as straight a line as possible.

[Pete Dip]

Take some pics and post it here. 

It would be easier to help that way.

 

You chain line is addressed by playing with where you position the sprocket between your spacers on the freebody.. How much spacers on either side etc so it lines up with your front chain ring in as straight a line as possible.

Thanks Popcorn,

I think my chain line is good. But I will try and post some pics anyway.

[Neill Du Toit]

Hi Henningvr,

I think it is straight…?

Was my first attempt at a SS conversion and set up.

 

It looks pretty straight. Ive looked at it from front, back, top...

If it is out, it can't be out by more then 2 or 3mm.

 

So the next question is:

What is the correct method to set up/check chain line?

http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/perfect-chainline-426690.html

 

I use this method to check my chain line. Not sure if this was mentioned already.

[Guest]

I had the same problem. The chain would jump only when I went up a steep hill or put extra pressure on the pedals. I installed a DMR chain tensioner and it has never happened again. As in the photo without a chain tensioner I think the chain does not engage on enough teeth, an issue which the tensioner resolves.

I do sometimes also get that loud crack noise but dont know what causes it.There is no chain slip or anything when the noise happens. It is scary though because it sounds like a link has snapped. I am using Rapide NW 34T front , Rapide SS chain.

 

 

[the nerd]

Read your post again... 

 

Try this: 

 

Remove the spacers off the rear wheel

have the sprocket on loose and pedal the bike on a work stand

The sprocket will move to the best chain line

mark on your freehub where the sprocket was and align your spacers to fit that line. 

 

Should be sorted. 

[JanJan]

Read your post again... 

 

Try this: 

 

Remove the spacers off the rear wheel

have the sprocket on loose and pedal the bike on a work stand

The sprocket will move to the best chain line

mark on your freehub where the sprocket was and align your spacers to fit that line. 

 

Should be sorted. 

 

I tried this method and in my case it didn't work. The accumalitive spaces on the chain itself made the rear sprocket follow a snake like pattern when turning.

 

@Pete

Try using a long square edge using your crankset's chainring bolting surface as reference. Just use a bit of maths and a vernier to determine the centreline based on the thicknesses of the chainring and sprocket.

 

I would say you at least need a straight tolerance of less than 1 mm to avoid those jumps and cracking sounds.

[Pete Dip]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replys, I will try both methods of getting up chain line. Will be interesting to see if and how far out mine is!

Pete.