Your Enduro ride

[DR ◣◢]

Wait it out. The right frame will present itself. 

 

That frame doesn't look right though. More like a Shova/mbuzi mashup. Look where the rear shock mounts to the frame and then look at the pic below. Also the Mbuzi is 12x135mm rear. This looks like QR aka Shova

 

The reason the rear wheel is hitting the frame is because the rear shock has too much stroke. RP23 is the correct shock for that frame. 

 

[img[http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb3202104/p4pb3202104.jpg[/img]

[Hairy]

Wait it out. The right frame will present itself. 

 

That frame doesn't look right though. More like a Shova/mbuzi mashup. Look where the rear shock mounts to the frame and then look at the pic below. Also the Mbuzi is 12x135mm rear. This looks like QR aka Shova

 

The reason the rear wheel is hitting the frame is because the rear shock has too much stroke. RP23 is the correct shock for that frame. 

 

[img[http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb3202104/p4pb3202104.jpg[/img]

It was really the "first Mbuzi" frame, the production ones afterwards had thru axels and the 210x57 rear cans.

 

This is the pic when GM had it, rear can was a RS pearl

[DR ◣◢]

Cool. Quite a unique frame that. Thanks for clearing it up. I didn't follow the whole thing.

 

Sucks that it didn't work out. 

[Ryanpmb]

If I had to get a new Enduro ride this would be it. Niner ROS9, 140mm travel, and more than enough for SA enduros, and suitable for xcm and xco as well. No jokes:

 

 

 

Watch this space... may be a while... but keep watching...

[patches]

It was really the "first Mbuzi" frame, the production ones afterwards had thru axels and the 210x57 rear cans.

 

This is the pic when GM had it, rear can was a RS pearl

 

 

Unique, but an old school geometry. Unless it's for collectors purposes I'd say this is probably a blessing in disguise, as it now affords you the chance to get a frame with a more modern geometry.

[Hairy]

Unique, but an old school geometry. Unless it's for collectors purposes I'd say this is probably a blessing in disguise, as it now affords you the chance to get a frame with a more modern geometry.

unfortunately my budget is also old school ... .like back in the day when the Rondt was actually worth something old school

[Headshot]

unfortunately my budget is also old school ... .like back in the day when the Rondt was actually worth something old school

We will keep our eyes peeled. What size frame you after? 

[Hairy]

We will keep our eyes peeled. What size frame you after? 

Large please ... but this is a rule of thumb ... some of the "newer gen" frames run a longer horizontal TT.

 

Looking for something in the 600-610/15mm Horizontal TT

[PHIL BUYS SPORTS]

And so another build starts...

 

 

 

 

[Capricorn]

And so another build starts...

 

photo 4.JPG

 

very pretty!

[Nofearnofun]

And so another build starts...

 

photo 4.JPG

 

Inspired by Hakahana and our friend RM Slayer?

[Nofearnofun]

Wait it out. The right frame will present itself. 

 

That frame doesn't look right though. More like a Shova/mbuzi mashup. Look where the rear shock mounts to the frame and then look at the pic below. Also the Mbuzi is 12x135mm rear. This looks like QR aka Shova

 

The reason the rear wheel is hitting the frame is because the rear shock has too much stroke. RP23 is the correct shock for that frame. 

 

[img[http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb3202104/p4pb3202104.jpg[/img]

 

 

It was really the "first Mbuzi" frame, the production ones afterwards had thru axels and the 210x57 rear cans.

 

This is the pic when GM had it, rear can was a RS pearl

 

Maxxis, now that you mention Shova, I know there were a few Shova's sent out with a DHX4 can that also had a problem with the wheel saying hi to the seat tube... 

[DR ◣◢]

Maxxis, now that you mention Shova, I know there were a few Shova's sent out with a DHX4 can that also had a problem with the wheel saying hi to the seat tube... 

 

 

Jup. This Mbuzi is very much a tweaked Shova. The Shova was also never supposed to use the DHX4. They got shipped this way because Morewood had excess DHX4s and built a lot of extra Shovas on order. 

 

Not ideal since the shock simply didn't work. Even with the can shimmed.

[Skylark]

Jup. This Mbuzi is very much a tweaked Shova. The Shova was also never supposed to use the DHX4. They got shipped this way because Morewood had excess DHX4s and built a lot of extra Shovas on order.

 

Not ideal since the shock simply didn't work. Even with the can shimmed.

How does a company do that, it's not like the customers will never find out, were the customers warned?

[Letum911]

Hey guys. Not sure if my bike falls into the category of "Enduro", but online it is labeled as everything from XC to Trail to Adventure.

So here goes:

 

She just got a new 750mm Rapide bar with a 70mm stem. There's a 140mm Manitou in the front and 130 X Fusion in the back

 

Does anyone have a clue how hard I can push this bike before something brakes? This was my dad's bike, he rode it about 3 times in the last 2 years so I took it over from him. She will slowly be converted to a more trail style if this is possible?

[Capricorn]

Hey guys. Not sure if my bike falls into the category of "Enduro", but online it is labeled as everything from XC to Trail to Adventure.

So here goes:

20140926_125503.jpg

 

She just got a new 750mm Rapide bar with a 70mm stem. There's a 140mm Manitou in the front and 130 X Fusion in the back

 

Does anyone have a clue how hard I can push this bike before something brakes? 

 

it will only brake if you pull on the brake lever. Promise.

 

other than that fact, I think your ride will do just fine for very fast trail riding, even rock gardens. The limitation there is more suspension than anything else as evidenced by vrek light XC frames hammer very gnarly courses like PMB and other world cup XCO venues. However, exercise caution with drops and jumps as this is when the most sudden and severe loading a frame is subjected to, occurs.  

Some frame manufacturers actually provide guidance for maximum height of drops that their frames can manage. They are of course very conservative. 

 

Remember, a trail can be very rough without jumps and drops. I think you should be ok for a very long while. So ride, and ride hard. Get the max value out of the frame you have. But exercise some caution with height of drops and jumps, and keep doing your inspections after every wash to look for signs of cracks in the paint and/or frame. Areas to consider are where the top and down tubes meet the headtube, where the seat tube meets the top tube, and all joints around the bottom bracket.