DJR Posted October 7, 2012 Posted October 7, 2012 I not so sure about the "egglifter under the bike" idea.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted October 7, 2012 Posted October 7, 2012 I not so sure about the "egglifter under the bike" idea. Its so that passing medics can reach something to scrape you off that rock you got a bit too attached to!
carbon29er Posted October 7, 2012 Posted October 7, 2012 I not so sure about the "egglifter under the bike" idea. Exactly. The frame is made to be ridden as it comes out of the factory. So why fiddle around trying to protect it?
ThePubSA Posted October 7, 2012 Posted October 7, 2012 Its so that passing medics can reach something to scrape you off that rock you got a bit too attached to!
DJR Posted October 7, 2012 Posted October 7, 2012 Its so that passing medics can reach something to scrape you off that rock you got a bit too attached to!I'm eating my words as I type Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 1
Delilah Posted October 8, 2012 Author Posted October 8, 2012 What a shock! It finally arrived AND it is the new CTD version, not the RP23 Captain Fastbastard Mayhem and carbon29er 2
awesme Posted October 8, 2012 Posted October 8, 2012 So when you building? G What a shock! It finally arrived AND it is the new CTD version, not the RP23 Delilah 1
splat Posted October 8, 2012 Posted October 8, 2012 What a shock! It finally arrived AND it is the new CTD version, not the RP23 Woo Hoo!Is that the final piece of the puzzle? Let the build begin! Delilah 1
Delilah Posted October 8, 2012 Author Posted October 8, 2012 what the 411 on the frame ?? Regarding the frame: the finish isn’t matt carbon, it is a very dark charcoal-coloured matt paint. Some people like to see signs of wear on their bikes, claiming it adds character. I like to have my frames properly protected and pristine for as long as possible. Therefore I’ve ordered a set of Frameskin clear (gloss) frame protection stickers – Link. As per Frameskin website: “Adhesion is optimal on gloss painted surfaces and bare metal frames (like titanium). Adhesion on anodised or matt finish frames is affected by the properties and texture of the surface finish, so results may vary.” At this stage I’ve pretty much made up my mind to have the frame clear coated – just waiting for the quote. So when you building? GWoo Hoo!Is that the final piece of the puzzle? Let the build begin! No Not the final piece, but almost there. Just waiting for the brake hose connector kit (ordered last week when TheV effect recurred) and the Frameskin kit (ordered 3 weeks ago ). Oh, and the clearcoat process will take 2-3 days.
carbon29er Posted October 8, 2012 Posted October 8, 2012 What a shock! It finally arrived AND it is the new CTD version, not the RP23 Awesome! Your frame has remote lock out cabling, consider swapping for the remote version before you mount it....has your Tallas got lock out (although not CTD)?
Delilah Posted October 9, 2012 Author Posted October 9, 2012 Awesome! Your frame has remote lock out cabling, consider swapping for the remote version before you mount it....has your Tallas got lock out (although not CTD)?Well, I've had remote lockout forks before, but found that I very rarely use the function. It also adds weight and extra cable clutter. For the rare occasions that lockout is required, the manual option is fine Back to the frame: Just got a call back from Focus Auto Body and it seems I'm stuck with the matt black paint after all In order to get a good quality clear coat on the frame, it needs to be sanded lightly - something that could potentially damage the sharpness of the Santa Cruz name and logos painted on the frame. If they just spray over the (unsanded) matt paint, the gloss coat is likely to flake after 6 months or so. Damnit
Dirtbreath Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 Back to the frame: Just got a call back from Focus Auto Body and it seems I'm stuck with the matt black paint after all In order to get a good quality clear coat on the frame, it needs to be sanded lightly - something that could potentially damage the sharpness of the Santa Cruz name and logos painted on the frame. If they just spray over the (unsanded) matt paint, the gloss coat is likely to flake after 6 months or so. Damnit Not at all. This is good news. Clearcoat on a new bike looks terrible. When it chips it is an eyesore and its much softer than the factory stuff so it will. Delilah 1
Delilah Posted October 11, 2012 Author Posted October 11, 2012 I just collected the clear decals from the PO. The decals are cut out on sheets, with any leftover areas cut into cable-rub dots. This pic shows the Tallboy kit (biggest sheet), the Fox fork kit (on right), two sets for XTR cranks (on left), printed instructions for the Tallboy kit, a squeegee and Frameskin sticker. Application instructions are on the back of each decal sheet. I waited for these before starting the build because application will be a PITA, but it helps a lot if you don't have cables and stuff in the way. Now, the only missing piece to the puzzle is the Jagwire brake hose connector kit... Any word, TheV?
CAAD4 Posted October 11, 2012 Posted October 11, 2012 Be sure to keep the leftover Fameskin bits as templates for other Tallboy riders... Delilah 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now