Upgrading to Full Carbon road bike.

[Winstonian1984]

Been riding a 11.5kg road bike with shimano 2300 groupset (compact crank and 12-25 cassette,size 58cm.) My neighbour was kin enough to let me take his KTM Strada 5000 ( 7.4kg, Compact crank and 11-23 Cassette, Size 55cm).

 

I found that going over bridges that go over the n1 etc,were much more of a struggle than usual, but on the flats and downhills it was much quicker than my bike. I have a 50km route that I do and bettered my PB by 3 minutes.

 

Could this be the drive train setup, as almost everyone I have spoken to said going up will be easier and I wont descend as quickly.

 

Lastly, what should one look out for when buying second hand carbon? Any advice would be much appreciated.

['Dale]

Performance in cycling has mostly to do with power-weight ratio.

Losing 3-4 kgs with a lighter road bike assisted your power- weight ratio.

 

When buying carbon, take note of crash reports by the Seller.

Also look for cracks especially at high stress areas. Use a microscope if possible.

[Madlight]

What he said plus that a carbon frame will be much stiffer and thus have better power transfer and thus have more "kick"

[shaper]

With regard to your ride the frame size is different (smaller 55 v 58) so power transfer may have been better. You should go for a bike fit to see what size frame you require. You were also riding a 11-23 cassette as opposed to your 11-25, so climbing and hills will be a little more difficult, assuming you were using the granny cog.

 

That said, the lighter the better as Dale has pointed out and if buying a used frame make sure you can inspect it to be sure there is no damage from crashes.

[Winstonian1984]

Thanks for the feedback. Is it fairly easy to spot damages/cracks that were repaired?

['Dale]

Thanks for the feedback. Is it fairly easy to spot damages/cracks that were repaired?

 

Some can be hairline or under the paint.

Trusting the seller does come into play.

Some buyers ask for it to be checked by a LBS before sealing the deal as a condition to purchase.

[Caerus]

Performance in cycling has mostly to do with power-weight ratio.

Losing 3-4 kgs with a lighter road bike assisted your power- weight ratio.

 

When buying carbon, take note of crash reports by the Seller.

Also look for cracks especially at high stress areas. Use a microscope if possible.

Where to find a portable microscope ? Possibly a magnifying glass rather

[The Anteater]

Could this be the drive train setup, as almost everyone I have spoken to said going up will be easier and I wont descend as quickly.

I wouldn't rule that out. 11-23 will make hills etc. feel harder (like you noted), but you may still be going a little bit quicker, simply through trying to maintain your normal cadence. It will also allow you to go a bit faster on the downhills.

 

Another possible contributor to your faster ride might be that the wheel hubs and bearings on your friend's bike are better than yours, giving less friction. He could also have lower rolling resistance tires (or the pressures could be different to what you normally ride).

['Dale]

Where to find a portable microscope ? Possibly a magnifying glass rather

 

Tongue-in-cheek intended by me

Grrrrr

[Cippo]

What is your current weight and what kind of budget are you looking at spending? What are your goals like in terms of where do you wanna go with your cycling. Are you planning on doing short funrides or the century variety? Lots of secondhand bargains but would the bike's geometry suit you. Example, some people ride a race orientated geometry where as others prefer a more relaxed setup. Buying the wrong bike can be costly as resale is always at a loss.

[Caerus]

Tongue-in-cheek intended by me

Grrrrr

Ditto

[Winstonian1984]

What is your current weight and what kind of budget are you looking at spending? What are your goals like in terms of where do you wanna go with your cycling. Are you planning on doing short funrides or the century variety? Lots of secondhand bargains but would the bike's geometry suit you. Example, some people ride a race orientated geometry where as others prefer a more relaxed setup. Buying the wrong bike can be costly as resale is always at a loss.

 

-My current weight is 93 kgs(at 1.95m tall).

-Budget will be between 18-25k.

-I much prefer doing rides of 80km plus and plan to do quite a few of the PPA rides.

-My first goal is to do a 3:45 argus next year (Did 4:15 from GC group)

 

I do plan on doing lots of enquiring WRT geometry and set up that is best suited to me.

Edited March 27, 2014 by Winstonian1984

[Winstonian1984]

Some can be hairline or under the paint.

Trusting the seller does come into play.

Some buyers ask for it to be checked by a LBS before sealing the deal as a condition to purchase.

 

Would it be a better idea to be a bit more patient and purchase new as opposed to second hand?

[Wannabe]

With a budget of between 18 -25K, you can buy yourself a very decent bike NEW.

[obree]

1.95m tall on a size 58cm .......try something bigger

I am 1.91 on a size 60cm with 180mm cranks

[Cippo]

Firstly book yourself an Ergofit with Dr. Swart at Science to Sport or Renay Goustra at Epic Bike shop. They could best advise you on what bike to buy. At your height you would probably need a Spez Roubaix, Canmondale Synapse or Scott CR1. Don't overlook Cannondale CAAD 10 even though its aluminium. You have a nice budget there.