Capricorn Posted July 8, 2013 Posted July 8, 2013 Mike knows how to pack it.... and how to make brake lines too... so if you ever need BF Goodridge custom lines or pieces... Mike is your man. I got the RBF 600 in the post, no problem. Thanks for the recomms V12.
Capricorn Posted July 8, 2013 Posted July 8, 2013 Just started running a set of Avid Code R's and I must say I really really like them on the MOTO ... they have claimed one victim though who tested the bike and found out very quickly that the brakes are rather effective and that if you go down and the MOTO comes down ontop of you, you will end up with rather heavily bruised hip. which year model Code Rs? I ask because IIRC, the MY 2010 and earlier tended to be pretty grabby. 2011 onward had more modulation, and hte overall package has become quite a bit lighter. And for good measure, the diference between Codes and X0-Trails.. seriously minimal. trails have silly amounts of braking force.
Hairy Posted July 8, 2013 Posted July 8, 2013 which year model Code Rs? I ask because IIRC, the MY 2010 and earlier tended to be pretty grabby. 2011 onward had more modulation, and hte overall package has become quite a bit lighter. And for good measure, the diference between Codes and X0-Trails.. seriously minimal. trails have silly amounts of braking force.Not 100% sure, but I think they are 2010's and mated to a 205mm disc upfront with a 185mm disc out back ..... they do feel good on the trail though and have not been grabby in any way. Capricorn 1
Spoke101 Posted July 8, 2013 Posted July 8, 2013 (edited) Just my 2c, from working in a LBS Avid had a problem with a batch of brakes where the supplier in the east? I don't know where, used some dodge magnesium for the brake housing. This resulted in the DOT fluid reacting with the magnesium and producing air bubbles. They actually were recalling the brakes and giving out new ones.As well as the pad adjust rotating past the stop to easily and thus breaking the seal and needing new internals.But the new ones if done right and looked after are good.But for me Formula R1 Racing all the way. Edited July 8, 2013 by Spoke101
Hairy Posted July 9, 2013 Posted July 9, 2013 Just my 2c, from working in a LBS Avid had a problem with a batch of brakes where the supplier in the east? I don't know where, used some dodge magnesium for the brake housing. This resulted in the DOT fluid reacting with the magnesium and producing air bubbles. They actually were recalling the brakes and giving out new ones.As well as the pad adjust rotating past the stop to easily and thus breaking the seal and needing new internals.But the new ones if done right and looked after are good.But for me Formula R1 Racing all the way.Could you please advise a little more on exactly which Avids it was?
Bobbo_SA Posted July 9, 2013 Posted July 9, 2013 Interesting statement from Magura from a bikerumor article: "Boiling oil, that is a compressible fluid, is even worse, because the brake can fail completely. This can be caused by constant dragging and/or steep gradients, pads with low friction coefficient. DOT fluid has a higher boiling point than mineral oil, but mineral oil will keep the boiling point for ever, whereas DOT attracts water over time, even through seals (and its boiling point) will decrease over time and will be worse than with mineral oil. That’s also the reason why brake fluid on cars has to be changed every 2 years."
rouxtjie Posted July 9, 2013 Posted July 9, 2013 Could you please advise a little more on exactly which Avids it was?Probably the same ones I had....Elixirs CR's, the Dot5 fluid chewed something up on the inside.
rouxtjie Posted July 9, 2013 Posted July 9, 2013 Interesting statement from Magura from a bikerumor article: "Boiling oil, that is a compressible fluid, is even worse, because the brake can fail completely. This can be caused by constant dragging and/or steep gradients, pads with low friction coefficient. DOT fluid has a higher boiling point than mineral oil, but mineral oil will keep the boiling point for ever, whereas DOT attracts water over time, even through seals (and its boiling point) will decrease over time and will be worse than with mineral oil. That’s also the reason why brake fluid on cars has to be changed every 2 years."Very interesting....
V12man Posted July 9, 2013 Posted July 9, 2013 Interesting statement from Magura from a bikerumor article: "Boiling oil, that is a compressible fluid, is even worse, because the brake can fail completely. This can be caused by constant dragging and/or steep gradients, pads with low friction coefficient. DOT fluid has a higher boiling point than mineral oil, but mineral oil will keep the boiling point for ever, whereas DOT attracts water over time, even through seals (and its boiling point) will decrease over time and will be worse than with mineral oil. That’s also the reason why brake fluid on cars has to be changed every 2 years." Mineral oil just boils at very low temps... far below what can be achieved by ordinary cars fairly easily. The benefit of using it is that the viscosity is higher than brake fluid, and seals don't have to be as good as with brake fluid. What the users of mineral oil don't seem to have studied (or more likely don't want to publish) is the rate at which brake fluid will absorb water from the air - and it is much lower than you think - so a drop in wet boil temps of DOT3.5 fluid is in the 4 - 8% annually is what happens (just exposing it to air full time) - much less than most people think. The prime contamination spot for brake fluid/mineral oil is piston seals - which combined with water under pressure creates a problem (and don't think that your pressure washer is the only culprit - in a car, water from wet roads is pretty high pressure stuff at speed, and driving through a puddle at fair speed is a disaster for brakes - fortunately in a car they are fairly well protected mostly - but have a look at the rear brakes on some older Alfa's - centrally mounted on the rear driveshafts - and they are a nightmare - always giving trouble) The fact that mineral oil is not hygroscopic is useful - but only for its economics and as a sales tactic - not for it's efficiency - get a drop of water past the seal on an XT brake, get it hot, and it WILL fail - just as quickly as an Avid brake. Getting mineral oil past it's boiling dry point is pretty easy - why do you think Shimano have put so much effort into designing their discs to shed heat (and they have done a good job so far - look at their new 140mm ice-tech road discs... clever....) RockCoach 1
Jokerman923 Posted July 9, 2013 Posted July 9, 2013 Your problem is a easy one to fix hey STEP 1 - Remove your current brakesSTEP 2 - Fit M A G U R A STEP 3 - Now you have brakes from guys that's been doing Hydraulics for over a 100 years
jcza Posted July 16, 2013 Posted July 16, 2013 FAO - V12man. Xmas has come early this year!! Here you go, bargain of the year. Captain Fastbastard Mayhem and V12man 2
V12man Posted July 16, 2013 Posted July 16, 2013 And there is more.... Let me know where I can pick those up and drop off some beer... Now I have to learn how to do some framebuilding to turn my old SS into a disk brake bike with paragon sliders... Hairy 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now