Possible to true your wheels at home without botching it?

[Skylark]

Is it possible to true your rims at home without botching it?

ie DIY style with no wheel truing stand, just bike upside down and working with that and a spoke key.

 

If possible any tips so I don't f4ck up my wheels, Hope Hoops with ZTR Flows slightly out of true on the back rim, oh wait I just remembered that's quite a specialized technique on the back becuase of the different tension on each side to compensate for the forces on the drive side.... eish but its a R100 a wheel at the LBS and its virtually the only job I can't do on my bike

 

In my early days I did not have any success truing rims, haven't considered trying on these Hope Hoops but I have a spoke key and I'm keen to do it..

[Butterbean]

Your LBS is ripping you off. All the shops around me charge 60 a wheel.

 

But to answer your question, it is possible, although it'll take a lot of practice.

 

There is loads on Google for it, so that's the best place to start.

 

Good luck man!

[Vetseun]

I have got it right with minor wobbles.

[shaper]

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Wheel-Truing-on-the-bike-with-a-marker-/

 

 

[droo]

It's possible, but it takes practice. The best way that I've found of checking where you are is to use zip ties on the chainstays for reference. Zip in place, then cut them off to line up with the furthest part of the wobble.

[Skylark]

Ja I thought R100 a pop was a bit expensive, must ask around there's a few other LBS in George. But that whole speech on the back rim with the different tension on each side seems a bit difficult, or is that only really difficult when doing the initial wheel build?

[Butterbean]

Ja I thought R100 a pop was a bit expensive, must ask around there's a few other LBS in George. But that whole speech on the back rim with the different tension on each side seems a bit difficult, or is that only really difficult when doing the initial wheel build?

 

As far as I understand, once the wheel is built the tension on the the spokes is what keeps the rim true.

 

All you're going to do while truing, is to adjust the tension by turning the nipple of the out of tension spoke.

 

II can't really see how this will have to change for the drive/non drive side for the rear.

 

Although I may be completely wrong.

[Thomo]

Very possible and rewarding, but can also be very frustrating.

R100 per wheel for truing does sound a bit steep, so shop around.

How often do your wheels need truing.?

Whatever you pay may be money well spent.

[Johan Bornman]

Very easy. Turn your bike upside down and create a guide of sorts - use presstick, pegs, sellotape, whatever.

 

Rule no 1: Only tighten spokes, never loosen. Why? Spokes cannot tighten themselves but they can come loose. Thereofore you only correct what went wront, not creating new issues.

 

Rule no 2: Tighten spokes opposite to the bulge. In other words, you are always pulling the bulge back.

 

Rule no 3: if there is a dent (the opposite of a bulge, not real dent), then you change your perspective and view it as a bulge on the other side and refer to rule no 2:.

[Tankman]

There you go! JB's the man!

[jugheaddave]

I want jb to check my wheels some time. Only prob he lives miles awsy!

[Li Mu Bai]

as JB says, piece of piss.

The mysticism surrounding all things 'bike' generated by shops is what keeps them in business.

wheel truing only gets slightly complicated when nipples are hidden within rims (eg carbon aero) and you need a specific tool to access them.

I use cable ties on the seat stays to determine where the wobble is, and by tightening the nipple on the alternate spokes the rim is pulled back into position. usually takes less that 3 mins and keeps lunch money in my pocket.

[SwissVan]

As JB says

 

Something to keep in mind while trying this:

 

1. Use the correct size spoke spanner, often you get those multi spanners with more than one size and it is easy to use one that is slightly to big which will eventually cause the "nipple" to wear (round the corners). Once the nipple is worn then you are going to struggle to tighten / loosen it.

 

2. In the beginning and until you get the hang of it tighten in small increments at a time (quarter turn) and check the effect on the rim after each turn.

 

3. Check the nipple is not seized before you try tighten it, do this by gently trying to tighten it and if it feels like it wont move assume its seized. Tightening a seized nipple will just damage it as per #1.

 

4.If it feels seized try turn it in carefully the other direction, but as above gently and don't allow the spanner to slip. You can try a penetrating fluid and a few gentle taps (as in with a solid object to try crack the bond that is holding it) to try loosen it. If all fails a small long nose type vice grip usually does the trick... but its not much good for the nipples well being.

 

Maybe JB can reveal a secret or 2 about loosening seized nipples

[M L]

Also have a out of true back wheel. So thanks for all the info, off to go buy the spoke tensioner.

[Skylark]

Very easy. Turn your bike upside down and create a guide of sorts - use presstick, pegs, sellotape, whatever.

 

Rule no 1: Only tighten spokes, never loosen. Why? Spokes cannot tighten themselves but they can come loose. Thereofore you only correct what went wront, not creating new issues.

 

Rule no 2: Tighten spokes opposite to the bulge. In other words, you are always pulling the bulge back.

 

Rule no 3: if there is a dent (the opposite of a bulge, not real dent), then you change your perspective and view it as a bulge on the other side and refer to rule no 2:.

 

So basically if a wheel is built correctly using good quality components it will only ever go untrue if a spoke becomes loose that allows the rim to wander?

 

And the only time any serious wobbles can be induced is by a significant impact(or lots of loose spokes and relatively minor impact) that is able to overcome the combined integrity of the wheel and then the overall failure of the rim's trueness occurs - Rim in the bin scenario?

 

So it appears with a good quality wheel thats well built doing the minor maintenance spoke tightening to maintain trueness is well within the realm of DIY mechanics?

 

And doing regular wheel spoke maintenance will also maintain the sturdiness of the wheel and help guard against the rim being susceptible to being knocked untrue?

[Big H*]

Very easy. Turn your bike upside down and create a guide of sorts - use presstick, pegs, sellotape, whatever.

 

Rule no 1: Only tighten spokes, never loosen. Why? Spokes cannot tighten themselves but they can come loose. Thereofore you only correct what went wront, not creating new issues.

 

Rule no 2: Tighten spokes opposite to the bulge. In other words, you are always pulling the bulge back.

 

Rule no 3: if there is a dent (the opposite of a bulge, not real dent), then you change your perspective and view it as a bulge on the other side and refer to rule no 2:.

 

A cable tie works well as the guide. Use a whiteboard marker to keep track of what you do. Very important is to use. Good fitting and good quality nipple spanner and establish very clearly which way to turn to tight.