pedal_bob Posted June 8, 2013 Share A little late to the party but look what turned up yesterday. Hopefully the rest of the stuff will arrive next week.http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/13181d2f-bc68-4092-8ddb-0c7f4e65307b_zpsef4a9146.jpg Really happy with it. If I had to be critical I'd say their paint shop needs to sort out their cleanliness. There are a few places where it looks like dust has settled onto the paint during the spray process. Are the other painted Pygas the same or is mine a Friday frame lol? awesme, Ledreyer and Ryanpmb 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamS2 Posted June 9, 2013 Share I'd appreciate if you guys could look through my parts to build up the OneTen29 before I place my orders in case I've missed something or spec'ed it incorrectly. DrivetrainShimano XT M785 10 Speed 2x10 Double Chainset Black 38-24Shimano XT M786 Direct Mount 2x10 Front Mech BlackShimano XT M771 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-36Shimano XT M780 10 Speed Trigger Shifter Front & Rear I-specShimano XT M786 SGS Shadow+ 10 Speed Rear Mech Long cageShimano XT Pressfit BB92-41AShimano XT HG94 HGX 10 Speed Chain BrakesShimano SLX M675 Disc Brake Front (RHS)Shimano SLX M675 Disc Brake Rear (LHS)Shimano SLX RT66 6 hole Disc Front Rotor 180mmShimano SLX RT66 6 hole Disc Rear Rotor 160mmShimano Adaptor SM-MA-F180P/P2 front 180mm postmount ForkRock Shox Revelation RCT3 29" Dual Air 1.5" 20mm Maxle Taper 2012 Black WheelsetsStans Arch EX or Flow / Hope Pro 2 EVO hubs 32 Hole OR alternativelyStans Arch EX or Flow / DT Swiss 350 hubs 32 Hole TyresFront Rocket Ron EVO Pacestar 2.25Rear Racing Ralph EVO Pacestar 2.25 Finishing KitCane Creek Headset - 40.ZS44 Short Cover TopCane Creek Headset – 40.IS52/40/H1 BottomSeatpost - Truvativ Stylo T30 Seatpost 25mm offset / 400mm – What diameter?Stem – Truvativ Style T20 90mm 5degBars - Truvativ Low Riserbar Stylo T30 700mm – blackHeadset SpacersGrips – TBDPedals – TBDSaddle – TBDBottle cage- TBD At the moment I'm not sure about the bar length. What bar widths are you guys mostly riding with? Is 700mm a little narrow for a 29er? Same with the stem length, I'm 6'2" and will have a size L frame. Any longer than 90mm would seem too long for this type of bike? Also, with the wide bars it may be better to go for a shorter stem (maybe 70-80mm) to speed up the steering a little. What do you guys think? L may be too small for you. I'm 6'3" and the xl fits me like a glove. Used a 90mm stem and 700mm bars. That acid green one on facebook is mine Weight was just under 12.6kg with pedals. You're gonna have an epic build with that kit. But go for the icetec rotors, they really are brilliant. Mine had a solid workout at Giba and I'm thrilled with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 10, 2013 Share L may be too small for you. I'm 6'3" and the xl fits me like a glove. Used a 90mm stem and 700mm bars. That acid green one on facebook is mine Weight was just under 12.6kg with pedals. You're gonna have an epic build with that kit. But go for the icetec rotors, they really are brilliant. Mine had a solid workout at Giba and I'm thrilled with them.Thanks for the comments Graham. I'm on the cusp of the L and XL for my height. I test rode the L in PMB and it felt fine. Good to hear your build came in at just under 12.6Kg. My target was to be no higher than 12.5Kg. The FB page say you had a full XT build. What did you use for the wheels, fit and finishing kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesme Posted June 10, 2013 Share Can I suggest, Try and get a test ride on a XL, even though the L was good, you will only know if it is right when you compare. G Thanks for the comments Graham. I'm on the cusp of the L and XL for my height. I test rode the L in PMB and it felt fine. Good to hear your build came in at just under 12.6Kg. My target was to be no higher than 12.5Kg. The FB page say you had a full XT build. What did you use for the wheels, fit and finishing kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 10, 2013 Share Can I suggest, Try and get a test ride on a XL, even though the L was good, you will only know if it is right when you compare. GToo late. The L is sitting here in front of me. Unfortunately, the XL wasn't available for testing when I was in PMB and no chance of testing any Pygas here as the nearest to test is 2600Kms away. After comparing the geo with my existing bike, top tube length is the same length, reach is 9mm more on the Pyga and my test ride I'm happy I have the correct size. The XL may fit well too but I was always advised to take the smaller frame if you're on the cusp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesme Posted June 10, 2013 Share welll, never mind then, BIG congrats, happy building, happy riding. G Too late. The L is sitting here in front of me. Unfortunately, the XL wasn't available for testing when I was in PMB and no chance of testing any Pygas here as the nearest to test is 2600Kms away. After comparing the geo with my existing bike, top tube length is the same length, reach is 9mm more on the Pyga and my test ride I'm happy I have the correct size. The XL may fit well too but I was always advised to take the smaller frame if you're on the cusp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamS2 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Thanks for the comments Graham. I'm on the cusp of the L and XL for my height. I test rode the L in PMB and it felt fine. Good to hear your build came in at just under 12.6Kg. My target was to be no higher than 12.5Kg. The FB page say you had a full XT build. What did you use for the wheels, fit and finishing kit? Cool, you must ride what fits you best in the end My bike is full XT, Hope hubs, Arch EX wheels, FSA headset, Funn stem, raceface bars, and a thompson elite seatpost (a real pavement special of parts!) I've been riding bikes all my life, and mtb since 1989, but this Pyga really is something else. I just need my fitness to catch up to the bike now... anthemic 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 11, 2013 Share Cool, you must ride what fits you best in the end My bike is full XT, Hope hubs, Arch EX wheels, FSA headset, Funn stem, raceface bars, and a thompson elite seatpost (a real pavement special of parts!) I've been riding bikes all my life, and mtb since 1989, but this Pyga really is something else. I just need my fitness to catch up to the bike now...You have a nice spec there. I can't wait for all my bits to arrive so I can start building. So far I have the frame, RS Rev RCT3 fork and the bottom part of the headset. the rest is in transit somewhere between me and Germany. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 17, 2013 Share So I'm getting close to completing my build and have a question or want some ideas. Anyone here running with front brake on the right hand-side (what's norm in SA?)? I run with my front on the right and find that I need to cross the rear dérailleur cable and rear brake hose cables on the down tube so brake cable goes to right side of headtube and rear dérailleur cable to left side of head tube? I tried crossing at the top of the head tube above the last set of cable guide lugs but it's very tight to cross there and I'm afraid it may eventually kink or crimp the cable or hose. Also tried crossing at bottom of the head tube before the first cable clamp but aesthetically it doesn't look that great. Crossing half way up looks even worse. Just interested to hear what others have done with a similar setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Latent Blue Posted June 17, 2013 Share A little late to the party but look what turned up yesterday. Hopefully the rest of the stuff will arrive next week.http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/13181d2f-bc68-4092-8ddb-0c7f4e65307b_zpsef4a9146.jpg Really happy with it. If I had to be critical I'd say their paint shop needs to sort out their cleanliness. There are a few places where it looks like dust has settled onto the paint during the spray process. Are the other painted Pygas the same or is mine a Friday frame lol?on the couch or it didn't happen Pipsqueak 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesme Posted June 17, 2013 Share Hi there I run my rear derailer and rear brake on the right, front derailer and front brake on the left.Have a similar problem, My rear derailer cable I ran on the left of the head tube, since it is a cable tight turns does not do well with it.my rear brake i then bend tight and ran it on the left of the head tube, It's hydraulic, it can accommodate tight turns better. Now the rear brake line needs to get to the left to go onto the back swing arm. so it needs to cross over, and the same for the rear derailer cable, needs to get to the right to go into the swing arm. To accomplish this I crossed the cables at the bottom of the down tube, right above the the BB. Looks neat enough. G So I'm getting close to completing my build and have a question or want some ideas. Anyone here running with front brake on the right hand-side (what's norm in SA?)? I run with my front on the right and find that I need to cross the rear dérailleur cable and rear brake hose cables on the down tube so brake cable goes to right side of headtube and rear dérailleur cable to left side of head tube? I tried crossing at the top of the head tube above the last set of cable guide lugs but it's very tight to cross there and I'm afraid it may eventually kink or crimp the cable or hose. Also tried crossing at bottom of the head tube before the first cable clamp but aesthetically it doesn't look that great. Crossing half way up looks even worse. Just interested to hear what others have done with a similar setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 17, 2013 Share Hi there I run my rear derailer and rear brake on the right, front derailer and front brake on the left.Have a similar problem, My rear derailer cable I ran on the left of the head tube, since it is a cable tight turns does not do well with it.my rear brake i then bend tight and ran it on the left of the head tube, It's hydraulic, it can accommodate tight turns better. Now the rear brake line needs to get to the left to go onto the back swing arm. so it needs to cross over, and the same for the rear derailer cable, needs to get to the right to go into the swing arm. To accomplish this I crossed the cables at the bottom of the down tube, right above the the BB. Looks neat enough. GYeah, that is where I am crossing mine at the moment. It's the neatest way I can find of doing it with my set-up. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/20130616_12371001_zps23a1060a.jpg If the cable guide lugs at the top of the down tube were just an inch lower one could comfortably do the cross over at the top just under the top tube / down tube intersection and would make it quite neat. In your case you could run the rear brake hose up the left side of the down tube, around the left side of the head tube to the brake lever on the right. Then for the rear dérailleur you run that up the right side of the down tube and cross to the left after the top cable guide lug under the top tube / down tube intersection then around the left of the head tube to the shifter on the right. That way you'd only have one cross over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesme Posted June 17, 2013 Share Hi ye, thats where I crossed mine also. I'm happy with how it looks, G Yeah, that is where I am crossing mine at the moment. It's the neatest way I can find of doing it with my set-up. http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa111/sklipikish/MTB/20130616_12371001_zps23a1060a.jpg If the cable guide lugs at the top of the down tube were just an inch lower one could comfortably do the cross over at the top just under the top tube / down tube intersection and would make it quite neat. In your case you could run the rear brake hose up the left side of the down tube, around the left side of the head tube to the brake lever on the right. Then for the rear dérailleur you run that up the right side of the down tube and cross to the left after the top cable guide lug under the top tube / down tube intersection then around the left of the head tube to the shifter on the right. That way you'd only have one cross over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 20, 2013 Share Did any of you have trouble mounting Schwalbe RoRo or RaRa tyres to the Arch EX rims? I just can't get mine on, not even the first side. Using plenty of soapy water, tyre levers and brute force but still the tyre won't go over the rim edge. So I'd like to try another tyre. Even if I got the tyre on eventually, I'd not feel comfortable with it as it would be impossible to do a trailside repair or tube fitment if necessary as I wouldn't be able to unmount / remount the tyre. How do the Maxxi Ikons or GEAX Saguaro fit? Are they also a impossibly tight fit? Any other tyre suggestions. Looking for something light and with similar characteristics to the RaRa / RoRo tyre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipsqueak Posted June 21, 2013 Share Are you putting the bead that's on the rim in the central "pit"? If you don't do this then it's tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesme Posted June 21, 2013 Share Question Who else is running a Shimano XT 3x10 setup, battling to get my gearing smooth across all the gears. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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